Removable Foamie camper. New Build

zzzizxz

Advanced Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2018
Posts
86
So, I think I have a plan that will work for a foamie camper shell that will easily remove from my utility trailer if I ever want to haul anything. I know, the holy grail and all, but I think I really have it!

I am a SAHD, and drive a 1981 Pontiac Bonneville Safari station wagon as my DD, and as my TV. We try to take at least one major road trip every year, or a couple minor road trips if we can't get a big one in. So far, we have visited 36 states in the station wagon, and are planning on visiting all 49 before we're done, (maybe even Hawaii...)
When we had 2 and 3 kids, they sat in the middle seat of the wagon, and we had the whole back for storage. We just had #4 in the fall though, so now we have two kids in the way back, and two in the middle.
This really cuts down on our storage room, especially for big things like the cooler, canopies, tents, etc... Also, we now have luggage for 4 kids and 1-2 adults, which adds up.

The most reasonable course of action is to build or buy a teardrop camper to give us more storage room, and also to let us camp in even more locations and conditions. Given the fact that my station wagon only has the Olds 307 motor, which was never a powerhouse, I was limited by the amount of weight I could reasonably pull up a mountain with a loaded station wagon. This is mostly what drew me to the idea of building myself a foamie.
After reading a BUNCH of builds on here, and seeing the results, I told my wife about it, and she was cool with me building one.
First issue to address was the trailer. I wanted an all-aluminum trailer for a number of reasons. First, being weight. I wanted this trailer to be as long and as wide as I could, yet still be super light. Second, I didn't want to have to mess with rust and rust protection of the steel, or wood rotting and trying to prevent my floor from getting wet. I already have a 36-year old car that I have to deal with rust issues with, and I didn't want a trailer doing the same.

After extensive searches online, I finally found a single company who builds an all-aluminum trailer, that was at least 5 feet wide and at least 8 feet long.
Silverwing Trailers. They are out of Utah, but you can buy their trailers through Costco online, with free shipping! It comes to you boxed and packaged on a pallet, and you have to bolt it together, but it is super easy to do.

I wasn't sure how I was going to attach the foam to the aluminum flooring, because I wasn't sure I wanted to start putting a bunch of holes in the trailer.
 
Still working on learning this website. I uploaded some pictures to the Gallery, and working on posting them here as well.

I've just started work on it a couple weeks ago, so I'll keep updating as I go.
 
Philip":3nibs7h1 said:
To post a pic from your album. Click on the pic you want to post. that opens it in another page. Copy the Image url. Them paste that url into your post on the build page

gallery/image.php?album_id=4956&image_id=157507

looking good so far :applause:

Thanks so much! Also, I haven't read through your build yet, but I LOVE the truck!! I have an 83 D-150, so I'm partial to that body style.

If I ever HAVE to replace the wagon, one of the things I would seriously consider trying to find would be a first Gen. 150/250/350, crew cab, 6-foot bed, with the Cummins Diesel. I've seen a few of them, and they come up every once in a while.
I hope I don't ever have to make that decision though, because I have a top 4, and I don't know which direction I would go. Either another wagon, or the Dodge, or an 80's diesel suburban, or maybe a conversion van...
 
My Daily Driver and Tow Vehicle!

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Silverwing trailer delivery. The bed was folded in two with hinges. I had to unfold it, bolt it together from the bottom, and bolt on two plates on the sides. also had to bolt on the tongue, axle, and all the tongue parts.
Overall really simple, and took me about two hours or so by myself.

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Trailer has a ramp that I removed. I'm considering trying to see if I can alter the ramp enough to use as the frame for the rear hatch. Might not be worth the effort though.

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Approximate shape I'm going for. Trailer is 9-feet long, but the curve in front will add about another foot worth of interior space.

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Got the foam cut out for the floor.

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The rails will be inside the side walls, with the camper resting on the trailer floor. This configuration will allow me, in theory, to unclip the rails and lift the camper off the trailer.

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I certainly don't have space for another trailer, but just out of curiosity how much was that one from Costco?

