The Coddiwompler

[KCStudly]

I'm enjoying your build!

 

[lfhoward]

There's a hiking trail nearby with old farm and construction equipment strewn around.
Maybe this old trailer can be repurposed into a new camper!

This seems random but I just saw your post and it reminded me of something else I'd seen lately. That trailer chassis looks like it is a 100-year old World War I era trailer! The wheels and hubs match this one on the military vehicles forum, Steel Soldiers:

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/i-bought-a-100-year-old-army-trailer-today.195912/

 

[eLink]

This seems random but I just saw your post and it reminded me of something else I'd seen lately. That trailer chassis looks like it is a 100-year old World War I era trailer! The wheels and hubs match this one on the military vehicles forum, Steel Soldiers:

Looks very similar. Next time I'm up there I'll look for some identifying marks.

 

[eLink]

I picked up the new axle and I'm very pleased with the quality and fit. Feeling much more confident with this one, especially with the brakes!

Trying out a few different wood finishes for the interior...
The piece in the foreground was done with done with General Finishes' "High Performance Satin" water-based poly. It looks okay, but it doesn't do much to enhance the grain. I found it to be much clearer than the Varathane brand, which looks a bit whitewashed.
For the trap door in the middle: To bring out the grain pattern, I used natural stain (oil based), and, once it dried completely, applied three coats of water poly. Adds subtle warmth and a soft sheen. It really makes the plywood end-grain "pop"!
The last piece has three coats of oil-based poly. Nice color and very durable feeling, but I don't like the sheen it produces. Also, it seems to attract dust particles and left a lot of bubbles. This requires a clean environment, a lot more care and a lot more time for application.
Everything else shown here is unfinished.

My favorite is the stain/poly combo. I'll apply that on the rest of the interior. I may use the oil-based for just the galley.

 

[eLink]

I got the tongue box sliders built (props to Tony's book for reference). I used 1/2" ply for the panels instead of 1/4" because I had the scraps on hand. Just had to rabbet the top and bottom. They work really nicely!
I'm guessing that the track grooves and rail need to remain unfinished, right?
It wasn't until I installed them that I realized my design faux pas... there is no way to "pull" the doors shut. They must be "pushed" shut from the opposite side. I might carve in some thumb depressions later.

I forgot that I am going to need access to those pocket screw holes so I had to gouge out bits of the ledger. No one will see it.

 

[Kim Armstrong]

Nice build! I've got the same trailer you have and looking at changing axles and wheels. You mind telling me the specs on your axle? Did you use the stock springs? Thanks

 

[eLink]

Nice build! I've got the same trailer you have and looking at changing axles and wheels. You mind telling me the specs on your axle? Did you use the stock springs? Thanks

Thank you Kim!

Here you go...
Axle Capacity: 2K
Spindle: Straight
Lubrication: EZ-Lube
Camber: None
Hub Face: 72"
Spring Center: 56.75" (Important: I cut my trailer frame width by 2")
Hubs: Electric Self-adjust
Bolt Pattern: 5 on 4.5
Spring Seat: Underslung, fixed.

I am keeping the stock springs (for better or worse).

 

[Kim Armstrong]

Thanks for the info. Will be following your build.

 

[cmrcmk]

Things are looking good! I hope you're happy with the stain/seal choice once the entire interior is done. I'm a bit anxious to commit to an interior finish because I'm worried a sample will look great but en masse it'll be wrong.

Where did you get your axle from?

 

[eLink]

Things are looking good! I hope you're happy with the stain/seal choice once the entire interior is done. I'm a bit anxious to commit to an interior finish because I'm worried a sample will look great but en masse it'll be wrong.

Where did you get your axle from?

Thanks! I'm anxious to get the interior finished as well, but I keep getting sidetracked with work and other projects around the house.

I recommend testing out various finishes and application techniques on scraps before committing. For example, I did not plan on having a "rusticated" looking headboard finish, but settled on it after a failed stain application. This particular stain should have been lightly wiped on/off with rags rather than brushed on.

