Teardrop position on trailer

[Sara-TNT]

Hi - I have the haul master 5x10 trailer. Actually it's 5x 123". The outside rail in the front is 1 1/2" and the back rail is 1 1/2". The cross beams sit 7/8" below the side rails. The axle sits at 6 feet from the front.

Inside the front and back rails its exactly 10 feet. I would like some advice as to whether I attach the floor an 1 1/2 back from the front rail so it's inside the sunken box? Otherwise, if I start the front of my teardrop (sides are already built at 120" long) at the edge of the front rail, I will have an inch and a half of exposed flooring at the back. See picture to get a better idea of what I mean by the 10' sunkenarea inside the trailer box.

 

[Sara-TNT]

I meant to say, the axle sits at 6 feet from the front of the trailer (measuring from outside front crossbeam to axle)

 

[Tony Latham]

So the trailer frame isn't 5 x 10'?

Assuming it is 5 x 10', I don't understand why you wouldn't mount it to the frame and add 7/8" strips to the floor to contact the cross members.

Tony

 

[Sara-TNT]

The trailer is longer, it's 123" long. It's 3" longer than my teardrop walls. It has a 1 1/2 inch front rail, 1 1/2 inch back rail, and 10' in between. So I'm trying to determine if it's ok to position the floor 1 1/2 inches back from the front.

If I dont move the teardrop back 1 1/2" from the front then there will be a gap at the back end between the teardrop and the last rail of 1 1/2 inches that is exposed to the road. Also the bottom frame won't be supported by the trailers cross rail at the very back of the trailer (there is a cross rail right before the back rail)

The wood frame in the picture shows where the 10' for the teardrop would sit if it's 1 1/2" back. I would utilize the side rails so ignore those.

New question: If I understand your recommendation, it's to put cross members underneath the floor so the bottom of the teardrop starts 7/8" higher in horizontal alignment with the side rails.

 

[DrewsBrews]

Looks like the trailer is bolted together?

I would not scoot it one way or the other per se. I would unbolt the rear rail, cut the rear 3" off the side rails (angle grinder with cutoff wheel), then drill new bolt holes and bolt the rear rail back on. Can hit the bare metal with some paint first.

 

[Tony Latham]

If I understand your recommendation, it's to put cross members underneath the floor so the bottom of the teardrop starts 7/8" higher in horizontal alignment with the side rails.

Assuming the chassis frame is 5' wide, I'm suggesting you mount the floor to the frame and add 7/8" blocking so the floor is supported by the cross members.

What is the width of the chassis frame?

If you move the cabin back, will the doors clear the wheels?

Tony

 

[Sara-TNT]

The chassis frame is 5' wide.

Great question on the doors...I will install a fender tomorrow and see if they will clear..I will get back to you on that.

My initial thought was to do an internal frame of 1x2s that you see in the picture with 2 x4s on the cross rails and another external frame of 1x4s on top of the side rails and front and back cross rails. The height measurements seem to work and it would allow me to have a 5' wide outside to outside wall. I could fill with 1 1/2 XPS insulation. The inside floor would be an inch above the side rails. I was going to bolt through the floor to the cross members.

I am interested in your recommendation to add 7/8 blocking to the cross rails, then mount the floor to the frame. It seems easier if I can get wood in the right height.

As I look at the bolt together trailer, it occured to me that I might be able to add another cross rail near the back to support the floor of the galley using pressure treated plywood. Maybe I could attach cdx across the last two rails, and treat it with something to provide support. I could also try to find a trailer shop and see if they could assist with a metal cross member..then I could attach the floor all the way to the front of the trailer and have support at the back.

 

[Sara-TNT]

Looks like the trailer is bolted together?

I would not scoot it one way or the other per se. I would unbolt the rear rail, cut the rear 3" off the side rails (angle grinder with cutoff wheel), then drill new bolt holes and bolt the rear rail back on. Can hit the bare metal with some paint first.

I'm not experienced enough to cut the trailer. I could try to find a trailer shop and see what they can do.

 

[Modstock]

If you can cut wood , you can cut steel.
Get ya a 4"grinder and some cut off disc's. Let the grinder do the work and don't push into the steel. Something that should take a few minutes.

Can also just leave that 3" sticking out the back for a bumper. There's a few teardrops I've seen here like that.
Can even bolt up some type of bike mount or carriage to hold firewood to it.

 

[Sara-TNT]

Assuming the chassis frame is 5' wide, I'm suggesting you mount the floor to the frame and add 7/8" blocking so the floor is supported by the cross members.

What is the width of the chassis frame?

If you move the cabin back, will the doors clear the wheels?

Tony

The doors will clear the fenders if I moved it back.

I am now thinking I will not move it back but option 1: add another cross member to the trailer in the rear. Is it ok to attach bolts into the side rail?

Option2: 1/4 treated okoume that will cover the last two cross rails on the trailer. And build the frame starting from the front because the hatch will cover the last few inches.

I'm using your book so the hatch will cover the last few inches. I was worried the rain would soak the floor if I had an opening.

I noticed that your floor frame does not match the cross members on the trailer. If I build a similar frame then it should hold. And I may not need to add the cross member to the trailer...just have it in the frame. It appears that you used titebond 3 glue to hold the wood frame cross members in place.

 

[Tony Latham]

Is it ok to attach bolts into the side rail?

For bolting the cabin down, yes. If the chassis frame is channel, and not tubing, you should probably add a piece of pipe so the bolt doesn't damage the steel.

Tony

 

[Tony Latham]

I noticed that your floor frame does not match the cross members on the trailer. If I build a similar frame then it should hold. And I may not need to add the cross member to the trailer...just have it in the frame.

Correct.

Tony

 

[Sara-TNT]

Correct.

Tony

Thank you!