Step 2: Building your 5x8 red trailer

mikeschn

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Step 2: Build your chassis 5x8 red trailer
The 5x8 red trailer design has been modified for use with the Generic Benroy.

The first modification Is to change the width of the trailer from 60” to 58”. This will allow the side walls to hang over the frame, thus hiding the frame.

The second modification is to knotch the frame and mount the axle above the springs instead of under the springs. This allows the trailer to sit lower, albeit not quite as low as the original. For that you would need a torsion axle, with adjustable arms.

And finally, do not install the finders or any of the electrical components

The trailer will be assembled as per the directions that came with it, except for the following.

Using a metal chop saw, cut each of the (4) cross members exactly 2” shorter. Drill new holes in the end, of each cross member.

The 2 center cross members need to be cut to fit into the side rails as shown. Also remove the flange so that you can fit in a pine cross member. This converts the folding trailer into a rigid trailer.

Install a pine cross member in place of the channel cross members.

Notch out the angle iron to give the axle travel clearance.

Cut off xx” from the 45* tongue members. Drill new holes on the trimmed ends.

Finish assembling per the directions.

This would also be a good time to prime the wood and paint the trailer.
 
mikeschn":27o3uptw said:
Step 2: Building your 5x8 red trailer

Tom S, can you help me with this step?

Mike...


Mike,

I'm not sure exactly what you need from me. The design of the Red Trailer is very similar to the HF trailer. I followed the Kuffel Creek instructions when building the Red Trailer.

The only area where I ran into some trouble during attachment of the spring hangers. I cut off the brackets for the castors and relocated the hangers to center the axle to 36" from the rear of the trailer, per the Kuffel Creek Plans. I ran into some conflicts with the bolt heads holding one of the cross members in place and some of the bolts I installed to hold the inserts in place. I also failed to account for the springs when I mounted my hangers. The Red Trailer uses slipper springs. You need to make sure your mounting bolts don't interfere with the spring travel.

I have slide show detailing my frame build on my web site at
http://www.tomswenson.com/teardrop/trailerframe/index.shtml

Let me know if you have any specific questions. I'll do my best to answer them.
 
Tom,

Can you give me 2 dimensions from your red trailer?

1) from the inside of the tire to the inside of the tire

2) from the outside of the tire to the outside of the tire.

I'm looking for the worst case dimension, in other words from the sidewall bulge to the other sidewall bulge. You might have to hold a straight edge across the tire to get those dimensions.

Thanks,

Mike...

P.S. Can I use your trailer assembly photos too?
 
Mike,

I assume you're looking for the distances from one side of the trailer to the other. is this correct?
 
Yes that is correct.

I plan on drawing a section thru the tires, and overlaying the fenders to determine the best size fenders to use.

On my Lil Diner I used 11" fenders, but I'm hoping I can use 9" fenders on the Generic Benroy.

Thanks for your help...

Mike...
 
OK. You're timing was perfect as I was working on my trailer this afternoon.

The inside distance is 63 1/4 inches
The outside distance is 73 5/8 inches

The side rail width is 3 1/8 inches.
 
TomS":1wrux74a said:
OK. You're timing was perfect as I was working on my trailer this afternoon.

The inside distance is 63 1/4 inches
The outside distance is 73 5/8 inches

The side rail width is 3 1/8 inches.

Thanks a whole bunch Tom...

I was guessing the side rail was 2 1/2" high... I'm surprised it's 3 1/8". But that's good to know. Now I can revise my design to the exact dimensions...

As for the fenders, it looks like I can use 7" fenders... I'll have to lay it out on cad and see how that looks....

Your help is much appreciated... btw, can I use your photos for step 2 of the Generic Benroy?

Mike...
 
Hey Mike,

I just noticed something else. The cross members on the Red Trailer do not have a flanges. So notching them is not necessary to install the pine cross member.

Also, feel free to use the photos on my web site. The only thing I ask in return is a photo creedit and a link back to my site. Also, let me know if you need the orignal raw JPeG from my digital camera. I can get them to you.
 
Okay, you got it Tom... Thanks...

Mike...

P.S. I'll update the build directions, and add your credits tomorrow...
 
I don't seem to be able to find a supplier for the 5x8' red trailer. Could someone please direct me to a source?

Jim
 
Jim:

Take a look @ the carry-on trailer sold by Tractor Supply. I'm to pick mine up this week. For the money, I think it is a good buy.

Larry
 
Mike I have started with the folding 4x8 Harbor trailer and am building a 10' by 4' unit for it. My quest. is this should I unbolt the axle assembly and slide it back and redrill new holes for it. right now the body has a 12 over hang on each end. My concerns are with toungue weight when finished.First time builder here. I try not to ask much just learn so much from reading others quest. and answers.....thanks for the wonderful site.

p.s. body not boleted down just yet
 
Hi, Newbie here!

I am planning to build the generic Benroy using the 5x8 red trailer. I have read through the building plans on this site (very nice!) and have a question about cutting the cross members by 2"

Using a metal chop saw, cut each of the (4) cross members exactly 2� shorter. Drill new holes in the end, of each cross member.

From the pictures it looks like there is a tapped hole in the end of the cross member which is used to attach to the side frame. If I cut 2" from one end, will that not remove the tapped hole? I am sure I missing something?

Thanks!
 
I just got my 5x8 redtrailer also. Is it necesary to cut it 2 inches? Im building a benroy style trailer. I want the inside to be 5 foot wide etc. Am I missing something?
 
mikeschn":3eh4iite said:
The first modification Is to change the width of the trailer from 60” to 58”. This will allow the side walls to hang over the frame, thus hiding the frame.

If you prefer to build on top of the trailer rather than let the side walls hang over, then no, you don't have to cut the cross members.

Mike...
 
Im planning on having the sides hang down about 2 inches to cover the frame. But I see no reason to narrow the frame. I will secure the sides thru the wooden frame and the steel frame. I will have to use 5' 3/4" length luan and frp length sideways to cover the top.
 
If you have clearance to the wheels, and don't mind a little extra waste when skinning the top, you should be able to do that.

The original design was intended to use 5' wide aluminum to skin the top.

Have fun!

Mike...
 

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