So you want to be a welder?

[Jonnyo]

one option to look at if you want to get a mig welder is EASTWOOD. They back there product with a 30 days return it no question ask if you dont like it. 3 year warranty and there warranty service on about all there tools is first class....they replace it.

i got mine for 539$....it s a 220volt 175 amp...come with a spool gun to do aluminum and mig gun for steel. there is no other unit that match there price. it wont be on par in quality with Miller or Lincoln but it s a very decent machine that will do the job.

i had 2 certified welder come see my work and also try the machine and for working from your own garage...they said it s very good and incridible value for the price.

they have cheaper units...



i had to buy a 100$ tank of argon....and now i m learning to weld alumium.

As shadow catcher said....a course can be a good idea. For the big structural weld, have someone certified help you. And practice....practice...practice...

 

[eamarquardt]

And Gus, I've already given up all my vices and pursuits.......................................

Gosh, you can't be having much fun.

Cheers,

Gus

 

[working on it]

Looks like a good machine, but more than I'll probably need (of course, I might end up buying two or more eventually, like Gus said, or be so bad at it that I won't use it). Actually, I never quit trying once I fail at something...I never give up (except on marriage #1, chess- my D.A. brother beat me once, and Google Sketchup). I am still wondering if a small 110v MIG/Flux is what I need to begin with (with a 220v stick welder to come later, for structural metal), or go all out and try to convince the wife I need a $500 starter machine (like my friend has been trying to talk me into buying for years). I balk at starting big...I like to build up to things.

And Gus, I've already given up all my vices and pursuits.......................................

Gosh, you can't be having much fun.

Cheers,
Gus

Gus, I am willing to develop new pursuits and vices to replace the old...camping, Coleman, and DO's seem to be an addiction hereabouts! Maybe I'll be an addict too. Actually, I seem to be enjoying the build and after-build as much as anything I've done in a long time. The problem-solving and trying new ways to do things is my new hobby. I may have bitched about some aspects during the build, but once I thought I was finished, I missed it! I guess it has supplanted my car fetish, at least for the forsee-able future.

 

[Dale M.]

Your constant reference to over building is not reflected in the capability of the tool you are contemplating....

Dale

 

[working on it]

Your constant reference to over building is not reflected in the capability of the tool you are contemplating....

Dale

I'm trying to cut back on that habit....

 

[Dale M.]

IF you have not purchased a welder yet, you may be able to upgrade to higher level machine and still keeps costs down... Here is a Hobart Handler 140 for $100 under suggested retail...

http://www.hobartweldshop.com/servlet/t ... ers/Detail

And its a Hobart Factory Store, doubt if you can go wrong....

Dale

 

[working on it]

IF you have not purchased a welder yet, you may be able to upgrade to higher level machine and still keeps costs down... Here is a Hobart Handler 140 for $100 under suggested retail...
http://www.hobartweldshop.com/servlet/t ... ers/Detail
And its a Hobart Factory Store, doubt if you can go wrong....
Dale

Guys- thanks for all your advice, I know that you know your stuff. As usual, I went another direction. I talked at great length with a fellow worker, who suggested that I try both the stick and the flux welders at my home, for what I needed to do, and see what I preferred under various situations (outdoors, and in the garage), before I committed to a really good machine. He also said that he still prefers the arc (and tig) to a flux/mig after years of using both. I agree with that idea, to try both types, at length, before (and if I get a good one). I asked him about the cheap Chinese welders as a "starter". Specifically the 200amp/230v Northern Industrial stick. He said he had one, as well as Lincolns' "Tombstone". He said that for the money, and my limited requirements, the Northern would be great. If I ended up liking the arc welding, then buy a "Red" or a "Blue" later. So, I got the Northern that day. For the $170+35=205(plus tax) I spent on it, I am warranteed for three years (on a get another one from Northern that day! basis). I had previously checked out a used Lincoln for $200, and another "returned" unit at Home Depot for $235; I had to pass on the appalling conditions of both. I'm also going to get the Northern Industrial 125 Flux welder second, and try that as well (110v only). I have plans to use either or both of these cheap welders around my in-laws ranch (they don't weld either) and once I get my "feet wet" in welding, and go big, I'll just use them there. I really have my eye set on the Hobart 210MVP eventually. But, right now, I just have the 230v arc...which I can't use (I shoulda checked it out better) until I upgrade my electrical, which is not ready (to my surprise). My thread on that oversight: http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=58200 Meantime, I'll get the 125 Flux in a week or two, and make sparks (at 110v).

