Sealing Trailer Brake Light Wires Through a Foam Core Wall

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Original Member Title: Trailer brake light wire sealing
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A member building a TD camper asked how to seal a 4-way trailer light wire where it passes through a foam-core, plywood, epoxy, and fiberglass wall. They wanted something cleaner and more serviceable than simply globbing Geocel Proflex around the wires, and were unsure whether a larger cable gland would seal reliably with multiple wires.

Members suggested a few practical approaches: one used simple 3D-printed flange and tube pieces on both sides of the wall with RTV to seal after...
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Oli-TNT

New Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2020
Posts
6
Hi All,

I'm getting close to having my TD campable! (Will post a photo build log in the next few months once i can round up photos.
I am installing my turn signal/brake lights in the hatch.
I am planning on running the 4 way wire from the front of the trailer, through the front wall. and the rest routing internally to the hatch.

My question is: How should i seal the wire that goes through the wall?
My wall is foam core (about 1.25" thick) with 1/8" ply inside, ~1/4" outside, Epoxy/fiberglass over all.
1781729847636.png

I have some Geocel proflex i could just glob around the wires, but i feel like there has to be a cleaner/better/more serviceable way(if i need to replace wire .etc)
I've seen the below on amazon(i actually have one for my solar panel i'm planning to put on top), but they are pretty big and do one wire at a time (i could put all four through one gland, but i feel like i wouldn't get dependable sealing.
1781727803547.png

Let me know what you've done and any ideas/thoughts.

Thanks!

Oliver H.
 
I used 3D printed flange/tubes. A blob of RTV to seal after installation.
There is a maker space at my local library and the tube itself was very simple to design.

I used TinkerCAD, it's free and online. Pretty simple to use. Exported the STL file and printed it.
 
I like that idea. What material did you print in and how has it held up? do you happen to have a picture of it?

Thanks
Oliver H.
 
I used either PLA or PETG.

It's in a location I can't photograph but if it were metal; picture a pipe with a washer welded on the end. There was one for each side, one tube fit inside the other. Simple really.

It's location is not in sun or exposed to weather so it's holding up fine.
 
Hi All,

I'm getting close to having my TD campable! (Will post a photo build log in the next few months once i can round up photos.
I am installing my turn signal/brake lights in the hatch.
I am planning on running the 4 way wire from the front of the trailer, through the front wall. and the rest routing internally to the hatch.

My question is: How should i seal the wire that goes through the wall?
My wall is foam core (about 1.25" thick) with 1/8" ply inside, ~1/4" outside, Epoxy/fiberglass over all.
View attachment 2471285
I have some Geocel proflex i could just glob around the wires, but i feel like there has to be a cleaner/better/more serviceable way(if i need to replace wire .etc)
I've seen the below on amazon(i actually have one for my solar panel i'm planning to put on top), but they are pretty big and do one wire at a time (i could put all four through one gland, but i feel like i wouldn't get dependable sealing.
View attachment 2471262
Let me know what you've done and any ideas/thoughts.

Thanks!

Oliver H.
 
I didn't. Ran mine on the outside, down low, through electrical NMC and conduit bodies. Gives a bit of industrial look, without punching more holes in the walls, with the exception of right at the rear, and then it was with an "LB" fitting. Even mounted my side markers right on the LB cover. Worked out great.

I'll see about getting a pic today and adding it to this post.

Roger
 
PETG works great outside, but just in case, I hit the stuff with a rattle-can.

I find that being able to CAD something and 3D-printing it is a remarkable resource.

Tony
100% agree. I use Fusion (the big brother to TinkerCAD) in my day job, so anything I need is easy-peasy
 
I use Fusion (the big brother to TinkerCAD) in my day job

I've been using a free version of Sketchup for years, but Apple tells me it'll no longer work on my Mac with the next software update. If I went for a Sketchup subscription, it would be $240 a year, and that's not going to happen. I downloaded the free version of Plasticity, and after a dozen or so YouTube videos, I went with the one-time purchase of the software for $140.

I like it a lot.

1782783379526.png

Tony
 
Yeah, I've heard some good modeling things about Plasticity, but I'm so deep in the Fusion ecosystem I can't change (I use it for CAD/CAM for my shop)
 

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