Terry's TTT Garageable Standy Build modifications

[terryjones1]

My TTT requirements:

want garageable <84" height
- I have to park it in garage.
want "standy" >69" inside height (drop floor)
- I am <68-1/2" tall.
want >= 60" wide bed
- Nice size.
want 26" W door
- Looks big enough to go through,
want drop floor - 7"
- need to be garageable & "standy"
want 48" dinette
- nice size. can fold to 2nd bed.
want 12 DCV refrigerator (left side, next to dinette)
- I have had 3 DC refrigerators previously.
- Norcold DC51 has very low current draw.
want porta potti (right side at dropped floor, under refrigerator)
- needs to slide out, primarily for night use.
want water sys (sink at left side, tanks under bed)
- like simple water system
want AC
- can get hot in areas that I go to.
want Group 31 AGM battery (under bed)
- need large battery, primarily for refrigerator.
want trailer to be <192" (16 ft) overall
- want to register in California as Permanent Trailer.
want converter/charger
- Power center & battery charger

Plans - Decided upon the following:

Axle

UCF Flexiride Axle - 3500 lb downrated to 2500 lb
Bracket Diminsion = 56"
Hubface 68.5"
Overhang = 6.25"

5 x 4.5 hub & drum
10" x 2.25" electric brakes
wheels - 5 x 4.5 - 14" - rim width 6" - no offset
tires - 195/75-14 - 7.68" tire width, 23.2" diameter

Frame

Main Frame = 2" x 3" - .120 tubing
Main Frame at drop floor = 2" x 2" - .188 tubing
Back of frame to start of drop floor = 73-3/4"
(bed width = 60")
Back of frame to end of drop floor = 102-3/4"
drop floor height = 7"
drop floor back to front = 28"
Back of frame to front of frame (excluding tongue) = 151-1/2"
dinette width = 48"
Back of frame to end of A-frame = 181.75"
Back of frame to end of tongue = 190.75"
Back of frame to center of axle = 58"
Main Frame width = 56"
Overall frame width = 78"

Body

Overall body length = 152"
Overall body width = 78-1/2"
Inside & outside wall covering, roof inside & outside covering = 1/4" plywood
Side Wall framing = 3/4" H x 1" W actual size (3/4" H x 1-1/2" W at seams)
Front & back wall framing = 1" H x 1-1/2" W
Roof framing (spars) = 1" H x 3/4" W (1" H x 1" W at seams)
Outside side & roof finish covering = epoxy + paint
Entrance door will be on right side
Two windows will be on both sides. None in front or rear
Fantastic Vent at front wall
Air Conditioneer/heater at back wall

I will make height clearance measurements, every foot, or so, as I back trailer frame into garage. From that, I will be able to determine body height, and final shape. Trailer will have rounded off front & back

Inside

front dinette = 48" width x >72" length (folds into 48" W bed)
rear bed >= 64" width x >= 76" length
cabinet on left side at drop floor that will hold refrigerator & Porta Potti
cabinet at right to rear of door
sink & faucet will be on cabinet
water tanks under bed
Portable 1 burner stove on cabinet
AGM battery under bed
Converter/charger will be mounted at the side of left bench seat.
Window Air Conditioneer at back.
Storage - under bed, under dinette benches, in cabinets

I have made my first steps in getting started with my TTT project.

I have drawn frame plans & floor plans, using Design CAD.

I have purchased most of steel.

I have ordered the Flexiride axle.

I have ordered & received the wheel rims, tongue, stabilizer jacks, tongue jack.

I have cut the steel for 80% of the main frame.

I have welded plates to the ends of the main frame tubing.

I am on hold until I receive the axle.

Just to provide some picture. Below is most of the cut steel tubing for the main frame:

 

[terryjones1]

deleted

 

[terryjones1]

Shown below is the two side rails of the main frame. Notice the 7" drop floor. Next I will install the A-frame, tongue and cross framing

 

[JimboSlim]

It looks like you've got a really great start on your build. Your chassis is looking great. Since you haven't decided on the profile quite yet, I'll throw in my two cents. How about something with a Widget influence??? Maybe something like my Long Widget design would work for you. http://www.mikenchell.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=636661&sid=2dcdfdd519426f662e19b47c6fb839c6

I'm going to have to keep an eye on this one.

 

[myoung-THOR]

From what I can read between the lines, it seems like you are going to build quite a large TTT. Hope you will post the plans soon. This should be interesting.

 

[terryjones1]

Shown below is a rough profile drawing of what the trailer will look like.
The windows and door will probably be rounded.
The final profile will be determined on clearance measurements that I will make while backing the finished frame with tires mounted, into the garage.
The approach to my garage is slightly uphill.

