The Memorial F150 Craptor. A semi foamie camper shell camper

[olddawgsrule]

Numbers work! I just bought the 30a unit! Thank you for bringing it to my attention!

No problem. I have not tested mine, but on paper it looks right. Test yours soon so if it is non functional with your Lifepo4 you can return it. I am over the return period I am sure.

What size panels are you using? I went with 300w just becuse it was the biggest I could afford that would fit space wise. I mean I could fork over for a 1200w kit but need WAY more battery, and they would be rigid panels that need a LOT more roof than my camper shell provides etc...

I also need to find a compact 110v charger for the lifepo4 so I can charge off of my generator if I end up needing to...

Honestly, if you say you can run your DC fridge for 3+ days on a 60 amp hour battery, I don't see why my power needs aren't met for 3 days between drives or charges with my 200 amp hour battery...

I only have 120w solar suitcase. It's just enough for my needs. Here in the Nor'east I'm more reliant on the DC/DC charging, but have put the panel out. Far too many trees around here to mount on the truck (and keep the angle) so suitcase was my choice.

Honestly, not so sure you need that generator unless your planning a weeks stay with no exploring.. I saw you went with the 20a unit, I did the 30a because it replaces everything I've used within a couple + hours (DC/DC wise). We stop so much as we move along that size fits nicely. My old 20a (now installed) is fine yet it just needs that much more driving to get me charged up.Should have the unit here later today and installed by mid next week. I'll post ya up once in and running.

I agree! That 200a LiFePo should be quite sufficient! Well unless that AC gets turned on. Something else I don't have to worry about and something I work very hard to avoid, camping in high heat! Blue Ridge surprised me as in it wasn't the heat that got to us, the humidity did us in! We drove to PA to get away from it!!

 

[dbhost]

I honestly don't expect any requirement for the generator unless I'm having to run the air conditioner because of the main issue it issue is AC on solar will drain the battery so fast I won't be able to really use it. Having said that if I had 4 400 and power lifepo4 batteries and 1200 W of solar yeah I wouldn't have any qualm whatsoever of just leaving the generator out.

Unfortunately 80 amp charge controllers and DC to DC chargers are hard to get.

I wasn't thinking about the rate of charge from from DC to DC so much as I was trying to match the factory included charge controller that came with my 300 W solar suitcase.

I am probably going to cable from the battery to the DC to DC charger with 0 or maybe 2 gauge cable so I can easily upgraded to 40 amps or more if I want to. And it is entirely possible that I might just pick up one of the 40 amp models.

For the DC to DC charger connection it looks like I'm going to need 4 gauge wire to run from under the hood along the frame back to the camper. A total run of about 15 feet coming over across down and then backup.

Well 4ga wire is kind of expensive I found most jumper cable sets are made with 4 gauge wire though and a Cheap set of 20' 4 gauge jumper cables is actually a 3rd of the price of just bare wire so guess which way I'm gonna go...

I am just starting the new job after uh after losing my old one and it is in my wife be my wife so I can't really get away from Houston metro for a while anyway, and to keep what sanity I've got left I need some way of getting away from that house..

 

[bdosborn-SMB]

Well 4ga wire is kind of expensive I found most jumper cable sets are made with 4 gauge wire though and a Cheap set of 20' 4 gauge jumper cables is actually a 3rd of the price of just bare wire so guess which way I'm gonna go...

Take a look at how thick the insulation is when you cut the jumper cable, the Chinese ones are notorious for having super thick insulation and skinny wire. Jumper cables aren't like your father's jumper cable anymore.
Bruce

 

[dbhost]

Well 4ga wire is kind of expensive I found most jumper cable sets are made with 4 gauge wire though and a Cheap set of 20' 4 gauge jumper cables is actually a 3rd of the price of just bare wire so guess which way I'm gonna go...

Take a look at how thick the insulation is when you cut the jumper cable, the Chinese ones are notorious for having super thick insulation and skinny wire. Jumper cables aren't like your father's jumper cable anymore.
Bruce

You are probably right.

Probably best off just going to Lowes, or Home Depot and getting some 4ga by the foot...