I should have mentioned, the axle is a Dexter, purchased from Redneck Trailer.

 

[eLink]

Finally got the walls glued and screwed...

Got the laminate installed!

The lower skirt portions of the walls were coated with fence post paint prior to attaching to the floor.
Here are the final pieces of skirting installed at the front.

 

[MickinOz]

Mate - that's some seriously beautiful cabinet making.

 

[eLink]

I was originally going to use a Cook Partner stove, but was having a hard time deciding how to fit it in. Instead, I opted for a drop-in cooktop from Dometic. It's less expensive and allows a more custom look.

I came up with this funky tab on the back side of the drawer box. One latch to keep it closed and one to hold it open while in use. Am I over-thinking this? Is there another way to do this?

 

[eLink]

Mate - that's some seriously beautiful cabinet making.

Thank you!

 

[lfhoward]

Wow your build is really coming along. It’s a beautiful design and I agree with the previous poster about the quality cabinet work. I know how house projects can take precedence and delay a trailer build! Keep on keeping on!

 

[eLink]

Wow your build is really coming along. It’s a beautiful design and I agree with the previous poster about the quality cabinet work. I know how house projects can take precedence and delay a trailer build! Keep on keeping on!

Thank you!
It's gonna get tougher in the next few months too. We decided to put our house on the market and I have to finish the landscaping!
Finally finished this fence...

 

[eLink]

This is a bit of a milestone: got the headliner for the storage box installed.
I figured I would start here to get the hang of it, before moving on to the main roof.
It wasn't too difficult to bend the 1/8" ply to this 12" radius. But I imagine that it will be much more difficult to do the 6" radius bends at the bottom!
I might try soaking those before attempting the bend.

 

[erfnie]

I was originally going to use a Cook Partner stove, but was having a hard time deciding how to fit it in. Instead, I opted for a drop-in cooktop from Dometic. It's less expensive and allows a more custom look.
163237
I came up with this funky tab on the back side of the drawer box. One latch to keep it closed and one to hold it open while in use. Am I over-thinking this? Is there another way to do this?
163238

How are you supplying the gas? That might be a factor in how you latch it. A regular cabinet latch seems to hold it shut pretty well, but I also found these that we might try instead.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R7891C8/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_image_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Our drawer stays open pretty well by itself because the quick connect gas line goes in the back.

You have a very nice build going. Love the craftsmanship!

 

[eLink]

How are you supplying the gas? That might be a factor in how you latch it. A regular cabinet latch seems to hold it shut pretty well, but I also found these that we might try instead.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R7891C8/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_image_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Our drawer stays open pretty well by itself because the quick connect gas line goes in the back.

You have a very nice build going. Love the craftsmanship!

Thanks for the compliments!
For a more "built-in" concept, the gas line will be hard-plumbed with a flexible hose and a hoop for slack.
But it looks like I have another challenge: the PD4045 sticks out more than I thought. The stove drawer will have to be open at the back to fit around it. But I think I have found a way to make the bolt latches work.
Another alternative I found was a drawer slide with a lock-in/lock-out feature. Expensive though.

 

[eLink]

Got the headliner in today. But there were lots of lessons learned.
It was supposed to be easy... front edge fits into slot, add a bead of glue to the wall ledge and staple from front to rear. The rear edge then gets glued and stapled to ledger.

I think my biggest mistake was not having a helper. Once the glue was on I switched into panic mode and several things happened:
Missed on my first staple.

Forgot to check the staple depth setting. I think many of them went right through!

Had a really hard time getting the rear edge to stay down. Got a few more shiners in the process (thankfully this area will get hidden though).

The ceiling kept popping off the ledge, probably allowing the glue to prematurely set up before I could staple it down. Hence the gap. Not the tight joint I was hoping for! Guess I will be caulking that joint after all.

Splintering from the staples popping and being pushed back in.

Big sigh.