 

[Dale M.]

Cool... Buy I would avoid buying flux core MIG... Once you use it, you will wonder about dollars spent on stick machine....

Dale

 

[grantstew8]

I'd not read this thread and bought this stick welder at half price. I'm not planning on any serious welding.

https://www.aldi.co.uk/en/specialbuys/thursday-24th-october/product-detail/ps/p/arc-welder/

 

[working on it]

I'd not read this thread and bought this stick welder at half price. I'm not planning on any serious welding.

https://www.aldi.co.uk/en/specialbuys/thursday-24th-october/product-detail/ps/p/arc-welder/

If I converted the currency correctly, you paid $65 USD for it, warranty and all. If it works just for a little while, and works fairly well, that's a good deal. No specs shown, but looks good to learn with. My wife shoulda got one for me...the less I spend on myself leaves more for her!

 

[grantstew8]

The exchange rate is about 1.5 and I paid half price £20 so about $30. Just as you said, I though it would be something I could learn with and if I got serious I'd probably need a new power supply before I could up the hardware.
Thanks!

 

[working on it]

...(from 12-3-13) I'm also going to get the Northern Industrial 125 Flux welder second, and try that as well (110v only). I have plans to use either or both of these cheap welders around my in-laws ranch (they don't weld either) and once I get my "feet wet" in welding, and go big, I'll just use them there. I really have my eye set on the Hobart 210MVP eventually. But, right now, I just have the 230v arc...which I can't use (I shoulda checked it out better) until I upgrade my electrical, which is not ready (to my surprise). My thread on that oversight: http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=58200 Meantime, I'll get the 125 Flux in a week or two, and make sparks (at 110v).

Well, after waiting for my wife to get home from her out of the blue trip to NYC (and waiting for all the "hidden" travel costs and "must have" purchases to surface), and then waiting two more weeks to see if my hints to Santa (for the flux welder) would suffice, I found a)no huge overexpenditure in NYC, nor b)any gift under the tree for me either. After the "a/b" results were in, I decided to be my own Santa, and gifted myself the Northern 125 Flux Welder ($129.99 one year warranteed + 34.99 two year extension),as I had stated before.

I should feel bad about buying myself two toys in one month, but I don't. Tried it out on the only two pieces of scrap I had (and not ear-marked for future use)...1/8" and 3/16" flat pieces of galvanized steel. Discouraging, sputtering, fuming results at first. Then, I got the feed speed right, and made a couple of lines of practice welds. My first. This is going to be a learning curve type of thing, and like my friends have told me, avoid galvanized steel (none of them will use it). I tried to avoid the fumes, and a stiff breeze helped; I used my auto-darkening helmet, but the combination of a bright outdoor sun and the arc turned the shade too dark for me to see thru (I'll have to figure out the best helmet/shade adjustment, or get a lower number plate). Much like most other things in my experience (at least the ones I wanted to do, and had difficulty doing at first), I will acquire the skill through practice and perseverance (that's my credo, and I'm sticking to it).

 

[CARS-TNT]

Your friends are right. Don't use gal. metal for practicing. It's horrible enough when you HAVE to weld that crap.

Your breeze idea also made your shielding blow away from the weld puddle.

Get some clean mild steal and keep practicing!