 

[terryjones1]

I had deleted the previous profile.

 

[terryjones1]

Shown below is the floor Plan:

I am now approximately 80 % complete with construction of the frame. I will soon post pictures of the frame.

 

[terryjones1]

After 5 trys and 2 months, I finally received a Flexiride Axle that was manufactued as I specified.

Specifications:
side mount
3500 pound axle
downrated to 2500 pounds
bracket deminsion = 56"
hub face = 68.5"
overhand = 6.25"

I will now weld on axle side mount brackets that I made.
Welding on frame is 98% complete.
Painting on frame is 50% complete.
1/2" flooring plywood is 100% cut and trimed to fit frame.
Pictures will follow when frame is finished painting.

 

[terryjones1]

Below is a picture of a setup I tryed for straightening frame warp from welding. I broke the 1/4" steel rope. That was the end of that adventure.

I have cut out all of the plywood floring for the trailer. I used 1/2" AC plywood. I treated the plywood edges, and knots & voids on "C" side of plywood with 2 coats of ROT Doctor's CPES. After the CPES treatment, I filled the Knots & voids on the "C" side of the plywood with RAKA 127/608 epoxy kit thickened with pine sawdust filler. Below is a picture of the larger pieces of flooring plywood

Below is a picture of the small pieces of plywood. These will be used at the drop floor setback, the rear of fender area, and the front of fender area.

Next, I will be applying fiberglass to the plywood at rear of fender area, and the front of fender area.

I will , also, be splicing plywood for front and back floor areas.

I have pretty much completed the frame.

When I remove the plywood & plastic cover for the frame I will post pictures of frame.

 

[bdosborn-SMB]

Shown below is the floor Plan:

I am now approximately 80 % complete with construction of the frame. I will soon post pictures of the frame.

Interesting, will you have a door in the back?

Bruce

 

[Tommy2bits]

I will enjoy watching this build! You have the eye and skill for detail!

 

[terryjones1]

The door will be on the right side of the trailer. I know that it is hard to see; but, it is marked "Entry" in red.

 

[terryjones1]

list deleted

 

[bdosborn-SMB]

The door will be on the right side of the trailer. I know that it is hard to see; but, it is marked "Entry" in red.

You might think about a door in the rear. That way the sleeper next to the wall doesn't have to crawl over the other to get out in the middle of the night.
Bruce

 

[terryjones1]

The only person that gets up in the middle of the night is I.
I, of course, will be sleeping on the side of the bed near the drop floor.

In addition, I use a Bi-PAP machine at night for my sleep apnea. The machine will need to be on the side of the bed.

 

[terryjones1]

I have completed splicing the front and back plywood floor panels. I used 1" #6 flathead screws to hold the splice together. I used RAKA 127/608 Epoxy as a glue. I will not be removing the screws.

In addition, I have coated the bottom of the plywood floor with RAKA 127/608 Epoxy. A picture of the bottom of the plywood showing the splices & the Epoxy coating is shown below.

Next, I will paint the bottom of the plywood floor. I have not yet decided on the paint as yet.

 

[terryjones1]

Shown below is the lower part of the front & back inside of fenders with fiberglass and first coat of Epoxy applied. The front two plywood panels are for front side of fender at the drop floor. The two smaller plywood panels are for the back side of the fender.

Next I will build "backup" plywood for under the floor, where the D4 AGM battery will be mounted.

 

[terryjones1]

I have decided to modify frame to allow for under frame spare tire mount. I hve shown the modification below.

Shown below is the plywood under floor reinforcement for where I will mount the D4 AGM battery. The battery will be mounted under the bed. The bottom side of the floor is shown. The break in the plywood is to allow for steel frame member.

 

[terryjones1]

I have just gotten around to taking pictures of my frame.

The first picture shown below is of the "side mount" attachment of the Rlexiride axle. The bolts used for attachment are 5/8".

The next pictue is of the Flexiride axle spindle. You can also see that I am installing electric brakes.

Next, is a picture of the rear receiver.

Next, is a picture of the right rear leveling jack. I installed 4 leveling jacks in all.

Next is a picture of the steel framing for the drop floor. Notice that I have set back the floor from the central drop to where the bed will be.

Next, is a picture of the right front stabilizer jack.

Next is picture of front jack (folded).

Next is pictue of front jack in down position.

Next is picture of frame looking towards the rear.

Next is picture looking towards front.

Next is picture of frame still on leveling jacks

Next is picture of frame on the ground. The clearance from bottom of drop floor to ground is 9". As I add weight, I expect the clearance to be 8". If it doesn't, I will adjust the Flexiride axle.

Next is picture of frame taken at an angle.

I next plan to start installing the plywood floor.