Undercoating Alternative (No more sticky black stuff!)

[Terri-TNT]

I saw this post a long time ago and used this stuff the other day other when we laid the floor down. Great, great, idea!

 

[mallymal]

Great posting

I just happen to work about 2 miles from a wurth trade counter here in the uk!

You can get it in an aerosol with an applicator gun too, in case you don't have a spray gun or don't want the hassle of cleaning black goo out of it

 

[atomaker]

I used this on my third trailer with poor results. As soon as I got it into hot weather, the stuff turned loose and sagged where it wasn't trapped by cross members. Now on the fourth build and I won't be using it

 

[Nobody-TNT]

I used this on my third trailer with poor results. As soon as I got it into hot weather, the stuff turned loose and sagged where it wasn't trapped by cross members. Now on the fourth build and I won't be using it

Which 'stuff' are you speaking of?

I used the brush-on asphalt 'sticky' black stuff on the underside of my floor assembly when building in 2006. It dried overnight with NO residual smell or stickiness. I then insulated the underside of the floor with 1" Dow 'blueboard'. Almost 8yrs & 22K plus miles later in weather from Louisiana to California thru the desert southwest & over the Rocky Mountains I've had absolutely no problems except for a separation of the plywood where the wheelwells joined the floor, & that was strictly my fault due to construction method. I repaired that & re-sealed with automotive spray undercoating in 2011 & it has served well thru today...

 

[Zac2Smart]

Was wondering if anyone had used this for the bottom floor. It's what I'm planning on using for an upcoming build. Any comments?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbrande...ted-Board-A11230848096/206086210?N=5yc1vZbqm7

 

[Tony Latham]

Was wondering if anyone had used this for the bottom floor. It's what I'm planning on using for an upcoming build. Any comments?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbrande...ted-Board-A11230848096/206086210?N=5yc1vZbqm7

I think it's gross overkill and could be a mess –sooner or later– especially when it gets hot.

I'm in the camp that believes the floor isn't the weekest spot when it comes to moisture. There are lots of ways to seal a camper floor. I'm one that uses epoxy to seal it. The old black goo works great. I haven't used it but old 'drops (that have been treated with the stuff) don't lie. TB2 should work fine too. Or perhaps "The Mix" of thinned polyurethane.

Remember, you bolt the floor to the chassis. The walls and front of the teardrop neede to be structurally attached to the floor. And to me, that means glueing and screwing. I don't believe there is any glue that will stick to that stuff.

Tony

 

[Zac2Smart]

While I did find adhesive that would work (for normal asphalt at least) http://terrecon.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Survivorgrip_Brochure.pdf and is also super $$$, You do have a very good point I should keep in mind, I'm not building a tank!

Thanks

 

[yrock87]

Was wondering if anyone had used this for the bottom floor. It's what I'm planning on using for an upcoming build. Any comments?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbrande...ted-Board-A11230848096/206086210?N=5yc1vZbqm7

I think it's gross overkill and could be a mess –sooner or later– especially when it gets hot.

I'm in the camp that believes the floor isn't the weekest spot when it comes to moisture. There are lots of ways to seal a camper floor. I'm one that uses epoxy to seal it. The old black goo works great. I haven't used it but old 'drops (that have been treated with the stuff) don't lie. TB2 should work fine too. Or perhaps "The Mix" of thinned polyurethane.

Remember, you bolt the floor to the chassis. The walls and front of the teardrop neede to be structurally attached to the floor. And to me, that means glueing and screwing. I don't believe there is any glue that will stick to that stuff.

Tony

tony, how much epoxy did you use? how many coats? I'm tempted to put a coat of epoxy on my floor to seal against the elements. I have 1.5 gallons from Raka and have little experience beyond JB weld. the added benefit of epoxying my floor is that I can learn on that before I screw up a visible wall...