 

[olddawgsrule]

Well 4ga wire is kind of expensive I found most jumper cable sets are made with 4 gauge wire though and a Cheap set of 20' 4 gauge jumper cables is actually a 3rd of the price of just bare wire so guess which way I'm gonna go...

Take a look at how thick the insulation is when you cut the jumper cable, the Chinese ones are notorious for having super thick insulation and skinny wire. Jumper cables aren't like your father's jumper cable anymore.
Bruce

You are probably right.

Probably best off just going to Lowes, or Home Depot and getting some 4ga by the foot...

Or to the next swap meet!

 

[dbhost]

Well 4ga wire is kind of expensive I found most jumper cable sets are made with 4 gauge wire though and a Cheap set of 20' 4 gauge jumper cables is actually a 3rd of the price of just bare wire so guess which way I'm gonna go...

Take a look at how thick the insulation is when you cut the jumper cable, the Chinese ones are notorious for having super thick insulation and skinny wire. Jumper cables aren't like your father's jumper cable anymore.
Bruce

You are probably right.

Probably best off just going to Lowes, or Home Depot and getting some 4ga by the foot...

Or to the next swap meet!

Never seen bulk wire, particularly large diameter wire, for sale at the swap meet. I have seen all kinds of crazy stuff at the Swap Meet, just not wire like that.

I stumbled across a price drop, It's not a suitcase, but I came across a 600w solar panel, wire, and charge controller kit for just over $300.00 on Amazon today. I already have the 300w suitcase though, awfully tempting to double the charging. Honestly when I do end up building the foamie, I want to stuff 1200w on it, and enough battery to not worry about running a 5K BTU AC 24x7 if I have to.

 

[olddawgsrule]

Never seen bulk wire, particularly large diameter wire, for sale at the swap meet. I have seen all kinds of crazy stuff at the Swap Meet, just not wire like that.

I stumbled across a price drop, It's not a suitcase, but I came across a 600w solar panel, wire, and charge controller kit for just over $300.00 on Amazon today. I already have the 300w suitcase though, awfully tempting to double the charging. Honestly when I do end up building the foamie, I want to stuff 1200w on it, and enough battery to not worry about running a 5K BTU AC 24x7 if I have to.

You buy that solar panel and you'll have more on your camper than I do on my garage!! LOL

 

[dbhost]

Never seen bulk wire, particularly large diameter wire, for sale at the swap meet. I have seen all kinds of crazy stuff at the Swap Meet, just not wire like that.

I stumbled across a price drop, It's not a suitcase, but I came across a 600w solar panel, wire, and charge controller kit for just over $300.00 on Amazon today. I already have the 300w suitcase though, awfully tempting to double the charging. Honestly when I do end up building the foamie, I want to stuff 1200w on it, and enough battery to not worry about running a 5K BTU AC 24x7 if I have to.

You buy that solar panel and you'll have more on your camper than I do on my garage!! LOL

I haven't pulled the trigger yet there are absolutely no reviews on this setup set up but I'm pretty sure it's just generic Chinese panels and a generic Chinese controller the idea here is eventually I want to get to a setup that is self sustaining as far as all of my electrical needs including running an air conditioner again remember I'm traveling In the Gulf coast region where it is very hot and very humid even overnight so in order for me to sleep I need to have an air conditioning space

 

[dbhost]

So here is the next dumb question, not relevant to the Memorial camper build but for the Project M style pop up. Need to come up with a project name for it, but I figure, lookinga at the Amazon product page at https://amzn.to/3DcNENu...

Each of the 4 300w semi flexible panels measures 46.5 x 21.3 x 0.11 inches.

I am figuring on a 10' long roof from the overcab all the way to the tailgate. Possibly 12' if I can figure out how to fully support my weight cantilevered over the cab in the sleeper. In some ways this might be easier to do if I made it a slide in instead of a shell type camper, but more on that later...

I should have WAY more than enough room on the roof for those 4 300w panels.

The same kit comes with 2 40amp charge controllers. This is where I start my head scratching.

I understand from a wiring perspective, why you might want to go with 2 40s instead of a single 80, and at this point output off this battery REALLY needs to go through an RV breaker panel.

