The Big Pink, Foamie !

You’ll notice the bottom “Membrane” which is a plastic sheet placed underneath so they don’t have to take the time and expense to properly undercoat the bottom . It takes them much less time to throw a plastic sheet down and build over that ... They don’t even glue it to the floor bottom ... :duh: .... we’ve actually seen many many cases where that plastic sheet HOLDS WATER and moisture in , sometimes like a big bubble underneath FULL of water :eek: ... certain to quickly ROT an untreated floor ... :thumbdown:
 
Doc,
Just to make sure the plastic held water they put 1" of spun fiberglass insulation between the floor and the plastic.
The insulation literally dripped water as I took it out.
 
That’s just Ridiculous huh ???  Who builds these trailers , Idiots .... :roll:

You know , I’ve never run across a pressboard material that absorbs water so readily , then turns so quickly to Oatmeal ... It either has to be the absolute cheapest material they can find , or it is intentionally done to generate service and repair money ... And why there is not even the slightest treatment to make it really waterproof , I cannot logically understand. On my commercial trailer, making floor repairs , the provided flooring that was not damaged , would literally soak up “the Mix” like a sponge ... I’ve never seen a product do that , save a real sponge ... :frightened: And we’ll not even talk of the roof , which seemed designed to fail ... and then there were the revolutionary “dry fit “ windows they boasted of , which also leaked and caused de-lamination of certain wall members ... :thumbdown: Not your Grandpa’s trailer company for sure ... :twisted:
 
While we’re off on commercial trailers ... The other day I was looking at one of those Aluminum sided camper trailers in the rain . I noticed Rain falls from Up to down . All the metal sided buildings we see have the corrugations running vertically up to down . But trailers have the corrugations running side to side ... :eek: If you think about it , that’s much more difficult to drain than a vertical arrangement ... Meaning not only the roof has to be leak free but now , also all the side seams too ... No wonder conventional trailers eventually leak ... :roll:

Ps. Oddly enough , we’ve seen several “construction site” trailer looking buildings with the metal run vertically ... and they seem fine lasting for years outside ... :eek:
 
Doc,
I saw your discussion about drip edge...
here's what I did on the toyhauler
I added a piece of aluminum flashing over the gap where the walls meet the frame across the front of the trailer, and added a plastic piece of inner corner molding (used for Masonite panels, I thnk) over the edge of the metal on the bottom down the sides.
Sorry about the blurry picture.

You might notice "Big Pink yellow" on the underside of the new floor :LOL:
 

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NICE !!! I do now see the need for a good drip edge ..... it solves the floor problem nicely ( if the roof don’t leak ..... ;) )
 
First camping trip of 2016 !
We went to a Tear Jerkers gathering in Va Beach. First time using the new TV, (is the Big Pink really as big as it looks in the picture ?) :shock:

We had a great time and met some really nice people !
 

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Just found this build, Very cool 8) . But did I miss pictures of the finished interior ? I sure would like to see how the inside turned out :pictures: :pictures: :applause: :thumbsup: :beer: Questions, Which HF trailer did you use (weight cap), what size tires did you end up using ?, What is the size of your sub floor structure (LxW) ? Last one , What is the size of the bed area ? Sorry to ask all of this. But it's a long topic (many, many, many, pages) I'm sure that some of the answers are their :NC
 
Hi Rusty,
I'm out of town right now. But I looked through the thread and I don't any recent pix of the inside after finishing the AC install.
There are some before the AC was installed , I'll have to get some when I get back.
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Let's see if I can answer your questions...
Which HF trailer did you use (weight cap) 1175# H.F. Chassis
what size tires did you end up using ? Stock 12"
What is the size of your sub floor structure (LxW) ? 10' 3" x 5' 7"
Last one , What is the size of the bed area ? Queen

10'3" long
67" wide
70" tall
The door is 27"x 54-1/2"x 47
Inside height is 68"
 
Ok, Here's a tour of the interior.
Looking to the left inside the door...
The 2 top switches control the 12VDC LED light and fan.
The bottom ones control the 110 V outside and inside light and fan.
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inside11.jpg

The right side of the queen size bed
 

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In this picture is the 115V lights, DC fan, refrigerator, AC, small heater, and porta Loo
inside 51.jpg

Here's the AC slid back through the door.
inside 11.jpg


Here's the rear storage under the Bed platform. You can see the door on the right side.
storgage4.jpg
 
I really like this build! I started out avoiding curves, but at this point now, I'm thinking of building something like this. Ive been reading this thread, and the other related thread as well. Really just a great little camper. And I think I can get my kerfing right on my first build. I've seen a few different jig/setup methods used for it, looks totally do-able. Great camper here. :D
 
Peel , you should have no trouble by following procedures others have successfully done , and if you do , remember we’re here to Help ... ;)
 
Just checkin into the forum...
Still working on lil Pink, and starting plans for The Big Pink Adventure from Virginia to North Dakota.
Tac
 
Tac, always Great to hear from you !!! Bon Voyage !!! :thumbsup: 8)
 
Tim, safe travels. Missed your build on Lil Pink! Is it Bike time out there?

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 

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