The Coddiwompler

[eLink]

Welcome to the build journal for The Coddiwompler!
(Coddiwomple (v.) Origin: English Slang Word. Definition: To travel in a purposeful manner towards a vague destination.)
I figure that it is time for me to stop over-thinking the design and begin the actual building! My progress will be slow, because I also have a ton of other projects that need to be done around the house. But, I hope to get this done in about a year... maybe in time for the 2020 ski season.

The design is based on the Generic Benroy, and it will be 5' wide x 9' long, plus 12 inches of over-tongue storage. It will be 4'-6" tall with 45" cabin head-height.
It will be built on the NT Ironton 5x8 trailer with the typical modifications: Frame width will be cut to 58", Leaf springs will moved back about 6 inches with axle positioned above the spring, tongue extension bar will be added, and larger wheels.
I'm leaning toward solid 3/4" walls for simplicity, but the roof and floor will be insulated. The interior surfaces will be just finished plywood, with minimal, or no exposed hardware, trim or fasteners.

I just received the trailer from Northern Tools. My nearest store is like 2000 miles away in Ohio or something, so it had to be shipped. $198 big ones! They did throw in a $50 gift card! But I am finding that to be useless because none of the tools I'm interested in can be shipped to CA. Oh well.

I'll post my next batch of photos when I have the frame built.

Enjoy!

 

[soapcreek]

Good luck and look forward to seeing your progress.


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[redbicycle]

Order some wiring or a spare tire or sandpaper from Northern tool. $50 is consumable items is easy on a trailer build.


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[eLink]

Fun with Sketchup 2019. It now has solid section fills and line styles!!

 

[eLink]

Started chopping the cross-members to reduce width of trailer to 58 inches. I cut an inch off of both ends, and re-drilled the bolt holes. In retrospect, I should have cut 2 inches from one end only to reduce the amount of re-drilling.

I think I am close to finishing the design. I increased the height from 54" to 60". I'm a big dude and I need the headroom!
I have also decided that I need 42" high doors because I would hate having to crouch to see out the windows, and I prefer not bonking my head all the time. I got a price from Challenger for almost $700 each! So I guess will be building them myself. They will look better anyway. I also re-positioned the door to allow me to more easily sit and swivel into the cabin.

 

[Tony Latham]

Keep the bottom of the door opening halfway up the mattress so that when you are sitting there your but won’t be on the door frame.

[emoji106]

Tony


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[eLink]

Thanks Tony. I am going to set the door sill at about 2 1/2 inches above the floor... maybe lower if I add an interior doorstop, which, I guess, will have a 5/8" lip. I was considering a 4" folding mattress, but If the door sill bites into the legs too much I suppose I'll have to find a thicker one.

Here is my sidewall/ door sill detail, kinda cobbled together from all the information found in these forums...

 

[KCStudly]

Nice illustrations! Welcome to the mad world of TD building.

 

[Tony Latham]

If you are planning on using the same Trim-lok that I am, you’ll need more gap. They say that full compression will cause the seal to fail and recommend 30-50%.

Take a look at my build log- “#4”.

T

 

[QueticoBill]

I would rethink that channel trim at botyom of wall. Seems like an invitation to water to collect and rot plywood wall. Anyway to have skin outside of channel?

Also, im on a long pause building on the NT trailer, think about how to compensate for side rails proud of cross rails. I'm stopping bottom ply inside side rails and running a dado down framing to clear bolt heads.

 

[eLink]

If you are planning on using the same Trim-lok that I am, you’ll need more gap. They say that full compression will cause the seal to fail and recommend 30-50%.

Take a look at my build log- “#4”.

T

Good call! I don't really want to add more trim to widen the gap. Maybe I could use the smaller 'D' shaped seal.

I would rethink that channel trim at botyom of wall. Seems like an invitation to water to collect and rot plywood wall. Anyway to have skin outside of channel?

Also, im on a long pause building on the NT trailer, think about how to compensate for side rails proud of cross rails. I'm stopping bottom ply inside side rails and running a dado down framing to clear bolt heads.

QB, I'm using your build journal as a reference for the NT trailer. I look forward to seeing more!

Yeah, I'm also a bit concerned about the bottom edge, but it's been done before. It's not shown in my detail, but there will be a layer of weather seal under the aluminum trim. And as a second line of defense, the plywood will get some sort of polyurethane coating.

For the gap over the cross-rails I was just going to add some thin ply strips. Then again, I may omit the bottom sheet of ply and insulation altogether.

 

[QueticoBill]

Well, I'm flattered, thank you. And I'm in process of retiring and getting back to build is a priority. And in moving, I put a temporary deck on trailer and towed it 800 miles - my one and only excursion.
Kept stopping and feeling hubs to see if ok. Never more than slightly warm. Very delighted.

As a rule for outdoors construction, I try to never rely on sealants as a first line of defense against watter. Plan it to drain.

And I have all but decided to make my cabin removable. Might build a utility trailer box to go on trailer. Might move to NTs aluminum trailer. Just options.

Looking forward to your build.

 

[noseoil]

Horrible Freight sells a good laser thermometer which is what I use to "ping" the hubs, brakes & tires on my truck & trailers. Digital readout & pretty slick to use. Much better than by hand (less road grime).

 

[QueticoBill]

Cool! Who knew. Now if I can figure out what temps are OK and what are not. SOmehow I knew with my fingers on the hub that it was fine. 100 F?

 

[PhilipE-SKO]

Cool! Who knew. Now if I can figure out what temps are OK and what are not. SOmehow I knew with my fingers on the hub that it was fine. 100 F?

Properly adjusted wheel bearings will run just a little above outside air temp. Maybe 20 degrees max. Anything above that 20 degree mark will lead into problems no to far down the road. The higher the temps. The faster the bearing grease starts breaking down. When it breaks down all sorts of expensive problems occur.

At a place I used to work at. A temp gun was used on to check bearing conditions. We marked new bearing temps on motor casings. When temps went above 50 degree over new bearing temps. That motor had the bearings replaced.

A temp gun is a very use full tool.

 

[swoody126]

don't forget to check the temps of the tires

should not be too hot to hold the back of your hand on them

sw

 

[eLink]

I've toyed around with this design enough!
Getting ready to release the CAD files to the CNC milling shop...
A lot more pieces/parts than I thought!

 

[eLink]

This week I will be picking up my parts from the CNC shop! Can't wait to see how it turned out!
Meanwhile, I thought I would upload the latest design images.

 

[S. Heisley]

That's going to be a beautiful teardrop!

Just a word to the wise, other builders have found it difficult if not impossible to put a glass window into a curved surface. You may need to move it down to where the wall is flat or nearly so or use some form of plexiglass(?). But then, that may be what you have planned. (I haven't read your entire thread.) As a plus, plexiglass is shatterproof.

 

[eLink]

Thanks Sharon!
I think I'm going to order a pre-cut and curved polycarbonate sheet from a plastics shop. It will be mounted with a Trim-Lok gasket.