Anyway, I have no clue how to wire this to a battery bank, and doubtless with this much incoming power, I will need a lot more power storage, effectively going with say 3 more of the Chins 200 amp hour Lifepo4 batteries. Yes that is an awful lot of electricity, but look at it this way.

Charge USB for phone, cameras, gimbals, weather radio and tablet. Yes I still have a stand alone emergency / weather radio... I know old school.
Plenty of power for my gaming laptop. 100w usb C power supply is what feeds it.
Fridge
5K BTU Window unit AC should I need to run it overnight, which I would here in TX....
CPAP, that runs overnight.
Cell booster
Furnace fan if I decide to put a small propane, or more likely Diesel heater furnace in the camper
Water pump / hot water heater.

The BIGGEST draw worry I have honestly is the AC.

I REALLY want to go camping / fishing in the summer in the south, mostly an excuse to get out and about.

I need to feel out how they do things, but I might end up actually taking leave time and, well not snow birding, but more like reverse of that whatever you call it, but I may end up taking leave in the summer to get out of TX when it is unbearably hot...

Anyway, I digress badly. This is not where we are yet. For now I slide the AC into a tailgate block off plate thing that allows me to adapt the AC to the truck bed, and power it with either shore power, or the small generator. The particular AC was chosen because of its ability to be powered by a 1KW inverter generator...

IF the mechanic is good to his word, and we will see, pickup for my truck will be tomorrow. He was given instruction to be VERY thorough and let me know if the truck needed anything else, any rude surprises while he was in there. Flat out that my plan is to leave his shop, go to the house, get the BFGs go to the tire shop that does my installs for me mount and balance the BFGs and see if they want to buy my pull offs, 3 of them are good at least... And 35x12.50/17 used tires are next to impossible to find... but once done, and the business at the tax office is done, I want the confidence in his work, and the inspection / quality of parts that I should be able to turn the key, and head straight to Alaska with no issues.

Of course I need to finish the camper install. So yeah, gotta get that bedrug in there, install the bed / electrical cabinet, and then wire up the connections, test it all out, and maybe, just maybe even run the connections to the alternator. Route the 12V outlet for the back seat into place, install the fridge, throw in the mattress, load up the gear, put on the bedding, Install the giantly over thick gasket that will seat the hatch to the tailgate, install some weather stripping to seal the tailgate so I don't fill the bed of the truck with dust and sand, and then fill it up with gas and go...

Oh, get a good measurment at the top of the camper shell. I need to find parking near my office that has enough height, OR make sure I work remotely on Fridays consistently so I can head out immediately after work and just go...

I want her pic in there somewhere. and this might sound dumb. But I have seen those pillow cases made where they print a photo on them. Probably going to do that and put the pillow in the passenger seat. I know sounds stupid, but I want her along for the trips...

I need to figure out a good basic roadside tool kit, and make sure I have it with me as well... Probably source most of that stuff up at Harbor Freight.

 

[dbhost]

So not gonna happen anytime soon, but here is the overkill deluxe 12v system. Think gee I just won the Powerball what now kind of money situation...

Given the dimensions I listed in my last post per panel, mounting up 1200w of solar easy peasy not a problem.

Get that IN to the camper via most likely a pair of, not sure what those roof penetrations for solar are called, but, you folks should know what I am talking about. Need to figure out some protective sheath for the wires as they will have to flex right along with the canvas as the roof is raised and lowered...

Get the wires down to a control cabinet / closet. where according to the MFG after I had to ask, you would wire them in parallel to the battery bank, or in this case, a positive, and a negative bus bar. So first lug on the hot, and last lug on the ground should be shared by the 40 amp charge controllers. This will be permanently roof mounted, and unless I have no sun at all for days on end, no real need for DC to DC charging, but have it anyway as a failover. Go with a stand alone DC to DC charger at 40 amps.

Upgrade to a 3KW pure sine inverter, and wire it off of the first lug inboard of the charging circuit. At least ONE of the outlets should be run to a dedicated outlet box / extension at the AC, still planning on sticking with the 5K BTU, with the space, as long as I insulate properly that should actually be overkill. Remember solar panels are on the roof so they are taking the direct sunlight instead of the roof. Oh and roof would be coated with Tropicool anyway...

