Questions on putting in windows

[meach4x4-TNT]

I ordered a couple of 30"x15" slider windows to put in my cargo trailer. I'm planning on using this procedure:

1) Put masking tape on the Luan over the cut mark to minimize the tear-out

2) Mark out the hole 30 1/4" by 15 1/4" on the masking tape.

3) Drill a half inch hole somewhere just inside the cut line.

4) Use a scroll saw with a coarse metal blade, orbital turned off, and go towards the cut line, then turn and go to a corner. Speed?

5) Radius the corners, and cut continuous around to the point where I first met the cut line.

6) Install the window!

I considered putting some spacer in between the skin and the interior Luan, but after talking with the factory installer, he says if I position the window between two uprights (1st and 3rd), as I plan to do, I won't need to do anything, since the window frame will span from one upright to the other, and there will be one upright (2nd) that was sawed off that will space the wall in the middle. There should be good structural integrity and no bending in of the wall by the frame. The window frame should tie the 2nd upright to the 1st and 3rd.

Any suggestions? Problems?

Gil

 

[michiganflipper]

I screwed small 1x4 in around my windows befoe instaling them just to tie it all back together again good luck on your project

 

[digimark]

I'm trying to visualize -- will the windows be installed vertically so the 15" dimension will fit between the 16" steel studs, or horizontally? (Cutting a stud and fitting the window between the studs on either side.)

I would think you'd want to put in a header above the window and a sill below even though the window will mostly fill the gap. It ties the floating up and lower "loose" studs (created when you cut through the second stud) to the 1st and 3rd studs. In traditional house framing it would carry the load down from above, but even if that's not an issue, you'd have to worry about flex when someone pushes on the window or just above/below it.

 

[meach4x4-TNT]

I screwed small 1x4 in around my windows befoe instaling them just to tie it all back together again good luck on your project

good input, thanks!

 

[meach4x4-TNT]

I'm trying to visualize -- will the windows be installed vertically so the 15" dimension will fit between the 16" steel studs, or horizontally? (Cutting a stud and fitting the window between the studs on either side.)

I would think you'd want to put in a header above the window and a sill below even though the window will mostly fill the gap. It ties the floating up and lower "loose" studs (created when you cut through the second stud) to the 1st and 3rd studs. In traditional house framing it would carry the load down from above, but even if that's not an issue, you'd have to worry about flex when someone pushes on the window or just above/below it.

The windows are 30" wide and 15" tall, with sliders. They will be installed horizontally, which means one stud in the middle will be sawed off below the window. The trailer frame header will be just above the cut opening, and that will support the load above the window. The two sides of the window frame will be very close to the studs, and may span them. If they don't span them, I'll add some 1x3 fir around them to solidify the mount.

At this point, my biggest concern is cutting through the center stud. I don't want to shake the walls to death with the scroll saw. I suppose I'll just have to grin and bear it, eh?

 

[Nitroxjunkie71]

I used an air powered cut off wheel to cut the aluminum siding when I put my windows in and it worked great. I also used a 4 1/2 inch angle grinder with a cut off wheel to cut the support stud with no movement of the wall support. To cut the interior luan I reinstalled the interior paneling and traced the outline of the window from the outside to the backside of luan then removed it to make my cuts.

My dad and I also built up between the walls on both ends of the windows for support.

Good luck. It's a very rewarding project I can tell ya. Sure you could pay someone to do the job for ya but that takes all the fun out of converting. IMHO!

 

[meach4x4-TNT]

... Good luck. It's a very rewarding project I can tell ya. Sure you could pay someone to do the job for ya but that takes all the fun out of converting. IMHO!

Wow, excellent job!

I am going to change my approach to match what you did. I notice you used steel frame above and below the window cutout. Did you weld it in? Or, use screws?

Wells Cargo told me when they install them on their 5x8 trailers, they put the window cutout just below the top rail (about 4" above where yours are.) How high are your sides? Mine are only 5' 6".

Do you have any finished shots? (Inside and out would be great!)

Excellent shots, very motivating. You've convinced me to wait until the windows are in to mount the bed, since I'd just have to take the rails off to do the windows and insulation. Backup... Rethink... Better than redo!

