SawTooth XL - Update 6.27.11 - Repairs started

[stomperxj-TNT]

Hey all-

I wanted to post up a design i have been working on the last week or so. I saw a Grasshopper and loved it so I fired up Autocad and started in. This was drawn in Autocad and rendered in Sketchup.

Sleeping area is 76"x50", floor to ceiling is 42", overall height is roughly 5'5, and overall length of the body is 8'...

Let me know what you think.

Jess

 

[planovet]

Nice job! I wish I knew enough about Autocad to be able to draw up something like that.

 

[compactcamping]

Very nice lines, I really like it

I normally build softsided camp trailers, although I too like the Grasshopper profile. One of these days I'll do a hardsided one

 

[TheDuke-TNT]

Really like the shape. Excellent Sketchup work. It has more of the true "teardrop" attributes than mine, which is really a Tiny Travel Trailer.
TheDuke

 

[stomperxj-TNT]

Thanks for the feedback guys...

As far as wall construction is concerned, I was thinking about doing 1/4" ply outer, 1/2" OSB skeleton with blue foam insulation and 1/4" ply inner for a 1" wall thickness. Does that sound good? also, can I get away with 1/2" for the floor or should I go 5/8-3/4"?

 

[Tear Fan]

stomperxj -

Two things -

Put two doors in. You'll never be sorry.

Think about a place for an A/C unit. The hatch below the galley could be one place.

Kudos on thinking big on the wheels. Less sway, better tracking and overall towing. Plus, they don't have to go around as fast.

Tear Fan

 

[stomperxj-TNT]

stomperxj -

Two things -

Put two doors in. You'll never be sorry.

Think about a place for an A/C unit. The hatch below the galley could be one place.

Kudos on thinking big on the wheels. Less sway, better tracking and overall towing. Plus, they don't have to go around as fast.

Tear Fan

I thought about 2 doors, I'll have to explore that again and see how it looks... as far as a/c, I'll probably add that luxury later but i should make room for it now... good point

Yeah this will have about 20" of ground clearance to match the height of my Cherokee. 31" tires and wheels to match. Most likely will see some fire roads and some mild trails with it...

 

[SuperTroll]

AC (Think pet cool) then you need no space, just a place marked tor the hose inlets... and (I picture a luggage rack up on top) I like the whole Idea...I'm leaning towards a Desert Dawg built with a skeleton frame like the one you plan...less joining to do that way...brings the frame work down to a level i can handle...

So far I LIKE your design....

 

[mikeschn]

Don't use OSB. The screws will rip right out of it. So will glued surfaces.

Use Plywood, or baltic birch plywood if you want to be "EXACTLY" 1/2 or 3/4".

Why the suicide doors?

It's a real nice design though! How much space do you have inbetween the wheel wells? You wouldn't want it to be too tight, like this...

Mike...

 

[Greg M-TNT]

I'm building something similar (pics in album) and my only warning would be to watch out for too tight a radius above the front window. I ended up having to get bendy ply to go around mine.

-Greg

 

[stomperxj-TNT]

AC (Think pet cool) then you need no space, just a place marked tor the hose inlets... and (I picture a luggage rack up on top) I like the whole Idea...I'm leaning towards a Desert Dawg built with a skeleton frame like the one you plan...less joining to do that way...brings the frame work down to a level i can handle...

So far I LIKE your design....

Thanks. I saw another build similar to this on Expedition Portal and that's what inspired me to start drawing to see how feasible it is...

Don't use OSB. The screws will rip right out of it. So will glued surfaces. Use Plywood, or baltic birch plywood if you want to be "EXACTLY" 1/2 or 3/4".
Why the suicide doors?
It's a real nice design though! How much space do you have inbetween the wheel wells? You wouldn't want it to be too tight, like this...

Mike...

No OSB? Even being sandwiched like that? I was picking that because of price alone. Suicide doors? I guess so the long side of the door has the hinge on it for more strength. No other reason really. There is about 48" in between the fender wells. Yes its a bit tight but I am matching the rear track width of my Cherokee so that's the constraint I'm working around.

I'm building something similar (pics in album) and my only warning would be to watch out for too tight a radius above the front window. I ended up having to get bendy ply to go around mine.
-Greg

That's another thing I'm a little skeptical about is the radii I have on the front. I like the look the way it is but if its too tight, I'll have to change it. I might have to do some test bends with some ply to see if they will work or not...

