"The X-Cubed" C.T.T.

[Ron Dickey]

I was pretty disappointed when I found my cross members are 1" too close together for the tire to tuck up underneath. I was thinking of putting it on top of the galley hatch, keeping it in the truck would be too likely to be left at home by accident.

Interesting. My 12" wheel/tire from HF fit (barely) between my trailer cross members.

I just opened up my CAD model for the X-Cubed, and a full-size (15") spare won't fit without moving the trailer cross beams. Although a 12" wheel/tire would fit, and would work in an emergency situation. I might just adjust the cross beams to fit a full-size spare. Either way, I'd like to keep the spare out of the way, but as you mentioned I'll probably forget it if it isn't attached.

A couple weeks ago I went snowboarding and forgot my coat.

I had wondered about that did you put it under the galley or in the center and do you have a safety cable on it incase a rough road shacks it loose.

Ron

 

[zkengle]

Its in the 2nd section from the front of the trailer frame (in front of the axle, behind the end of the tongue extension).

I used the HF spare tire carrier and bolted it directly to the plywood deck. No safety cables. No problems.

 

[Ron Dickey]

Its in the 2nd section from the front of the trailer frame (in front of the axle, behind the end of the tongue extension).

I used the HF spare tire carrier and bolted it directly to the plywood deck. No safety cables. No problems.

I have one of those good idea!! what is in the conduit behind it?

Ron

 

[Ron Dickey]

I present to you, the "X-Cubed Compact Travel Trailer"

The bones of the design....

A possible paint scheme (but we all know I'll change my mind a dozen times)....

very nice design..... I alway like it when some one brakes from the norm. it is a clean design yet open and looks like it belongs in the woods having fun.


Someone buy my camper!!! Motivated seller open to reasonable offers!!

 

[zkengle]

very nice design..... I alway like it when some one brakes from the norm. it is a clean design yet open and looks like it belongs in the woods having fun.

Thanks Ron! Just going for something a bit different and something a bit more "beefy" than my first two

The inside will have a couple design features that are just as interesting as the outside.

 

[Thelgord]

I am not sure if its because this is so different or because its just damn cool, but this is one of my favorite designs that I have seen.

 

[KCStudly]

Zach, have you thought about a TV upgrade to go along with the new design?

Perhaps a full scale version of this?

+1 on liking the design.

 

[zkengle]

Thanks Thelgord and KC! Now I just gotta get off my ass and build it!

KC that would be a GREAT tow vehicle!!

 

[zkengle]

It has arrived! Took less than a week to get here.

I'll crack open the boxes tonight and figure out the exact width of the trailer frame so I can order the Dexter Torflex axle tomorrow!

 

[Tommy2tone_1999]

Let me know if you figure out what the 2 wedge shaped pieces are for with that Ironton Trailer

 

[zkengle]

Let me know if you figure out what the 2 wedge shaped pieces are for with that Ironton Trailer

Hmmm... Im at work right now, so I'm not sure what wedge pieces you mean. And the Northern Tool site is flubbed up at the moment so I can't view the manual online. Would they be fender brackets? If I remember tonight, I'll look. I'm leaving for a snowboarding trip tomorrow morning, so I'm going to be rushing around getting ready for that, so my apologies if i forget.



I unpacked the trailer last night and was going to put a couple bolts in so I could measure the actual width of the frame. Needed that measurement to order the axle assembly. Well, two bolts turned into 6 bolts, and the next thing I know I had assembled the whole frame. And for the record, this trailer kit measured about 60-1/16" wide, give or take a hair or two.

This morning I called Redneck Trailer Supply and ordered:
- Dexter Torflex #9 - de-rated for 1800lbs
- 22.5 degree down start angle
- for 60" outside bracket-to-bracket, 73" hub face-to-face
- w/ top-mount 1" high-profile brackets
- 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern, on 6.5" idler hubs (for 12-15" wheels)

Total axle cost: $232.94 (doesn't include shipping - I'm picking it up locally)

For anyone considering a bolt-together trailer kit:

If you're planning on getting the Harbor Freight 4x8 Heavy Duty kit, spend the extra $150 and get the Northern Tool 5x8 Heavy Duty kit. It is made by the same company that makes the Harbor Freight kits (Changzhou Nanxiashu) but I the steel is heavier gauge, and the side rails are single pieces which makes assembly and squaring it up a breeze. This will also allow you to move the axle to virtually any position your build requires. And its not RED (which eventually turns pink).

The Ironton (Northern Tool) 5x8 Kit is only available in stores, or by freight truck delivery. I opted for the FREE delivery because the closest store to me is 5 hours away. It took less than a week for delivery, and the freight company calls to arrange a date and time . We agreed on 10am-2pm yesterday, and the guy was here at 9:55am. The shipping company offers "lift gate service" for $157 - DON'T BOTHER WITH IT. The kit comes in 3 boxes, which are easily manageable with a hand cart. The driver even had one in his truck, and although he didn't have to help unload, he did. The Certificate of Origin does not come WITH the trailer kit. It gets mailed separately. I'm definitely happy with this kit!

 

[zkengle]

I've been on vacation for the past week so no build progress has been made. However, before I left I gave the drawing for the tongue extension to a local fabrication shop. They called while I was gone and said that it was ready so I stopped over on my lunch break today and picked it up.

