"The X-Cubed" C.T.T.

[zkengle]

I'm in PA, and PA is a pain to register and title a homebuilt. So I'm just registering it through Maine as a non-resident, just as I did with the X-II. No inspections... just paperwork. I was never bothered by the police before, and everyone I know who has done the same has never been bothered. If a cop were to hassle me about it, well then I guess I'd have no choice but to comply and jump through the hoops. Or play dumb. Maybe one, then the other.

However, regarding the trailer width and fender laws...

In PA, the fenders must cover the full width of the tread... but there's no requirement to cover the full cross-section of the tire. With 8-1/2" fenders (79-3/4" total) the bulge of my tires will stick out slightly, but the treads will be completely covered, as per PA Code. If I were to get pulled over and hassled, I would definitely stand and argue that 80" is 80", and 79-3/4" is <80". I've been doing a lot of research on Jeep forums and reading through the PA Code

 

[zkengle]

After a miserable failure of a night last night (AutoCAD crashed on my laptop so I couldn't get info from my 3D model, and then nothing else seemed to go right) I was pretty happy with tonights progress. Last major construction item is built!!

The operable roof... built in place just like the galley hatch....

Exterior skinned...

Still need to flush-trim and sand all the edges, and cut the support trim pieces for the acrylic panels, but its time for bed.

 

[zkengle]

Tonight was the first time I ever worked with acrylic. I was pretty nervous at first, reading horror stories about chipping and cracking. I bought 1/4" cell cast acrylic, which isn't the cheapest thing to begin with, and then shipping the 3 sheets was pricey as well.

After some research, I went to Home Depot and picked up a 200 tooth plywood/panel blade for about $15. That thing cut through the acrylic (slowly) like butter. I cut the rear window, the window in the ceiling of the galley, and the front window. Had a few small scraps left over, so I tested the Valspar Frosting spray paint that I picked up. So far its looking good. I'll let it dry overnight and check it out tomorrow. May throw down a third coat for good measure.

Rear and galley ceiling windows (obviously still with the paper on them)....

Interior view of the rear window, and also the speaker enclosure covers that need painted....

 

[Ron Dickey]

It is always cool when your drawing and your craft match. Looks cool you are going to have fun with that trailer.

Ron

 

[zkengle]

It is always cool when your drawing and your craft match. Looks cool you are going to have fun with that trailer.

Ron

Thanks Ron I think this is finally the camper that I've never known that I always wanted to build.

I really loved my first two as well, but third times the charm, right?

Maybe I'll hang onto this one for a while

 

[zkengle]

Think I have my wiring diagram sorted out. Pretty similar to my last build, but with a few new items shown.

 

[Kharn]

No disco ball?

It is a little hard to read the text, what are the two SPDT switches on RF C for?
I'd make the porch lights independent (even if just two SPST switches after RF A), just in case a neighbor asks you to dim their side.

And at the 40amp subwoofer.

 

[zkengle]

No disco ball?

It is a little hard to read the text, what are the two SPDT switches on RF C for?
I'd make the porch lights independent (even if just two SPST switches after RF A), just in case a neighbor asks you to dim their side.

And at the 40amp subwoofer.

No need for a disco ball... the RGB strips are hooked to a music controller, which will make them dance to the beat of the music

Don't need the porch lights to be independent because I'll typically only have them on when getting in and out of the trailer. And if a neighbor might be THAT close to be bothered by a single light, then I'm in the wrong campground.

The two SPDT switches will let me set the lighting in the galley to a few different configurations... only cool white, cool white and blue, cool white and red, only red. The red setting is specifically for late night campfire sessions when we need our night vision to look out for park rangers. The red white and blue cannot all be turned on at the same time.

That 40A is a typo. I think it only needs to be 15A. Need to double check. The subwoofer is 800W/900W max, but it will not be turned up to its full potential. Its only there to add some depth to the audio. I can't stand flat music.

 

[zkengle]

Have two good bits of news to report! My fantastic fan came today, and I finally have the overall trailer height measurement from ground to top of fan - 82"!
At 82", the fan will kiss the weatherstrip at the head of my garage door opening, but by the time the trailer is finished, I bet it settles another 1/2" so I'm good to go!!


Next, on my lunch break I checked my acrylic scrap that I sprayed with the Valspar Frosting last night. The frosting looks consistent and will work perfectly!!

