Trailer without a frame...

[mikeschn]

Trailer without a frame...

Yep... That's what Ted and LuAnne are working on... I just got this photo from them...

Mike...

 

[Jiminsav]

awwwwww...isn't it cute..i'm gonna do something simular on my next one..no frame..it better work out better then last time..

 

[SteveH-TNT]

I would actually only be concerned about the strength of the floor where the springs are attached, but that is just me.

 

[Frank-TNT]

uhmmmm, Maybe Ted and LuAnn ought to get with Dean. Compromise somewhere in-between.

Frank

 

[ralaco]

Now the straight of the tear is going to be in the way the body is going to be assembled.

Raul

 

[Arne-TNT]

Mike, that is pretty close to what I plan, with exceptions:

There will be a rectangular metal sub-frame just in the spring area. The tongue will be a 2 piece V meeting at the ball mount. The rear of the rect. will be closer to the back to support the battery and heavy stuff in the galley.

Personally, and I'm no engineer, I'd be happier if there was a piece of angle running 4 or 5 feet, rather than pads... that design places a lot of load on the ply walls... and a V tongue spreads out the front wall load.

I just looked again, they do have the perimeter frame, and I think it will work, except, the I'm still a bit concerned about the front wall on the tongue... I think I'd try to beef that up, maybe with something inside the wall..

 

[Guy-TNT]

Dear Mike,

Would you please ask Ted and LuAnne what the distance between the axle and the tounge is? I am hoping it is enough to allow the springs to depress without the axle hitting the tongue.

 

[Hardin Valley Magic]

Mike is that fiberglass on the blocks that the axles bolt to? If so will that help keep it from deteriorating.

 

[Kevin A]

Mike,
What type of rear spring mount are they using? I can't tell from the photo. I would hope it's some form of slipper mount, I don't see a rear shackle arrangement. Sure wouldn't want both ends of the springs fixed.

 

[madjack]

Mike,
What type of rear spring mount are they using? I can't tell from the photo. I would hope it's some form of slipper mount, I don't see a rear shackle arrangement. Sure wouldn't want both ends of the springs fixed.

...if both ends are fixed, doesn't that make it a "solid" mount...also, it is hard to tell from the pic but is there sufficient clearance between the tongue and axle...I like Arne's idea about the angle iron box...seems with that box, added to the setup shown, you would have a frame even Buford would aprove of...
madjack

 

[Kevin A]

Mike,
What type of rear spring mount are they using? I can't tell from the photo. I would hope it's some form of slipper mount, I don't see a rear shackle arrangement. Sure wouldn't want both ends of the springs fixed.

...if both ends are fixed, doesn't that make it a "solid" mount...also, it is hard to tell from the pic but is there sufficient clearance between the tongue and axle...I like Arne's idea about the angle iron box...seems with that box, added to the setup shown, you would have a frame even Buford would aprove of...
madjack

Maybe it's just me, but I can't imagine locking both ends of a spring. kind of defeats the purpose, and wouldn't that create undue stress on the springs and mounts?

 

[madjack]

...well like I said...without a slipper or shackle, the mount would be solid and probably break through at the mount point......

 

[Anonymous]

That frame looks to be about 500lbs. shy for my liking.

 

[Arne-TNT]

looks like the closer end is not bolted solid, but is a slipper with cross plates to hold the spring in position..

If both ends were bolted solid, the springs would have no effect. It would be the same as no suspension at all. Meaning, the spring could not spring. Also meaning the springs would eventually separate from the frame after enough highway miles..... it would break free.

 

[Kevin A]

Looks like M/J, Arne and I are coming to the same conclusion. Not quite sure about Dean. I was mostly just thinking out loud, is that allowed?

 

[Mike Ahern]

It looks like the spring has the locating pin on the front end and a slider on a plate with a cross pin to keep it from dropping on the rear.

 

[Kevin A]

It looks like the spring has the locating pin on the front end and a slider on a plate with a cross pin to keep it from dropping on the rear.

Thanks Mike,

I figured it would have to be something like you describe, maybe someone has a close up shot of that trailer, specifically the rear spring area. I'd like to see how it's set up.

 

[angib]

Yep... That's what Ted and LuAnne are working on... I just got this photo from them...

Ted and LuAnne - that looks excellent! You get the first Not-Overbuilt Tear award.

Andrew

 

[Ted and LuAnne's Teardrop]

Ok guys we got a set of plans from a guy who sells them on Ebay that lives in Murfreesboro TN. I went with them since he had a teardrop there that I could look at, photograph, etc. The floor/frame is two sheets of 4x8x3/4 plywood cut off to 4x5 and glued together with 1x4 forming the perimeter and mounting pads for the tonge, springs, etc. The tongue is 12' long heavy 2x2 with ears welded on at 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12 foot point to bolt through the floor. The spring/axle is standard for a 5' wide trailer complete with spring pads, bolt in front, slider in rear. The axle beam is mounted 5' from the front of the cabin, or 3' from the rear, same deal. I jacked the back up slightly with an additional 1x4 block. The axle is bowed upwards, so it almost touches the 2x2 tongue tube, but once flipped over and sides and roof on, is straight. Fully loaded should be about 2" clearance. Worst case I may make a rubber snubber to go between the axle and tongue but if I get THAT much travel, I went off a cliff! Once I had the holes drilled I fiberglassed everything as I had a LOT of fiberglass resin and cloth left over from my T bucket. Then bolted everything together and took the pic you see here. The sidewalls and roof are 1/4" plywood, side ribs are 1x2, roof ribs and rear hatch ribs are cut from 3/4" plywood. It is much stronger than it looks and VERY lightweight. The man I bought the plans from had built several trailers and has traveled thousands of miles with no major problems. Ours is insulated and paneled inside unlike the designer's teardrop which was a LOT more spartan. Still debating of what to do about the roof varnish vs metal vs pvc. As this is a LOW BUCK project ($500-$600), varnish is looking good. However 84 Lumber has 36" x 50' .030 flashing for $38! Lowe's and Home Depot have "H" channel cheap. That way there would only be one seam running the length of the trailer down the middle front to back. Hope this answers the many questions I saw on the post. Merry Christmas! Ted

 

[Chip-TNT]

Ok, I am gonna jump in with an observation or three,,, A set-up like this was campfire discussed on one of our outings,, one concern that came up then and now is even more evident now that its in picture form is the stress on the front spring mount,, It looks to be held in place by one or two bolts secured directly to wood,,, over a period of time and road bumps one or both axle mount bolts may loosened to the point that if a bad bump or pothole were hit the axle could slide rearward making the trailer hard to pull safetly,,, the simple solution was to mount the springs on some type of metal about 3' long and then solid bolt it to the wood frame,,, then weld a light tie metal piece from the front of the spring mounts to the tongue on both sides to tie it all together,, If a severe stress was put on the axle a solid metal to metal connection could save the day, and keep everything underneath the box in the location it was suspose to be,,

I am definately not poo pooing on any design and am a huge supporter of build whats needed but dont overbuild or overdesign and am trying to practice what I preach in building my current tear,, I just know there is a point where the line is crossed from over build to underbuild,, and I really dont think any one knows yet where that point is,,

and now for my disclaimer,,, this is just my humble opinion and is for creating a thought process to build a light, structurally sound and safe t&ttt

Chipper

p/s we had an ice event here in Carolina, I just got power last night,,,

I'M BACKKKKKKKKKK