 

[working on it]

from 12-28-13 ...pieces of galvanized steel. Discouraging, sputtering, fuming results at first. Then, I got the feed speed right, and made a couple of lines of practice welds. My first. This is going to be a learning curve type of thing, and like my friends have told me, avoid galvanized steel (none of them will use it). I tried to avoid the fumes, and a stiff breeze helped; I used my auto-darkening helmet, but the combination of a bright outdoor sun and the arc turned the shade too dark for me to see thru (I'll have to figure out the best helmet/shade adjustment, or get a lower number plate). Much like most other things in my experience (at least the ones I wanted to do, and had difficulty doing at first), I will acquire the skill through practice and perseverance (that's my credo, and I'm sticking to it).

After reading this response from CARS,

Your friends are right. Don't use gal. metal for practicing. It's horrible enough when you HAVE to weld that crap.Your breeze idea also made your shielding blow away from the weld puddle.Get some clean mild steal and keep practicing!

I figured I would make some progress if I followed his advice. I guess not (since I tried the same, expecting different results). Tried the flux welder again today, again on galvanized steel (pipe fittings this time), plus coated ? mild steel, and a heavily chromed trailer ball. AGAIN windy, but I adjusted the helmet shade where I could almost see OK. The project: piddling around with spare 4x4 treated wood, steel, pipe fittings, and a trailer ball I had bought 25 years ago (for a S-10 I had, to tow a trailer-and boat-I never got) to piece together a makeshift towbar (pusher bar) to move my TTT in and out of the garage. Had a wild hair(hare?) caught in my head to see if I could build a quick-disconnect pushbar out of scraps I had on hand, and a whole afternoon of decent weather to try it. So I did. The almost finished piece needed welding to secure the ball to the pipe and the pipe to the strapping (and the strapping screwed to the wood, and the hipbone to the....and so on). Well anyway, after last time's galvanizing experience, I tried to grind off the zinc from the pipe, and also the outer chrome from the ball (really thick, made in America back then...) so I could perhaps successfully weld them together. The fumes weren't so bad this time, but the lack of practice and trying to finish in the twilight yielded the same unsatisfactory results. Since I could at least almost see the items (as I was welding), I was able to actually get some penetration into the steel, and the welds held after I tested them with my BFH, I consider today's effort a minor success. Lots of spatter, uneven spotting, and I never could keep the right distance from the work nor my feed constant. Also, though I shoulda done so, I didn't prepare the mild steel at all (had some type of coating, and I had no degreaser), so it wasn't easy to weld either. Total weld practice time now= 30 minutes. Time needed to become proficient= lots more! No time to clean up the finished piece, since it was becoming dark, and I now had a headache (allergies + zinc fumes; who knows?), so here is a pic of the un-chipped, un-cleaned, un-ground welds on my experimental pushbar:

I'll clean it up and grind it down next weekend, to see if it can be usable. Gonna be a long learning curve.

 

[Dale M.]

IF you are learning, get some clean metal of like kinds and practice.... Using metals with lots of variation and weird surface coating ls will almost be impossible learn to weld let alone getting penetration and clean weld that do not need lots of clean up to look good....

Find a good welding forum and take your experiences there and let experts help you...

Since I went with Hobart this is where I hang out....

http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/f ... re-Welders

Dale

 

[MtnDon]

What he said about clean metal. Oil, paint, coatings, etc all make it hard to get a good weld. Start with same thickness to same thickness. A butt weld of two side by side strips will make it easy to see penetration. Practice on something horizontal and where you move the torch/handle in a straight line. Curves, vertical and even upside down can come later. But IMO the BIG thing is clean metal. Thinking that the arc will cut through and melt away the crud leads to bad welds and disappointment.

 

[working on it]

... so here is a pic of the un-chipped, un-cleaned, un-ground welds on my experimental pushbar:

I'll clean it up and grind it down next weekend, to see if it can be usable. Gonna be a long learning curve.