Again we are talking powerball stupid money here, but why not, 4 Chins 400 amp hour Lifepo4 batteries. Yep, 400 amp hours... Yowza! And in parallel so we have 1600 amp hours of reserve at 12v nominal. I do not believe I would need an external monitoring system as these particular batteries have the bluetooth monitoring and app built in... So just monitor on my phone...

Obviously I would need to figure out where in the camper remaining 110v outlets would need to be run to, but also the second lug from the main cable ends should be run run the 12v oulets and USB charging ports. No need for the voltometer versions but it is what i have right now...

Also wire in some house lighting, and a fantastic fan...

With the full camper build where I do not have to sleep in such a confined space, I will have plenty of room to house the 12V fridge in the camper instead of the cab of the truck too...

A guy can dream right?

Yeah I know, massive, and I mean MASSIVE overkill...

 

[GPW]

Dreaming got us here eh ???

 

[dbhost]

I believe the mention of the generator did it. Other than the batteries, it isn't a horrible idea. It is the batteries that ram the cost way up. Mind you, Having my beautiful bride on my health insurance always cut well into my take home pay. The new job they cover my insurance, a first for me. Assuming this new job pans out I should be able to swing it during the camper build, but the question is more, should I actually go with that much power for that small of a camper.

I literally have a 6.5 x what 5.5 floor space to work with and the sides are curved funny.

The idea for that camper build is to have the water tanks against the front wall of the truck bed. No worries about headroom, so just get a tank that makes sense, There are quite a few 24 gallon tanks that would be perfect for the job. A simple cabinet cross wise in the front of the truck bed, with a 3/4" plywood divider above the water tank and some supports to keep the contents above from sagging. There SHOULD in theory be still way more than enough room to build the cabinet to house the batteries and enclose the top before I get to the top of the bed rails. Access to the water tank / pump, and the separate battery compartment should be via probably piano hinged panels at the front (the side toward the tailgate). The 12V fridge should probably sit on the top of the battery compartment, and a closet for things like clothes can be on the other side.

I definately need to spend more time in Sketchup planning it out, But I am thinking about the charging / distribution cabinet immediately above this, doesn't have to be super deep, but will probably end up ending just below cab / overcab sleeper bed height, maybe 8" or so deep to allow room and room for everything to breathe.

A cushioned bench / sofa / futon arrangement should go along the remainder of that side of the truck bed, with an enclosed bottom for storage of various gear, including possibly the port o potty.

The opposite wall should be set up with a cabinet sufficiently tall to be comfortable to work at, and deep enough to hold and use the Coleman stove comfortably, And beneath should be available for storage.

The storage cabinet compartments on the side should be set up with those bungee net retainers instead of doors.

12v LED color change option blah blah blah light strips, preferrable with Bluetooth control and an app can be used for lighting. I have a couple of sets right now that are not bluetooth. oops...

Like I mentioned, ALL of this is down the road starting next year. The existing hi topper truck shell is to get me going NOW instead of later.

Not sure how much I have described as to status on the existing truck shell camper build, but today SHOULD be the day I get her back from the shop, if he was able to get it done on time. Not sure.

However assuming truck comes home today the following needs to be done before the maiden voyage.
#1. Pick up the BFGoodrich 33x12.50/17s, get them mounted and balanced.
#2. Go to tax office and get new tags. PRAY I don't get pulled over before I can get there, I will have the shop receipt and the inspection report so hopefully the police will cut me some slack.
#3. Install bedrug.
#4. Install new Android Auto head unit, and tailgate handle replacement / backup camera.
#5. Install extra thick foam weatherstrip seal between topper hatch and tailgate.
#6. Install tailgate gasket / seal kit so I don't fill the bed of the truck with dust driving down unimproved roads / trails etc...
#7. Route 12v outlet and wiring from back seat to truck bed. Need to remove back seat seatback to gain access to the cab passthrough, the one in the bed is already knocked out. adhere the passthrough for the bed once all wiring passthrough is done.
#8. Drop in / install bed frame and electrical cabinet. Once then are in the truck, screw them together as one solid piece. Drop in mattress. Make up the bed.
#9. Install battery, and wire it all up. DC to DC charging not 100% mandatory right off the bat, but it wouldn't hurt.
#10. Load up. Figuring out storage as I go. Pretty sure the port o potty needs to ride in the back corner of the bed double trash bagged in case of leakage.
#11. Measure total height of the rig. I doubt it would fit, but see if I might POSSIBLY fit in the parking garage at work. Doubt it but worth checking.
#12. Somewhere in there rig up curtains, cut the Reflectix to size. I need curtain fabric that will allow the windows to breathe so I can get air circulation while offering plenty of privacy.

