Sealing for deep water crossings

[Brett P-TNT]

I have my chassis built and finally back from the powder coaters. just need to get my Timbren suspension fitted and wheels and tires on. I will start posting pictures in a build thread once I have figured out how.
My question is how to seal the bottom of the tear for water crossings off road. I intend to coat the entire ply wood exterior in epoxy before to fixing it to the chassis and fitting aluminium sheet to sides and roof. I was also thinking I would lay aluminium sheet between floor and chassis.
My concern is if I seal the ply to chassis and bottom of aluminium sheet any condensation that builds up will not be able to drain out and will curse rot over time.
Hope this makes sense thanks Brett

 

[GTS225-TNT]

Take it to a shop and have it bedliner coated?

Roger

 

[Tony Latham]

I'd consider sealing the floor/wall edge with bias-ply fiberglass tape (and epoxy of course).

The question, of course, is how you would do it. This is the only way I see that happening:

I can't see any purpose for adding a sheet of aluminum to the bottom. No matter what adhesive you use, there's a high probability that expansion/contraction would cause it to come loose. And then water would move there through capillary action and sit.

Tony

 

[PCO6]

Brett - Do you plan to mount the body flat on to the frame? In addition to your plans to seal it, it might be good to lift it slightly to allow for drainage. Half inch (or similar) "pucks" made out of almost anything at all of your mounting points would work. I used hockey pucks on something similar and it worked great … inexpensive, durable and easy to work with.

 

[Tomterrific-TNT]

It seems the door and hatch is where the water will intrude at the crossing. My suggestion is to have the door and hatch openings high enough that your camper floats before the water can sink the boat.

And a little crazy but a sealed box float in front and behind the axle will help keep the camper high enough.

Tt

 

[Tony Latham]

My suggestion is to have the door ... openings high enough...

That sounds like a pain in the butt. Literally. But it is a problem.

This was in April. I wouldn't have wanted it any deeper.

[youtube]_8XTLQK0x24[/youtube]

We had crossed it at a lower flow and then camped for several days. And of course, it came up.

Tony

 

[Tony Latham]

And one other thing.

In a previous life, I drove that boat for work. (I only nearly died in that rapid once.)

In order to launch and retrieve, the axles had to be submerged. After the first time I burned the trailer bearings out, I added Bearing Buddies and would always re-grease after each submerging. That tip came from the other operators on the river.

Dexter says that their EZ-lube system is submersible. They also state that their axles without that system should not be submerged.

Something to consider.

Tony

 

[Tomterrific-TNT]

Tony, I was a solo whitewater canoeist a long time ago but I never did anything quite so death defing as that rapid.
Also a service manager at a small marina. Bearing Buddies are great bearing savers. While many think they are for greasing the bearing, it is the grease charged spring pressurizing the bearings that works the magic. The bearings get hot rolling down the road. Then they are drenched in cold water which sucks the water into the drenched bearing. The spring pressure of the charged Bearing Buddy keeps this from happening.

Tt

 

[Tony Latham]

I was a solo whitewater canoeist a long time ago...

I too have thrown many a brace with a paddle but it was in a kayak. Quieter times than with that jetboat.

I'm sure your right about the pressure on the grease keeping the water out.

Tony

 

[KTM_Guy]

has

My suggestion is to have the door ... openings high enough...

That sounds like a pain in the butt. Literally. But it is a problem.

This was in April. I wouldn't have wanted it any deeper.

[youtube]_8XTLQK0x24[/youtube]

We had crossed it at a lower flow and then camped for several days. And of course, it came up.

Tony

The question we want to know is did you make Steph walk across to get the video?

 

[Brett P-TNT]

Thanks for all the response.
I am in Queensland Australia a lot of our locale camping requires water crossings to get in and can be very deep.
I was thinking I would full seal all exterior surfaces including the under side of the floor, tape all joints and edges with fibre glass pretty much like a boat.
I had not thought about doors and hatch would the rubber seals be enough?

 

[kmack67.km]

I have half seriously thought about adding pneumatic suspension, like on a lowrider, for something similar. You could just lift the camper higher above the axles when needed and drop it again for flat roads. Never tried it but it might be worth considering.

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

 

[Tony Latham]

The question we want to know is did you make Steph walk across to get the video?

Always. Safety first. We did the same thing crossing the Amazon to make sure there weren't any tire-eating piranas. And how about Meg getting the same pic? (This is kinda funny, BTW.)

Tony

 

[Tony Latham]

I had not thought about doors and hatch would the rubber seals be enough?

I think you'll get some water in. How much depends on your build quality there. I think it would benefit you to build a Fredrick style hatch.

Here's the seal detail from my last teardrop:

You can kinda get a feel for it here:

In that photo, you can see the bottom seal (on the hatch) that pushes against the bottom edge of the floor.

Tony

 

[Brett P-TNT]

I'm using Timbren HD suspension with 4" lift running 33" tires so should have around 600mm (24" ) of clearance which I'm sure will help.
Just had a look at latches for the hatch I can get a marine latch that compresses the rubber seal when the handle is fold down has anyone used something similar.

 

[Tony Latham]

Just had a look at latches for the hatch...

I install adjustable toggle latches.

They'll probably only work for a Fredrick's style hatch. But since the gas struts are pulling it shut while closed, I'm not sure they are needed.

Tony

 

[Brett P-TNT]

Thanks Tony
I'll have a look at those latches may be just the right thing to pull the hatch tight to seal.
I am still wondering about the aluminium cladding on the sides I was thinking I would float it over the ply and use the trim and windows / doors etc to hold it but if seal the bottom of the sheets to stop water getting in how does condensation get out.

 

[Tony Latham]

but if seal the bottom of the sheets to stop water getting in how does condensation get out.

I didn't seal my aluminum chip guard. If water gets in, it can get out.

T

 

[aguyfrom ohio]

I didn't seal my aluminum chip guard. If water gets in, it can get out.

T

An old greybeard design engineer for military equipment told me that is the best approach.
Always assume water will get in somehow, no matter how well you seal things up with gaskets and coatings.
Arrange for water to drain out gracefully, instead of remaining trapped inside to cause trouble.

 

[greygoos]

Try this guys post. He built a floating teardrop. viewtopic.php?f=27&t=46755