Gil

 

[Nitroxjunkie71]

Wow, excellent job!

Thanks Gil

I am going to change my approach to match what you did. I notice you used steel frame above and below the window cutout. Did you weld it in? Or, use screws?

I have the Z studs in my walls and the 1x1" O.D steel tubing fit just right. I did weld it in but brackets could be made to do the same thing. I removed the outer screws and shimmed the siding before I welded.

Wells Cargo told me when they install them on their 5x8 trailers, they put the window cutout just below the top rail (about 4" above where yours are.) How high are your sides? Mine are only 5' 6".

The nice thing about doing it yourself is that you can put them anywhere you want to but I am sure they would as well if a move was requested. I just eyeballed it to find the location I liked. My dad had his put in on his new trailer and they are down from the top of the wall a bit but the trailer is a lot bigger than mine. My walls are 5' 3" from bottom to the start of radius and just over 5' on the inside.

Do you have any finished shots? (Inside and out would be great!) Excellent shots, very motivating.

I have several shots of it but only a few during construction if that's what you are looking for. Those shots are all in my album.

You've convinced me to wait until the windows are in to mount the bed, since I'd just have to take the rails off to do the windows and insulation. Backup... Rethink... Better than redo!

At least you figured that part out, I sure didn't. I have taken mine apart several times since the window install/insulation project. Once to wire in fender lights, once for the electrical, and once for the porch light with one more once to go Windows, Wiring (including porch light), insulation right down the line.

Have fun and please, Post Pictures!

 

[Prem-TNT]

Gil,

My windows were small (12" x 18" vertical sliders) and fit in between ribs so I didn't have to reinforce them with headers (wood or metal). The clamp ring really stiffened the wall.

HOWEVER, I put wide masking tape on the outside skin to avoid scratching the paint with the jigsaw/scroll saw. VERY IMPORTANT. I drew the cutout on the masking tape. I used a longer-than-normal, Bosch metal-cutting blade that made a beautiful cut all the way through the interior wood paneling. Worked beautifully.

Good luck,

Prem

 

[meach4x4-TNT]

Have fun and please, Post Pictures!

Yes, I am having tons o' fun so far, and I will definately keep posting when there is progress.

Today, I goofed off, and went Jeeping and hicking in Dixie National Forest. Beautiful day for it. Lots of color in the hills. I did buy some foam for the seat cushion/bed mattress. Target had a killer deal on memory foam. Now, I just need to get the hd foam for the base.

Stay tuned!

Gil

 

[meach4x4-TNT]

Gil,

VERY IMPORTANT. I drew the cutout on the masking tape. I used a longer-than-normal, Bosch metal-cutting blade that made a beautiful cut all the way through the interior wood paneling. Worked beautifully.

Good luck,

Prem

What type blade? I have long metal with medium teeth and long wood with fine teeth. I was thinking I could use the metal blade to do the Luan, the Aluminum, and the frame upright. Right?

Gil

 

[meach4x4-TNT]

Doh! I now read that you used a metal blade, as I had planned. Shoulda read your words better before I asked.

 

[Prem-TNT]

Yup! That's how I do it.

Prem

 

[meach4x4-TNT]

Yup! That's how I do it.

Prem

Now, I'm just sitting here semipatiently waiting the UPS guy to show up with my windows!

 

[michiganflipper]

I cut my windows out with Aviation Snips (for the sides)and for the wall supports I used a sawjall with a metal cutting blade

 

[riggerneer]

I'm looking for windows and a door for my 5x8 cargo conversion. Any help out there?

 

[Prem-TNT]

riggerneer,

You may want to build your own door and frame (ask BC). Or, you can use a regular RV door and cut the door and its frame way shorter to fit. I have a 7' x 12' cargo trailer and I had to cut a few inches off of the 6' RV door I bought. Here are the BEFORE and AFTER photos:

If a teardrop door will do, check with Grant at www.teardrops.net (I just got edge molding from him.)

For windows, if you want them to be small and fit between the ribs (metal studs) without doing major surgery, Ebay is where I got mine. 12' x 18" is good. 12" x 24" might come down too low on your trailer's short walls. Just type in "RV window 12" in the Ebay search space. (Sometimes they aren't for sale for a week or two.) I got mine for about $65 each plus shipping. They were new. You can check with your local RV repair shops, but that usually comes up dry or super retail (like double Ebay) if they order them for you.