The saga continues: I had some time left today (after I converted my Craftsman generator's mobile cart-leftover after I mounted the genny in my trailer- to a cart for the Northern 125 Flux Welder), so I got my newly bought 80 grit flapper disc and attached it to my angle grinder, and set to work at the mis-welded experimental pushbar project, again. First note: I love the flapper disc! Never used one before, and I like it better than the grinding disc for removing and smoothing metal (grinder disc jumps around and hard to handle). I took out my BFHagain, and really whacked the assembly hard, in several locations, harder than last weeks test. One weld did break loose, the collar holding the hitch ball in the pipe. So I started grinding (flapping?) the slag and flux and spatter from the piece, then using a wire wheel in my drill to get as much of the rest as clean as I could. I exposed some cracks and seams in the welds (especially around the seat of the chrome ball and the cast iron collar). The chrome/ galvanized /cast iron mix is not an easy weld to make on a first attempt! I had not prepped the various metals correctly, nor had properly beveled the edges, nor gotten the heat and wire feed speeds correct last try. After todays clean-up, I tried less wire feed speed, more heat, less distance, more time on weld. Since I had already burnt off the zinc coating last week, I could get closer to the piece, and could actually see what I was doing. I could gauge the lead of the wire needed (1/2" worked best), the wire feed speed to keep it there (6.5 on my dial), the right heat (on high, and kept in one spot until it glowed red, then moved on). I see that rounded surfaces may be a bit more challenging than straight and flat ones, especially for a novice, but I pressed onward. I re-smoothed the new welds, that were much better than my first attempts, with less spatter and less globs/air pockets to grind away. I also drilled out the screwhole that secured the collar to the pipe previously (in addition to a poor spot weld), and drilled thru into the core of the hitch ball's stem. At this point, after I saw only a couple of points to reweld, I did a deep plugweld into the drilled hole, feeding much wire into the glowing abyss, for a long time. After a break, to let things cool a bit, I used the flapper and wire wheel for the third time today. Not a professional result, nor even a good amateur's, but for a complete noob at this...I was satisfied for an hour+ work. And the BFH didn't dislodge anything this time.

 

[jseyfert3]

I'd like to say thanks in advance to G-force for the write up, I'll be using it to learn to weld. A couple months ago I got this for the grand price of free from my mom's husband who didn't want it anymore.

Welder and Wires by jseyfert3, on Flickr


Welder Face Plate by jseyfert3, on Flickr

Only thing I have to do is install a NEMA 6-30 outlet in my garage using an existing but unused 30 A circuit breaker that used to supply the water heater (it's gas now), then change the plug on the welder to match. It currently has a NEMA 10-50, the NEMA 10 plugs are for devices that need two hot wires and a neutral (for 120 and 240 V at the same time), used on old ranges and dryers until 1996 when it was required that new installs include a ground wire as well (4 prong connector). The NEMA 6 outlets have two hot wires and a ground wire (240 V only), no neutral. But that should not cost very much, and the breaker panel is in my garage so it makes for a short wiring run to the outlet.

Oh, and I need another one of these connectors. He was using a screwdriver in the hole and clamping the wire to the screwdriver.

Missing Connector by jseyfert3, on Flickr

 

[Redneck Teepee]

Get your self some good twist lock connectors and make sure all of your other connections are good and solid, loose connections produce heat and eratic welding temps which is the last thing you need while learning to weld. Your stinger appears to be missing one of the insolators on the jaw so be sure and replace it too.

 

[KCStudly]

Nice old buzz box. Should last you a lifetime.

Great observations by Redneck. ^

You should be able to get a new bung for that lead at any dedicated welding supply (Maine Oxy, Airgas, etc.). Make sure you have all of the proper PPE, too; proper helmet, heavy gloves, a long sleeve heavy cotton shirt buttoned up at the neck and cuffs (minimum, a welding jacket is preferred), a slag chipping hammer, and safety glasses.

If you are welding inside your garage, be prepared for smoke (stick welding as very dirty) and you may want to put a thin sheet of steel down on the floor under your work; hot splatter will spawl your concrete.

6013 rod is good for less than perfect steel (rust). 7018 is stronger, and some say makes a nicer looking bead, but I have more trouble initiating an arc with it. YMMV. 3/32 diameter is probably a good starting point for most light trailer needs.