You could easily make a foam/PMF rooftop luggage box to fit in the luggage rack. Could even have the same profile as the camper body. Maybe lay nylon cargo straps over the top of it in between layers of canvas when skinning it to have good tiedown points on the corners. Sweet wagon. I used to have an early 80s Buick Roadmaster with essentially that same engine. Went down the road like a cloud.
 
rjgimp":8c1kqzu2 said:
I certainly don't have space for another trailer, but just out of curiosity how much was that one from Costco?

You could easily make a foam/PMF rooftop luggage box to fit in the luggage rack. Could even have the same profile as the camper body. Maybe lay nylon cargo straps over the top of it in between layers of canvas when skinning it to have good tiedown points on the corners. Sweet wagon. I used to have an early 80s Buick Roadmaster with essentially that same engine. Went down the road like a cloud.

I paid about $2100. Regular price at Costco is $1999.99 (just checked, still that price). I bought it when there was a $200 discount. Then I paid $125 in taxes, plus an additional $140 for the spare tire and mount, coming to $2066.

I know that is at least 4 times as much as a NT or HF 4x8 trailer, but for me it was a deal. To have an additional foot in length and width, as well as already having a floor was worth a lot. Then, adding in the lower weight, the time NOT spent waterproofing the floor with "the mix" and not having to worry about rust or rot, that made it absolutely worth it!

Silverwing actually makes a 5.5x10 trailer, and that is the one I really wanted, but I would have had to ship it myself from Utah. Since that would have probably doubled the cost, I decided to go with the one with free shipping, even if it is smaller!

I did want to say that I have been SOOO amazed by Silverwing's customer service. Even though I ordered through Costco's website, Silverwing contacted me about the spare tire. Since then, I've had a few questions about the side rails, the hinge, the wheel bearings and more, and I've always gotten an email response within a few hours, or the next business day at the very latest.

If anyone has any questions, I highly recommend them, just from this experience. I am NOT getting anything from Silverwing, either money or products or anything.
 
Got both sides hot wire routed out. Now just have to do the front rail and start gluing these pieces together.

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Today I started gluing things together!

Decide to start with the long sides first. Decided the fastest way was to clamp both sides at the same time, keeping them separate using some plastic.
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Kept going with the smaller rails, but kept these separate with parchment paper.
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The plastic seems to have kept the Great Stuff from setting up, but the parchment paper didn't have the same problem.
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I figured out that the scrap cutouts from the wheel wells were the exact shape as the front curve. Decided recycling them was the best thing, so I cut the three I had in half, and cut out a couple more.
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After the GS residue dried, I tried again, but this time without the plastic. Definitely worked better this time!
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Maybe I missed something , but are you going to put some kind of rubber seal on the floor-wall join where it’s removable ? … It is a Cool idea … the foam Cabins are usually pretty Light by themselves …
 
GPW":9q6yq27g said:
Maybe I missed something , but are you going to put some kind of rubber seal on the floor-wall join where it’s removable ? … It is a Cool idea … the foam Cabins are usually pretty Light by themselves …

No, the whole cabin will be able to come off the trailer, floor and all.
 
Glued the rails to the floor today! I glued the rails down, then pinned them, so didn't need to clamp it. I did need two clamps to glue the side rails to the front rail.
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I remembered to put a piece of plastic down on the trailer bed before I glued the rails, so I was able to glue the floor pieces together, without worrying about gluing it all to the trailer. I did need a little weight to make sure the foam flooring was even with each other.
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After letting it cure for about 5 hours, I had my brother help me test it out. I pulled the pins out of the side rails, and each of us got on one side, and the camper came right up off the trailer! It went back in with no trouble, either.
While the camper part isn't completely finished, I have to call this a successful proof of concept!

Since I'll need to work on the underside next, I had him help me pull it back up one more time, and rest on the rails. You should be able to see light coming through between the trailer floor and the foam. Having it halfway out like this will let me flip it over to apply the canvas by myself, or maybe with the kids to help.

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Apropos of nothing. I see where Home Depot is carrying thick cardboard rolls (35 " by 60 feet} , Was remembering some testing that said the thicker cardboard paper (chipboard) really added strength to the walls of the build they were working on. Just a thought1
charliel
 

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