Undercoating Alternative (No more sticky black stuff!)

[ohbugger]

Usually everyone uses the paint-on asphalt. That looked messy and not like the most fun. I used asphalt based window flashing:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_286475-81326-TS ... Id=3055547

It's about $13 for a 9" x 33' roll and I needed 2 rolls to cover and overlap the underside of my 6'x8' trailer. It's probably 1/32" of sticky rubberized asphalt with a thin protective film on the backside. I applied it from front to back but the stuff is so sticky I don't think 70 mph wind or water would penetrate even if it was backward.
I figured by the time you buy a gallon of tar and a brush to toss and some disposable gloves the $26 of flashing is the same price and a better sealant/protector. I hope people see this idea and find it useful!

 

[greekspeedoman]

Interesting idea. You'll have to let us know how it works. I'd love to ditch the black tar. It is like putting my face in gasoline for 30 min. just to apply it.

 

[Tommy2bits]

That stuff looks similar to Peel & Seal. It is used to repair mobile home roof leaks and is used commonly with car enthusiasts as a sound deadener.

I know it sticks like an insane stalker to metal, but I do not know how well it adheres to wood, but the product info says: Surface Recommended: metal, wood, masonry, asphalt... Why not!!!

http://www.lowes.com/pd_154017-81326-PS625_?PL=1&productId=1018733

 

[ohbugger]

yup, it is very similar to some actual car audio sound deadener I have. The sound deadener is supposed to be butyl rubber or something whereas this is asphalt, but the effect is the same. Black sticky stuff on a roll.
I will note that there were a few times that I wanted to adjust it slightly after laying it down and that wasn't happening... it was definitely stuck. The only way to move it would have destroyed it.

 

[toypusher]

I made this a sticky so that it does not disappear anytime soon.

 

[ohbugger]

I made this a sticky so that it does not disappear anytime soon.

Thank you sir! I'd love someone else to try it and give it a review, I think it's great, but who am I to decide?

 

[Tommy2bits]

Works great on the roof of my Mobile home! I'll put this stuff on the bottom of my standy when I get to restoring it and post results!

 

[roberte-TNT]

Just took the first $1,000 step and got my 98 S10 pickup with a receiver hitch, front shocks and rear air shocks. Buying a heavy duty trailer next week form Harbor Fright, about $400, need info on setting up the frame and floor.

I have seen trailers with bombers, shocks, wiring harness, spare tire racks, and storage brackets, very confusing.

If we can talk please ask for Robert, Las Vegas NV, 702-792-3319 to get more info on the sub floor protector, thanking you in-advance, Robert

 

[jstrubberg]

Hrm...

How about the roll on rubber stuff they use for the roofs of large RV's?

 

[JeepThing]

I actually used this stuff on my build, it sticks very well, ( note in the heat of summer it will get very soft) not a prob if you don,t touch it just messy as i used it on all corners where wall met floor or roof as well as around all the doors and windows. No water is going to get at the wood on my trailer, well worth the small cost. extra protection is a good thing. Like the rest of my trailer it's "Over built"

 

[Martiangod]

I used coroplas (signboard)
Worked great

 

[magilla-TNT]

I am using a product called Davco K10 plus, it is a paintable wet area waterproofing product that is also Traffic-able and UV stable, It is a water based product, no pong and goes on thick. available at any reputable tiling supplier

 

[malibusurfer]

Just put the flashing down on my floors as well. I used a heat gun to get it real warm and squeegied it flatter to get into the grain more.... Seems like it's not gonna come up at all... I had some extra and put a thin piece over the seam for double the water protection.... Hopefully I get good results but she's not coming off in one piece!!! Only $15 and some change per roll here in OR at Lowes.

 

[egjacks]

I also decided to use the tite seal window flashing on the underside of my teardrop. (Well, under the teardrop floor, I can't call it a teardrop yet, cause it is just a floor.) I finished laying it on just this afternoon, so I can't say yet as far as the longevity of this product. The temperature in my garage was probably in the high 50s, and when I laid it down (before pressing it with hands or roller, after that, forget it!) I had a few seconds to pull it back up if I really needed to. After those few seconds though, it was stuck good. Like Malibusurfer, I used a heat gun over all the seams and corners. This seemed to make it stick even better, and helped mold the flashing around corners and edges, as well as smoothing small wrinkles.
Oh, and I had my wife helping me for about half of the project, I cannot stress enough how much a second pair of hands helped while applying the flashing, both in accuracy of placement and speed of application!

Those of you who have used this stuff, did you paint it or cover it in any way? I was trying to decide if it needed any protection...

 

[txcamper-TNT]

FYI - another example here - I'll try to remember to post up pictures after a couple seasons of use too.

 

[Tommy2bits]

Those of you who have used this stuff, did you paint it or cover it in any way? I was trying to decide if it needed any protection...

I can't imagine that you would need to protect the protection. This is meant to patch roof leaks that are open to the elements, I think once this is on, you should be good!

 

[Rhino Ray]

I don't know what the major concern is, we are talking about an area that doesn't get direct sunlight, it only get's wet if we drive in the rain and when we stop it doesn't get wet any further. I have a house that gets worse treatment than that and it holds up very well so I sealed up all the seams, cracks and knots with painters seal, put on three coats of a good primer then two coats of flat black exterior paint. I bet I won't have any problems.

 

[Tommy2bits]

I don't know what the major concern is, we are talking about an area that doesn't get direct sunlight, it only get's wet if we drive in the rain and when we stop it doesn't get wet any further. I have a house that gets worse treatment than that and it holds up very well so I sealed up all the seams, cracks and knots with painters seal, put on three coats of a good primer then two coats of flat black exterior paint. I bet I won't have any problems.

We're a positive board here. No major concern, just a general topic to discuss for those who aren't sure about such stuff. I am sure your method will be taken by others as well as you make some good points.

 

[txcamper-TNT]

Those of you who have used this stuff, did you paint it or cover it in any way? I was trying to decide if it needed any protection...

I can't imagine that you would need to protect the protection. This is meant to patch roof leaks that are open to the elements, I think once this is on, you should be good!

X2 on 2bits' comment - Once this stuff was attached, I was confident just to flip it, bolt it down and move on with the project. It was very easy to apply and sticks to itself well if you have an intricate area to deal with (inside my fender area).

 

[parnold]

I recently demo'd a 1974 Skamper Pop-Up that had exposed 3/4 plywood flooring. There was perhaps some type of sealant, but definitely not goo. You could easily see the grain. I smashed at that darned floor with a 14lb sledge hammer until my arms felt like they would fall off. I managed to break off the screws holding it down, only actually broke through the plywood in one spot.

Personally I use automotive undercoating or automotive chip guard (free), but I do have to agree somewhat with what Rhino said. Our floors are one more example of the teardrop mindset of overbuilding.