 

[fm-usa]

Several years ago I used 2 part epoxy paint on an outdoor 10 story emergency staircase.
Once mixed, that stuff is rather thick and began curing in about 45 minutes.
I would guess the realistic flat spread would be 1 qt. for about 40 sq. ft., pre-sealed material dependent.

I'm unsure of the material mentioned here, never used it. Hopefully the stuff I used helps figure yours.
As usual, mix a small amount and test.

 

[Andrew Herrick]

I just stumbled onto this thread...very interesting! Before finding this forum I had purchased plans for a TD. Instructions indicated using the automotive spray undercoating, as I recall 6 cans for a 4x8. I like the sound of this window flashing stuff tho...think I may go that route!

Lee
About to start my build of a 5x8!!

I like window flashing ... for window flashing. I've used this stuff a lot, and it doesn't stick well to wood over time. And like the other poster mentioned, it can delaminate from the substrate under heat. You might be able to fix that with LOTS of staples ?? But, I say, just coat it with your favorite paint/epoxy/asphalt finish and be done with it

 

[yrock87]

Several years ago I used 2 part epoxy paint on an outdoor 10 story emergency staircase.
Once mixed, that stuff is rather thick and began curing in about 45 minutes.
I would guess the realistic flat spread would be 1 qt. for about 40 sq. ft., pre-sealed material dependent.

I'm unsure of the material mentioned here, never used it. Hopefully the stuff I used helps figure yours.
As usual, mix a small amount and test.

just saw this. I ended up using two coats of marine grade Raka epoxy for the underside of the floor. I used about a pint out of the 1.5 gallon batch. hardened the wood well and is waterproof. I would do it this way again.

 

[fm-usa]

Several years ago I used 2 part epoxy paint on an outdoor 10 story emergency staircase.
Once mixed, that stuff is rather thick and began curing in about 45 minutes.
I would guess the realistic flat spread would be 1 qt. for about 40 sq. ft., pre-sealed material dependent.

I'm unsure of the material mentioned here, never used it. Hopefully the stuff I used helps figure yours.
As usual, mix a small amount and test.

just saw this. I ended up using two coats of marine grade Raka epoxy for the underside of the floor. I used about a pint out of the 1.5 gallon batch. hardened the wood well and is waterproof. I would do it this way again.

Like I said, stuff I used was thick. Glad it was or it drip all over Maria Carey's grandparents condo's finished balcony.
The thinner the better to get INTO the pores for grip'ture. Once set it has to be ruffed up for 2nd coat, said Fido. But being on the underside, it'll be well protected.

 

[ColoradoCody]

What about a Swimming Pool Paint? Seems like it would hold up to the dings from rocks and is (hopefully) waterproof.
Thoughts? About $40 a gallon

 

[HotRod1]

Has anyone just marine epoxied with one coats d then gone over it with lizard skin?


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[HotRod1]

Or possibly herc o liner. It's a rubberized bed liner you paint on. Napa has a gallon for around 40-50 bucks.


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[Wildfire-TNT]

I put a sheet of 0.032" aluminum on the bottom of mine.

Cheaper/faster than expensive paints and coatings.

 

[zkengle]

I said it years ago, and I'll say it again. Asphalt fence post paint. Less than $15/gallon, which is more than you'll need for one camper. First coat dries in less than an hour, second and third coat (if needed) are even faster.

I just cut holes in my camper floor for air conditioning vents, and the underside is as new as the day I painted it. Many people (mostly new builders) don't understand how little exposure (water and UV light) the underside of a camper gets. Quit wasting $$$$ on expensive epoxies and bedliner for the underside. Put that money into the top side of your build where the actual abuse from the elements occurs.

 

[jondbar628]

Well said, Zack.......I used my HF trailer for "utility"purposes for 3 years before I started my build. When I bought it, I bolted 3/4 treated ply to the frame. Before doing that, I had painted the ply with some run-of-the-mill oil-based house paint my Dad had in his basement.
When I started my build, I removed the ply. The topside was weathered and beat-up from abuse. The bottom side looked as good as the day I painted it...........jd