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Here's a shot of the frame. The main rails will be 2x2 and the cross members and outrigger parts will be angle iron. I didnt show angle in my drawing though:

Drew some more framing around the galley area:

And punched some holes in the front shelf/bulkhead:

Thanks for the nice comments guys. Any feedback is appreciated, good or bad...

Jess

 

[Steve F-TNT]

I like it this could be why though

And that head end storage

Since these pics I've trimmed ll the outside edges with aluminum angle and will be plating the lower section with aluminium diamond plate tomorrow. Also bought my queen size mattress today.

My track matches my Cherokee and there is still 4 feet between the wheel wells, you don't need as much space at your knees as you do at the shoulders and in testing I don't find it a problem.

Suicide doors are harder to seal and, have the hinge on the short side and if they pop open on the freeway bye bye door.

Cheers
Steve

 

[stomperxj-TNT]

I like it this could be why though
And that head end storage
Since these pics I've trimmed ll the outside edges with aluminum angle and will be plating the lower section with aluminium diamond plate tomorrow. Also bought my queen size mattress today.

My track matches my Cherokee and there is still 4 feet between the wheel wells, you don't need as much space at your knees as you do at the shoulders and in testing I don't find it a problem.

Suicide doors are harder to seal and, have the hinge on the short side and if they pop open on the freeway bye bye door.

Cheers
Steve

Steve - Your build was very insightful and a great read. Lots of info. You can see where I got some ideas. I agree on the 48" bed width. I layed down on the floor with my son over a tape measure and we had plenty of room. I just need to find a girlfriend the same size ...

Thats a good point about the doors. I'll switch sides with the hinges to see how it looks.

Here's a pic of the logo I came up with. The Sawtooth mountain range is pretty close to Boise and I have camped at a place called Trinity Lakes a few times and love it up there so that's where the name came from. The "XL" part is kind of a joke because the trailer is so small

Thanks for the help guys. Hopefully after I sell a motor home I have I can start buying some materials. Frame first and then start buyin some wood...

Jess

 

[devigata]

I layed down on the floor with my son over a tape measure and we had plenty of room. I just need to find a girlfriend the same size ...

Jess[/quote]

Don't forget that your son is going to grow and you'll need more room in just a couple of years. Just a thought, since my youngest just turned 18. *sigh*

 

[grant whipp]

Jess!

Great looking design! Don't worry about the "suicide door" thing too much ... just make sure you have a good door latching mechanism, and run Drip Molding over the top and all the way down in front of the door/door-opening (and some might say even underneath) ...

Will be watching for this one to take solid form! Good Luck with it! In the meantime ...

CHEERS!

Grant

 

[jdarkoregon]

I wouldn't think the corner on that hatch would be very strong, you making it from just wood, or metal?

John

 

[stomperxj-TNT]

I wouldn't think the corner on that hatch would be very strong, you making it from just wood, or metal?

John

Yeah I was thinking about building a steel sub frame for it out of some 1x1 tube. should be pretty easy. It's shown as wood right now in the renderings but I'll probably end up with steel...

 

[rasp]

cool looking adaptation.

i work for an OSB manufacturer, and with the housing as bad as it is i sure would like you to buy all the OSB you need. however, it is designed to be used for sheathing and or flooring. it does both of these jobs nicely and inexpensively. unsanded OSB is not uniform in thickness, it can vary as much as .1". for a home builder this is not a problem, for a sandwich wall on a TD it would be a problem. besides the other problem mentioned by others here, it is also heaver than plywood.

another note: plywood and OSB also can be out of square up to 1/8" measured diagonally corner to corner.

 

[stomperxj-TNT]

cool looking adaptation.

i work for an OSB manufacturer, and with the housing as bad as it is i sure would like you to buy all the OSB you need. however, it is designed to be used for sheathing and or flooring. it does both of these jobs nicely and inexpensively. unsanded OSB is not uniform in thickness, it can vary as much as .1". for a home builder this is not a problem, for a sandwich wall on a TD it would be a problem. besides the other problem mentioned by others here, it is also heaver than plywood.

another note: plywood and OSB also can be out of square up to 1/8" measured diagonally corner to corner.

Thanks for the tips rasp... that's good information to have... I guess I need to price out some plywood...

 

[stomperxj-TNT]

Ok here is what I came up with for the hatch with a steel frame. I rounded off the body too. I am in the process of building a 1" square tube bender so the tube bends wont be an issue, just the wood ones

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Comments and suggestions are always welcome...