Why a tongue extension?
Extending the tongue creates a larger distance between the rear bumper of your tow vehicle and the front of you trailer. This means you can maneuver into a tight camping site easier because you can turn a much tighter radius without worrying about your trailer hitting your bumper. With my last build, I could get my car and teardrop 90 degrees to each other and still have wiggle room. Backing the trailer is also MUCH easier with a longer longer distance between your tow vehicle hitch and the trailer wheels. And finally, it drastically reinforces the tongue and gives you a much better place to mount a wheeled tongue jack. Mounting a tongue jack on one half of the a-frame tongue works, but it puts a lot of torque on the one side of your frame. Is extending/reinforcing the tongue necessary? Nope. But it makes a huge difference!

Cost for steel, including drilling the seven 1/2" holes was $67.58. I don't have a drill press, so this saved me at least an hour worth of work and a $20 drill bit. Totally worth it.

The grouping of 4 holes at the right end is for the coupler. The coupler that came with the NT trailer kit (made for 2-1/2" tongue) gets replaced by a coupler for a 2" tongue. New coupler was $24.99.

The two vertical holes towards the left end are for bolting the extension to the first two frame rails. The hole that is 56-13/16" from the left end is for a bolt to go through the flipped coupler mounting plate (which already has holes through it).

Total cost for tongue extension (including taxes) was $94.33. (This does not include paint or nuts/bolts)

I'll take a couple pictures once I get it painted and installed.

 

[Kharn]

Zach,
You're certainly lucky with your machinist, the one shop that got back to me wants $135 for the tube with four coupler holes and one for the second cross-member. I'm not 100% sure on the first cross-member and the flipped coupler's locations, so I'll drill them myself.

Why did you step up to 1/4" tube vs 3/16" for the X2?

 

[zkengle]

Oh damn! Definitely call around and get some other prices. The welding shop that I got the piece from was by far the highest estimate (by more than $1000) when I was pricing a full custom frame. But for a simple job like this they were very reasonable. And accurate.

The steel itself should only be around $30. Then the rest is labor, which shouldn't take a professional with the right tools very long at all.

I went with 1/4" this time because they would have had to order 3/16" and it would have only been a couple dollars cheaper. Strength-wise, the 3/16" was more than adequate.

Just went and measured the tongue extension on the X-II (1720lb Harbor Freight frame)... two holes on the left end are identical to whats shown above (23-3/16 apart), but the hole for the flipped coupler plate is about an 1" different.

 

[zkengle]

Installed the tongue extension last night. All the bolt holes aligned perfectly!

View of the top side of the trailer. Note the location of the short piece of steel that ties the two rails of the a-frame tongue together. I had to move it from the top of the tongue to the bottom of the tongue, or otherwise it would have interfered with the extension. No drilling required.

Bottom view showing where the tongue extension bolts to the first two cross members of the trailer frame.

Torflex axle should be here tomorrow, but I'm going away for the weekend so that will have to wait until next week.

 

[alaska teardrop]

• Thanks, Zack, for documenting this process of substituting a Dexter axle to a Northern Tool trailer. It seems a sensible way to go for those builders that, for what ever reason, can't buy or build a welded chassis. IMO, it resolves a whole list of issues conserning using a store bought bolt together OR welded utility trailer to build on that have been discussed over & over the this forum.

• Please don't forget to weigh the frame before & after installing the axle.

• I noted that you'll be using an 1800# rated axle. Which leads me to ask what the estimated dry & loaded weights are for your design?

• Thanks, Fred

 

[zkengle]

• Thanks, Zack, for documenting this process of substituting a Dexter axle to a Northern Tool trailer. It seems a sensible way to go for those builders that, for what ever reason, can't buy or build a welded chassis. IMO, it resolves a whole list of issues conserning using a store bought bolt together OR welded utility trailer to build on that have been discussed over & over the this forum.

• Please don't forget to weigh the frame before & after installing the axle.

• I noted that you'll be using an 1800# rated axle. Which leads me to ask what the estimated dry & loaded weights are for your design?

• Thanks, Fred

I'm not going to be able to get a weight before modifying since the tongue extension is installed, and the Torflex will be installed before it leaves to get inspected for titling. But I do know the shipping weight of the Northern Tool is 273lbs, so I suppose that will be my benchmark.

I did decide to de-rate the axle, but just a little bit. My last build came out to 1100lbs dry, and it handled well on a 2000lb rated leaf spring axle setup. I estimate this one will be about 100lbs lighter based on wall construction method (sandwich walls vs solid 3/4"), and the fact that I won't need to build the deck up over the wheels using 2x4's. Although this one will have the added weight of a full roof (which the X-II did not) and will have a few more bells & whistles (yes, its possible HAHA). On boondocking trips, I probably travel with around 400-500lbs of gear - 4 coolers, heavy duty steel 10x10 canopy, heavy duty cornhole game set, etc.

If I come out a little lighter than expected (or even weight with the X-II), then thats ok. 1800lbs seemed to be a good compromise without going too low and risking exceeding the capacity of the axle. If I come out way to low (which I don't expect) then I'll just add more beer for ballast.

 

[Kharn]

You forgot the heavy duty adult beverages and heavy duty cooking mitts.

 

[zkengle]

You forgot the heavy duty adult beverages and heavy duty cooking mitts.

HAHAHAH mmmm JagerMitts

 

[capnTelescope]

Hey, Zack. Your out of the cliche' thinking produces another great design. I enjoyed reading your X2 build and look forward to this one.