In order to maximize what battery / storage I do have, and I realize I have quite a bit compared to many, I am still going to get one of those insulating covers for the fridge. Especially with it being in the cab, it will need all the help it can get.

My concept here is pull into camp, insure I am reasonably level, deploy the solar panels, set up my tarp / awning and set up the Ensuite. Set up if weather permits the Coleman folding kitchen and my Bass Pro Big Boy chair.

By that time, if I haven't grabbed something to eat en route I will need to break out the stove, propane, cookware and something to cook and make dinner, or if I am lucky enough and gotten an early start, lunch...

My typical trips I am thinking are going to be the 3 day weekend trips every few weeks, with some possibility if 4G or WiFi availability permits it, 5 day weekendish jaunts. For the 5 day ones, that means a couple of days remote working, so I have to set up a workspace and this is where I run into theneed for power for the laptop. Of course the laptop also has a WinTV tuner so if weather is too foul or I just need noise, I have that... Although for most of that I can use my phone...

Longer trips though, with leave time accrued, longer trips are coming, Several 9 day trips per year, if I can manage without driving myself and the dog crazy, drive from here to see my folks in Oregon, or my brother in Oklahoma. I have already told a high school friend of mine to make reservations at our the campground by Detroit Lake for a particular weekend... I can boondock in the mountains, him and his fifth wheel however needs reserations. And it is a good way to get a common spot, I have about maybe 6 families of my old high school friends that are on the invite, we are trying to get schedules for everyone ironed out now...

I am actually VERY anxious to try out the camper shell camper. If this ends up being a one and done kind of thing, great! But I suspect it is going to be a bit more fiddly than I want to do long term.

 

[dbhost]

Well bad news, and something I half expected. The mechanic still doesn't have the old engine out of the truck. Apparently the engine and trans have to come out as one piece as it would appear I spun a main bearing, that must have been the knock I heard. You know what they say, any 20 minute task is only one broken bolt away from being a 3 day ordeal. He has it on the cherry picker, but is unable to get the torque converter unbolted from the flex plate in the truck, so he has to pull the tranny out with the engine. So unbolt the trans for the T case, a couple major electrical connectors need to be disconnected and tucked away for safety, and the cross pipe between the cats has to be pulled and out it all comes.

That should be fun. Pull engine and trans, which does have the advantage of having all breather lines easy to access, and once out, jig it out on engine stands. Yes there are stand jigs that allow you basically rotisserie the assembly, pop the oil pan, pull the bearing caps so he can turn it and unbolt the torque converter. Yay...

Not sure if I mentioned this, but I AM having a high amp alternator and 1/0 primary battery cables. The DC to DC charger at 20 amps, after looking into wire ampacity charts until my eyeballs are spinning counter clockwise it would appear that 12v just like 110v at 20 amps wants a 12ga conductor. Well I am going one up to 10ga. I have material that would work for 1200w but don't want to bother with it yet. DC to DC charging may not even be a vague concern at that point as I should be fully able to go full time on solar.

I do have a 10 ga ATO waterproof fuse holder going immediately off the positive on teh battery. Ring terminal AND joint between wires will be soldered and heat shrunk once I get hands on my friends soldering iron. Mine is a bit too, uh, dainty for the task...

I am starting to worry that I will not have enough time to have the truck done in time for Veterans Day weekend. I may have to either drive the car, which I don't trust for distances like that, or scrap that idea which I am less than thrilled about.

Not sure if I mentioned it above or not, but I got one of those insulating covers for the fridge. I know it seems a bit excessive, but this goes back to the idea of I need to be as efficient as I can with the electrical. I probably have more than I need as long as I am not doing AC, but how would I know?