Just for kicks, I taped off half of the scrap and put on another two coats. Should be dry by this evening to get a good comparison.

 

[Kharn]

If the sub's 30amps or less, I'd take it from the PD4045 vs its own fused line. You might also want to consider a switch to turn it on/off, I bet it has a non-zero draw when there is no radio input. 900 watts would be 75 amps (or more, as no amp is 100% efficient) for a 12v system, so you'll really have to detune it considerably to meet your goal.

The frosting looks pretty good, I'd try to scratch it to get an idea of hardness and see if you can apply it during this stage of construction or if you might want to wait until you're almost done to avoid recoating.

 

[zkengle]

If the sub's 30amps or less, I'd take it from the PD4045 vs its own fused line. You might also want to consider a switch to turn it on/off, I bet it has a non-zero draw when there is no radio input. 900 watts would be 75 amps (or more, as no amp is 100% efficient) for a 12v system, so you'll really have to detune it considerably to meet your goal.

You shouldn't be a betting man John. It doesnt need a separate on/off switch because it will be tied into the remote wire of the head unit, just like 99% of amplifiers these days. Its a cheap sub/amp combo, so I'm assuming only 75% efficiency. I was reading more about it, and the amp itself has a 15A fuse, but the 8GA positive wire will need AT LEAST a 40A fuse. As you've done the math, 75A is a lot, and much more than the PD4045 can handle, which is why I have it as a standalone connection. However, as I said, I won't be turning it up so I doubt I'll typically be pulling more than 100W from it (but the option to do so would be nice). It also has a wired remote level dial, and the head unit has built in level control too, so the level control won't be an issue.

The frosting looks pretty good, I'd try to scratch it to get an idea of hardness and see if you can apply it during this stage of construction or if you might want to wait until you're almost done to avoid recoating.

The acrylic windows will be one of the last things installed, just like the doors and fan. Everything needs to be painted inside and out first. I did however need to cut them to size so that they can be installed later. They'll be set aside until the end. Its just nice to know that the acetone and other chemicals in the spray frosting does not eat away and distort the surface of the acrylic. Had it done that, I would need to look for another solution, which is why I tested it now, and not wait until the last minute.

 

[wisdan92]

Any amp install should be hard wired directly from the battery. Running through the power center would cause fuse failures every time the amp pulled high current for the very brief period of time during a deep bass note. That is specifically the reason manufacturers include remote wires to control the on/off function of the amp.

 

[Kharn]

And that's why I'm not including a stereo in my trailer.

 

[zkengle]

And that's why I'm not including a stereo in my trailer.

Its ok... I'll have enough music for everyone

 

[zkengle]

Didn't get too much done tonight, but it feels like I did. Just cut the trim pieces that support the acrylic panels, and cut the last two acrylic panels to fit the openings. Had things been completely square, it would have made things easier but it wasnt too bad.

The large panels that resemble cardboard are the acrylic panels resting on their support trim.

And a view from the outside...

I'm leaving for Virginia Beach tomorrow to camp out with the Tearjerkers, so you'll be spared of the constant updates for at least a couple days. If I can get back at a decent time on Sunday I'd like to get some color on the interior so I can move forward with lighting and wiring.

 

[Kharn]

Are you sleeping in the car or a tent?

I'm bummed that we're missing all the good TJ campouts this spring, but my wife's crazy work schedule will slow down this summer right about time the Weekender's done.

 

[zkengle]

Aside from a rain shower tonight, the weather is looking awesome! I'm taking one of my many tents. My friends don't think I know how to set one up anymore.

But after camping in them A LOT up until 2010, I can set up a tent blindfolded with one hand tied behind my back while be attacked by a rabid porcupine. Because Boy Scout.

Although, aside from the tent and sleeping bag, I was wandering around lost while trying to decide what else to take along this weekend. I've definitely been spoiled with the teardrops - everything is always right where you need it. Right now my camping gear is spread out in a million places.

 

[Kharn]

Oh how I know your pain.
I started keeping all of our stuff in clear stackable crates to make it easier.

 

[Junkboy999]

She is looking great Zach.


From the very first pic you posted I was thinking it should have a complete screen in area up front. Like you posted a few pages back. Makes it easier to stand and get dressed.


Keep us posted.

 

[zkengle]

Thanks Terry! If I can get the screen walls for the pop-up section to work right, then it will be sweet to have the ability to stand up!