Shower build help!

ScarBegonias11

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Joined
Sep 10, 2020
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9
I am building a shower in the v nose. I have walls framed in and sheeted with 1/4" plywood. What can I seal the wood with to make waterproof? Not doing any tile. Was going to use aura defense but the tub says not for use on plywood. Any advice? Thank you
 
If you can find a fiberglass shower stall to install. All the walls, ect done , just have to hook up a drain and plumbing.
Our team owner did that in his box truck .
 
If I wanted to use plywood for a shower, I think fibreglass and epoxy would be best.
Thank you for your reply, but I am living in the trailer at a primitive campground plus I don't think I have the skill set for that. Really new at this. I have scoured the internet for a waterproof coating and am more confused
 
T
If you can find a fiberglass shower stall to install. All the walls, ect done , just have to hook up a drain and plumbing.
Our team owner did that in his box truck .

If you can find a fiberglass shower stall to install. All the walls, ect done , just have to hook up a drain and plumbing.
Our team owner did that in his box truck .
Thank you for your reply but building it in part of the v nose it has very odd dimensions and angles. I can't afford a custom one
 
FRP panels from a big box store with the appropriate joint fittings, Relatively cheap and definitely waterproof and can get smooth or pebbled. They are used in showers in parks and campgrounds...not fancy but should fit your needs.

Darrell
 
FRP panels from a big box store with the appropriate joint fittings, Relatively cheap and definitely waterproof and can get smooth or pebbled. They are used in showers in parks and campgrounds...not fancy but should fit your needs.

Darrell
Thank you for your reply and I've done a little research on frp. Im concerned about the trim pieces that are used to attach panels together. The angles are crazy, only 1 90 degree. Since they recommend 1/4" for expansion on each panel, not sure using that much caulking would be good. I need to see if home depot will cut frp. I do have a circular saw but no saw horses, just my tail gate and limited skills. Certainly going to look into it further
 
Thank you for your reply and I've done a little research on frp. Im concerned about the trim pieces that are used to attach panels together. The angles are crazy, only 1 90 degree. Since they recommend 1/4" for expansion on each panel, not sure using that much caulking would be good. I need to see if home depot will cut frp. I do have a circular saw but no saw horses, just my tail gate and limited skills. Certainly going to look into it further
1/4" WOW. that stuff is usually glued to a substrate and then set tight into the connectors. I've done half a dozen commercial bathrooms in this way....and torn a bunch apart for remodels and never saw any sign of expansion. Of course this was in a climate controlled environment.
I have read where many have used these panels as an exterior skin on a tiny camper but haven't read of any having issue...
"shrug"

Darrell
 
Silicone caulk is made to expand with ground or wall movement. I suggest you research that for your seams/wall joints. There are different types for different uses.
 
When I built my "Tiny Camper" on a 5X8 Tractor Supply utility trailer, I used the FRP panels for the outside skin. I filled each joint with silicone caulk and squeezed the panel in gently. No issues with water coming in so maybe if this would work for you it would solve several problems. I used a carbide blade in my little Ryobi circular saw to cut each panel to size. I laid a 2X4 on the driveway and made sure the blade cleared for each cut. Take it slow, wear a mask, goggles (not just safety glasses), and be sure to use long sleeves to avoid fiberglass particles from getting imbedded in your skin. Ask me why I suggest that LOL. Have fun. Measure carefully. It will be worth it when you're all done.
 

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I used FRP over plywood for shower walls in our cabin. It's up in the mountains so gets very cold and in the summer very warm. I used double stick mounting tape and clear silicone in the corners. Has worked perfectly for several years and I see no reason to think it won't be fine for many more. Just butt those odd angled corners up nicely and use 100% silicone, lay down a good bead and roll with it. I left the bottom and top unsealed for air movement of some sort, the bottom hangs over the shower pan lip so no issue there and the top goes to the ceiling and is trimmed behind staine 1x4. Looks nice and is functional.
 
One thing I would add on the silicone front is there are many different types of "silicones". Do your research some are mold resistant, some are just a sealant others have adhesive and sealing properties...some aren't' really a silicone even if the big box employees say they are. Maybe get some ideas then get a few different tubes and do some testing. There are some products out there that bond better and are more flexible than silicone...silicone is almost like calling ever 4wd a Jeep...it's a catch all word...

Just and FWI.

Darrell
 
One thing I would add on the silicone front is there are many different types of "silicones". Do your research some are mold resistant, some are just a sealant others have adhesive and sealing properties...some aren't' really a silicone even if the big box employees say they are. Maybe get some ideas then get a few different tubes and do some testing. There are some products out there that bond better and are more flexible than silicone...silicone is almost like calling ever 4wd a Jeep...it's a catch all word...

Just and FWI.

Darrell
DAP Silicone MAX.

100% silicone, 100% waterproof, lifetime mold-free guarantee
Extremely tough and sticky, great for high-movement areas.
 
Just to be a little more specific, when cutting FRP with a circular saw, some people like to turn the blade around. I don't do that, but it's very important not to push the saw hard. If you shove hard you can push the thin panel into the back of the gullet in the blade and it will try to take an overly aggressive bite, which can shatter the panel and cause kickback.
 
1/4" WOW. that stuff is usually glued to a substrate and then set tight into the connectors. I've done half a dozen commercial bathrooms in this way....and torn a bunch apart for remodels and never saw any sign of expansion. Of course this was in a climate controlled environment.
I have read where many have used these panels as an exterior skin on a tiny camper but haven't read of any having issue...
"shrug"

Darrell
That's why im confused and in way over my head. Too much info on the internet. Thanks for your help!
 
I used FRP over plywood for shower walls in our cabin. It's up in the mountains so gets very cold and in the summer very warm. I used double stick mounting tape and clear silicone in the corners. Has worked perfectly for several years and I see no reason to think it won't be fine for many more. Just butt those odd angled corners up nicely and use 100% silicone, lay down a good bead and roll with it. I left the bottom and top unsealed for air movement of some sort, the bottom hangs over the shower pan lip so no issue there and the top goes to the ceiling and is trimmed behind staine 1x4. Looks nice and is functional.
Why double sided tape?
 
One thing I would add on the silicone front is there are many different types of "silicones". Do your research some are mold resistant, some are just a sealant others have adhesive and sealing properties...some aren't' really a silicone even if the big box employees say they are. Maybe get some ideas then get a few different tubes and do some testing. There are some products out there that bond better and are more flexible than silicone...silicone is almost like calling ever 4wd a Jeep...it's a catch all word...

Just and FWI.

Darrell
Thanks! I will definitely read the tunes carefully
 
Just to be a little more specific, when cutting FRP with a circular saw, some people like to turn the blade around. I don't do that, but it's very important not to push the saw hard. If you shove hard you can push the thin panel into the back of the gullet in the blade and it will try to take an overly aggressive bite, which can shatter the panel and cause kickback.
Oh no.. that's got me concerned cuz im in a primitive camp ground with only the tail gate of my truck for workspace
 
it cuts, just don't push hard, let the saw work, and wear safety glasses.
 

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