 

[dbhost]

Okay pieces for side panel to enclose on 3 sides the electrical cabinet are cut, and the first one is glued on and in clamps. I guess I could go Norm Abram and fire up the compressor and drive some pins but nope, not gonna bother. Once this is set, glue on the 2nd piece to fully enclose it, let that glue cure and then trim the board flush. This time I started at the top and am trimming at the bottom. This keeps the stuff being stowed between the compartment and the side of the truck bed from going into the battery compartment and causing problems. This also keeps the back of the compartment, which will be pushed up against the front wall of the truck bed, open for easier routing of wires and maintenance.

All of this labor MAY be for naught. I stumbled upon a nice pop up slide in on Facebook Marketplace. A Sun Lite Eagle 2, a bit long for my 6.5 foot box truck, but not so long I can't make it work. Basically it will require tailgate down. Price is right. Only real issue is AC, or in this case complete lack thereof. And nowhere to really install one unless I rip out the 3 way fridge, which I would do anyway since I have the 12v fridge that is much easier for me to deal with. And the furnace doesn't work. Not sure what is going on there.

Now having said that, it is a good 3.5 hour drive from me, and I need truck ready to go look / get it. It will probably be gone before I can get up there... Wet weight on that camper from the data plaque looks to be 1120 with full 20 gallon fresh, and 20lb propane.

It would definately be more comfortable for me to get stuck inside and working in that camper than my truck shell camper. However I would still be dependent upon a privy shelter for bathroom, or at least shower, I can use the port o potty in the aisle and stow it back in its cabinet.

Not sure if this would be a go, or no go thing...It would slow my right now roll down a bit, BUT speed up my down the road roll a LOT... Not entirely certain sticks aluminum and staples are the way to go, especially since I will be offroading it, at least lightly, and my weight will put a lot of stress on that overcab...

 

[dbhost]

Just FWIW, I got the insulating cover for the fridge in today and installed it, even here in the house it reduces cycle frequency for the fridge...

Got the sides finished for the electrical cabinet That is done. I got impatient and since that side won't be seen, I simply laid down the glue, and rammed some screws in to hold the bottom piece. I could have used brad nails but this will absolutely never just wiggle out...

Grabbed a set of travel bottles for shampoo, conditioner etc... I use Nioxin hoping to try to keep whatever hair I have, and a bar soap holder for some Dr. Bronners bar soap... Yay at least the soap is biodegradeable.

I need to figure out shampoo / conditioner that will work and I shouldn't worry about just letting it run...

And it is time to shower, and get to bed. Another work week is about to smash me in the face.

 

[dbhost]

Just to complicate matters. I may be orphaning this project entirely. Sorry folks. Stay tuned though.

I have found a good condition Sun Lite Eagle, mid 90s vintage but in good, not great condition, for what I am hoping is a reasonable take home price. His asking is a bit high, way high if I were in Michigan or Wisconsin where there seems to be a glut of these campers.

Assuming we come to a reasonable deal, I will need to replace the propane compartment door, and remove the bed enclosure doors. There are doors on either side that allegecly close off the exposed bed area where you can stow stuff. Unless I am rockin a 90s Dodge half ton with a longbed, that won't work anyway so flap door delete it is. The propane compartment door should lend itself well to foamie fix construction, I just need to make sure I have louvers near the bottom to allow any possibly leaked propane to escape (Propane sinks)

Intended mods are...

