Ques for Tony Latham

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Members sought clarification from Tony Latham regarding specific measurements and construction details from his teardrop trailer book, particularly around ceiling cutbacks, wall heights, and spar dimensions. Tony confirmed that the 2 1/8" ceiling cutback allows for spars, headliner, and glue lines, and that spars should be 1"x2". He advised not to trim the exterior wall at the galley to match the interior wall, emphasizing the need for the exterior sheathing to remain at the correct height...
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How thick is the wood you used for the panel?
How deep is the electrical panel box...it looks like its about 1" deep in the picture and about 8" high and 2' wide.
It's 7" x 16" and 2" deep. I used 1/8" Baltic for the face.

The Aili meter is much better than the one I used for the book. They are about $40.

Tony
 
I have a jackery 1000v2 that I plan to use. I am working with a friend who is an electrician and he suggested putting the fuse block in the galley close to the jackery. I can switch out the battery later if needed but it made sense since I already had it. This has been an exciting and definitely challenging project. I'm so glad I took this journey - thank you for all your help along the way.
 
I think it's cool you took it on. Where will you put the Jackery?

I assume you'll still run wires to the galley in the event you put a battery back there?

Tony
I will put the jackery in the galley either in the far left cubby or the middle cubby. I'm leaning towards the same place you put your battery. When I'm not using the camper, I will disconnect the jackery and bring it inside the house.

The jackery will connect to the fuse block which I hope to put on the upper bulkhead above the counter in the galley (directly above the battery).
 
That leaves room for a 1/16" glue line top and bottom. And yes, the spars are 1" wide by 2" high.

Tony
Tony, Sorry for the redundancy but I’m easily confused. The offsets in your design are using ceiling spars that are a true 1 x 2” (rough cut) or for a nominal 1 x 2” (3/4 x 1-1/2”)?
 
Hello again - I noticed that you fiberglassed the top of the teardrop and then cut out the hole for the maxi fan. I'm wondering why you didn't cut the hole for the maxi fan before fiberglassing the top of the teardrop?
 
Hello again - I noticed that you fiberglassed the top of the teardrop and then cut out the hole for the maxi fan. I'm wondering why you didn't cut the hole for the maxi fan before fiberglassing the top of the teardrop?

Well... I dunno. It just seemed like the proper work flow at the time. Either way will work of course.

When I installed mine, I moved it towards the passenger side by an inch to make room for the solar panel. I just replace that panel, and the new one is an inch wider. It worked okay, since I was able to cut the panel. Buty you may want to place it about two inches off the centerline.

CAJ7Mi3.jpg


Tony
 
Well... I dunno. It just seemed like the proper work flow at the time. Either way will work of course.

When I installed mine, I moved it towards the passenger side by an inch to make room for the solar panel. I just replace that panel, and the new one is an inch wider. It worked okay, since I was able to cut the panel. Buty you may want to place it about two inches off the centerline.

CAJ7Mi3.jpg


Tony
Ok, thank you! I'm also wondering how far away the third break light is from the hurricane hinge. I want to make sure I leave enough room for the hinge to open properly.
 
I'm also wondering how far away the third break light is from the hurricane hinge.

Good question. 2" and you'll be good.

620YUqL.jpg


Just keep in mind, you may want to move it off an inch to the passenger side to better fit your solar panel, too. I had to trim my replacement panel a bit, which worked fine.

Tony
 

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