Good?

Prem

 

[meach4x4-TNT]

I'm looking for windows and a door for my 5x8 cargo conversion. Any help out there?

I ended up buying windows from Wells Cargo factory for my 5x8 V front. They are 15x30 with sliders and screens. I opted to go with them because our last TTT was a T@b, and we loved having a lot of windows in them. With two of the 15x30 windows and a vent fan, we get adequate light inside. Certainly, it is a lot less than the T@b, but it is enough to feel like you are not holed up in a cave.

Putting in the larger windows required welding in crossmembers on the verticle frame members to tie them together. I no longer have my welder, but I found a local portable welder guy to do it for $30 after I did all the cutting and fitting of the crossmember.

Wells Cargo also included a couple of spacers they build when they put these windows in their trailers. They made it easier to install the windows, and held the inner and outer walls apart. If you want to see the process and final results, you can go to my build thread which is in the Cargo Conversions forum under "My project a cargo trailer for back road camping"

I can't help you on a door, because mine had an RV door from the factory. It looks like Prem got that covered, as usual.

Gil

 

[Prem-TNT]

Gil,

A T@B???

Was it inferior to your cargo trailer? Why did you switch? (Other than for offroading...)

Prem

P.S. "...holed up in a cave." LOL My daughters call my cargo trailer "The Dad Cave." With those two small windows, my friend Guy calls it my "horse trailer."

 

[meach4x4-TNT]

Gil,

A T@B???

Was it inferior to your cargo trailer? Why did you switch? (Other than for offroading...)

Prem

The T@b was a really nice trailer, but it wasn't built rugged enough to do much rough road. You can modify one to do pretty good on forest roads, but it involves a lot of things like remounting the overhead cabinets, heater, air conditioner, etc. Whenever I used mine on dirt roads, it was a slow go.

We sold the T@b 2 years go when we decided to hit the road for a year. We used the cash to help pay for a '96 Dolphin motorhome. After a year on the road, we settled in our St. George home, sold the motor home, and bought the cargo trailer.

Advantages of a converted travel trailer:

1) Initial cost ($2,000 vs, $14,000) so if you wad it up on a mountain road, you are a lot better off. Also, if you are going to have to modify it anyway (see 2 and 3 below) it is better to start with a blank canvas.

2) Weight (850 lbs. vs 1,700 lbs) Sure, you have to add a lot of stuff to the cargo trailer to get camp ready, but if you are careful, you can keep it down below 1,200 lbs. After putting in just the items you need for the particular camping you are going to do on an individual trip, you will be quite a bit lighter.

3) Rugged construction. The T@b is not built for off road, or even lots of miles of washboard gravel road. It is too low and too fancy to keep from getting lots of rock dings and dents, that are not repairable with the T@b wall construction (glued up alumafibre walls.)

4) Versatility. Where the T@b is purpose built for short term camping on highways and byways, it is not a hauler. I have a goal for the cargo conversion to be able to take the bed out, and be able to haul cargo. Even with the bed in, I can carry a load of 2x4s, and lay a few sheets of plywood on top of the bed. Another way a cargo is more versatile is you can build it for how you use it. We didn't do a lot of cooking inside our T@b, although it did have the galley inside. The problem is you really don't want to fry up a bunch of bacon in a trailer that has the fuzzy carpet on the walls next to the stove. As a result, we did most of our cooking outdoors.

I bought my T@b fully loaded, with the queen bed U shaped setee, L galley, air, furnace, 12 v fridge, front window, screen door (joke), and extra room built by Paha Que. If I was doing it over, I'd go for the less expensive clamshell model, with the outdoor cooking (traditional teardrop style), 12 v fridge, no heat, no air, and no other options. The reason is that the furnace and air they put in the T@b is overkill. Plus, the furnace needs to have voltage to run. After a few days, the heat stops working. It would be less expensive to install a catalytic heater, and run with no drain on the batteries. As for air, it is silly to haul around an air conditioner in the winter. I'd rather use a portable unit in the summer, and then leave it home in the winter.

Gil