#1. Integrate the solar, 200 amp hour Lifepo4, and DC to DC charger I have the 7 pin harness which I believe is one route OEM took to provide DC to DC charging but I need better control of voltages and higher amp capacity than that harness can handle. Going with 4ga and Anderson connectors to make my connections at the rear bumper / double up for rear jump starter, and potentially handle a cradle and rear winch... Just in case I get incredibly stupid.
#2. Determine best way to integrate GE 5K BTU Window unit AC into the camper. May have to enlarge rear wall window opening and trim it out for through wall installation deleting the window entirely. Should I determine this won't work, that leaves me with going with a Dometic RTX2000, I could in theory go with the 1000, but I think 5K BTU is as small as i want to go.
#3. Since there is only one roof vent / fan in this camper, there is more than enough room even if I go with the Dometic AC to install 1200w of solar panels Each panel is 46.5"x21.3"x.11". Prices and dimensions are coming way down! https://amzn.to/3DIf6TT
#4. Remove the OE torture mattress from the overcab, swap in for now my memory foam twin. Long run, double check the bed dimensions. Rumor has it that it is bigger than queen, but shorter than a king. Like 2 twins side by side. If that is the case, just do what I did tenting and get a 2nd twin that matches and put it in place. and get those, well, look like suspenders straps to keep the fitted sheet tucked under. The current owner has the torture mattress and a 2" medium density foam topper on it. Maybe just put a 2" gel memory foam topper on it and call it good. A lot cheaper for sure...
#5. Reflectix panels for the canvas. Same as with a pop up trailer, that is going to be my biggest thermal weak point, and while reflectix doesn't offer ultra abundant insulation, I have seen reports of folks with these specific campers, in sub zero temps running the furnace and keeping the camper in the 60s with the furnace cycling on and off infrequently... I have no immediate plans to sub zero this thing, but it is nice to think I can if I have to...
#6. Assuming I can figure out how to mount it without damaging the rest of the camper. basically doors that take the space between the sides of the truck bed and the camper, to replace the function of the OEM units, but a foot and a half further back into the truck, OR a foamie enclosure on both sides extending to the end of the camper with access doors. Gotta have some place for my fishing gear!
#7. I can use my 2 step home step stool for now. But make no mistake, I want proper telescoping steps. The Brophy 3 step telescoping truck camper step looks good, but might actually still be a bit tall between stair treads. Might have to go with the 4 step.

Depending on if the truck squats with the camper on it. I have had that much and more in the back before with no notable squat but the truck is a LOT older now... I might install Ride Rite air bags to level it back up.

Remember my priorities here are what I am struggling to keep up with. I am keeping my old half ton truck. Period. It was the truck we got when we were dating and were talking about having a family. This truck has been with my wife and I through to the end, and if I can, I am keeping it until my end.

This means for the camper use, I must be weight sensitive on the camper, but I also want a camper that can provide me the comforts I want. Most slide in campers are either WAY too heavy, or WAY too expensive. (I would LOVE a 4 wheel campers rig, but don't want to shell out 30K after options).

I need something that will not severely hinder me off road on MILD off road trails. I am not going to take this down any super wild trails like I would have my old Jeep, but I am not sticking to the pavement either. Center of gravity should be low, and yes my departure angle will be impacted, but not as much as you would think. I will still smash the trailer hitch before I get to the camper...

I know I am going to have to give up some built in comforts to get weight savings. NO slides, no built in bathroom, no built in oven. And in the case of this camper, no built in water heater. I have all of those things from my tenting days at the ready. Joolca Double Ensuite, with flushing port o potty and Camplux 1.5GPM instant hot shower / water heater. I can the ability and probably will plumb it back into the camper so the sink has hot water too.

I will want / need to do a DIY awning setup. I would VERY much like to find a way to make the covered space 10x10, so that I can use the Ozark Trail shade walls that are meant for a 10x10 EZ Up style canopy to enclose the space in breezy but not terribly windy conditions... I.E. beach camping...

Assuming everything works as it should, and the deals go through as THEY should, unfortunately due to mechanics / supply chain delays, I will not be able to do Ren Fest when I wanted. But will still likely be there just on a different weekend.

The good thing is, if this camper deal falls through, I still have the truck shell camper done, just needs to be thrown into the truck. But long term, I definately want a standing room camper... And that puts me back into design and build of a full on pop up foamie.

Either way, looks like I win so that is a good thing I guess.

 

[GPW]

" I know I am going to have to give up some built in comforts to get weight." And space ... All depends on which " comfort level" you're looking for ... and how long and where you'll be camping ...

 

[dbhost]

" I know I am going to have to give up some built in comforts to get weight." And space ... All depends on which " comfort level" you're looking for ... and how long and where you'll be camping ...

I am aiming for comfortable, just not overstuffed armchair smoking a cigar and drinking scotch in an old estate library comfortable.

The intent here is, and has always been 100% to live OUT of the camper, not in, but have a place to retreat to in case of inclement weather hitting me. And part of me wants to stick with the truck shell camper and just whip out the backpacking stove and do rehydrateable meals on lousy weather days.

As far as duration goes, Typical trips will be frequent start with remote work to start long weekends early and end them late sort of thing. So think 5 days-ish. Vacation time trips would be much longer. 1 week plus weekends, and 2 weeks plus weekends several times / year. Oddly enough, my company REQUIRES we take leave time, and give a generous amount. I have been with them less than 3 weeks and they are already asking about my Holiday plans. Thanksgiving off. Wed before and friday after thanskgiving work remote. No leave time. So that I can leave for the beach Tuesday after work with the Dog, set up and make sure 4G / 5G hotspot works, Work Wednesday, enjoy beach, make my Thanksgiving dinner on the beach on Thurs, "Work" remote Friday, although I doubt anything productive will happen. Probably schedule training videos that day... Spend weekend on beach, come home Sunday, clean up gear and truck, get ready for next trip. Lather, rinse repeat...

On the AtemPower charge controller / DC to DC charger and Lifepo4 batteries. I did set my 20 amp up just solar to test, and everyone that says this unit will not turn on to start charging until the battery is down to 12.4v is full of fertilizer. Works fine. Battery was at 13.2v, charged it to 13.6 (per spec 100%), Cycled off, Ran fridge on it, fridge pulled, sun shined, charger did its thing, battery still at 100%...

Happy enough with it, but want more / faster DC to DC charging in case solar is just awful, and it was less than ideal today mind you, overcast day and all, and I have a friend that wants one of the 20 amp units, and Amazon had the 40 amp on sale for less than the 30, so I got a 40 amp unit, and some 4ga wire heading my way to hook it up.

That also means that if I can get a couple of SAE to MC4 adapters, or just convert the cable end to MC4, an MC4 parallel adapter and a second Dokio 300w suitcase panel, I already have the controller / wiring for the rest of it in the camper woo hoo!

We are still not quite done with the truck, not super convinced he is going to make it before the weekend. So my choice of which camper may end up being made for me. The guy on FB Marketplace is not going to hold that camper forever. I might have to end up just going to take a road trip to get one. Apparently these are all over the place in Michigan, Wisconsin, up that way... Just means more of a road trip for me. But maybe I can learn to be happy with more money in my bank account and less room inside my truck camper. And then just do the foamie build like I really should...

 

[dbhost]

Got a call yesterday from the shop. Another delay. The subcontracted shop doing the injectors was not getting full flow out of them, needed more time for another dunk in the ultrasonic cleaner, a bit more aggressive solvent etc... I am usually really chill on delays but this has pushed right up against Veterans day and I still don't have my truck. I was trying to be away from here for Veterans day weekend. I am REALLY frustrated at this point as I am 2 weeks overtime...

 

[dbhost]

So update. 6 of the 8 fuel injectors are in, and installed, the remaining 2 should be picked up and installed tomorrow. That leaves the rail, and upper intake left to be installed, the CAI tube is no fun getting back into place. I should know, I installed it orignally. Lots of shimmy to get it there... THEN it can go to the air box... But I digress... Then he double checks everything, all the remaining torque on the fasteners double checked, fluids double checked electrical connections double checked, prime the fuel system, check that for leaks, then kick it over and pray it comes to life. Make any final adjustments and then it goes for the road test / drive cycle... State inspection, then dump the initial break in oil, fill up the oil again. This load will be in the crank case only 1K miles BTW then I change it AND the filter again.

IF all goes well, I should be picking it up tomorrow night, or Friday early. Go get the tags, get the tires done, and head up to check out that camper Friday night. As in drive up that general area, Camp out in the truck overnight, and head on in during the day so I can see the camper. And either make the offer, or run for the hills. Either way, I should be ready to camp with either the camper shell build, or the slide in pop top for Thanksgiving.

Something occurred to me though, and it sounds wierd, but hear me out. Canvas on these pop tops goes bad eventually. Foamy pop top sides? That would certainly give me the option to have a pass through for a Window AC as well... Probably a stupid idea, but hey, it's mine!