I bought this cute thing on FBMarketplace for $300. & now I’m thinking “holy cow” I can’t do this. it leaks of course -everyone is telling me to fiberglass it. I have watched 56 fiberglass videos on Youtube & I’m not sure I can do it. Any other waterproof ideas? I am a 69 year old woman who has never fiberglassed. I am confident I can finish the inside but FIBERGLASS?
Waterproofing a Leaky Curved Wooden Camper
- Thread starter Blizzardy
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Original Member Title: over my head in MN
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A member bought a small curved wooden camper for $300 and asked for alternatives to fiberglass after discovering it leaks and feeling unsure about taking on fiberglass work. Multiple members encouraged using epoxy with fiberglass cloth, saying the camper’s extreme curves make other waterproofing approaches difficult, though one member noted a tarp at home and an EZ Up canopy while camping could be a temporary workaround.
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Pmullen503
Senior Member
Add one more recommendation for epoxy and glass cloth. The extreme curves preclude anything else. Everyone who fiberglasses had a first project, so it isn't as daunting as it may seem.
You could tarp it at home and park under an EZ Up canopy to keep the rain off when camping I suppose.
Interesting shape.
You could tarp it at home and park under an EZ Up canopy to keep the rain off when camping I suppose.
Interesting shape.
Last edited:
Tony Latham
Senior Member
I'll throw my ballot in for fiberglass/epoxy, too.
Just start asking questions.
Tony
Just start asking questions.
Tony
KCStudly
Senior Member
- Joined
- Feb 6, 2012
- Posts
- 9,766
So the first question needs to be, is the woody appearance a must retain feature, or are you okay with paint after fiberglass? The next question is, what is the current coating, how hard would it be to strip to bare wood, and what is going on at all of those laps and joints that might impede a good application of FG and allow the epoxy (preferred) or polyester resin (not my first choice) to adhere effectively without air bubbles and voids?
Glass fabric does not like to transition at sharp inside or outside corners, or to bridge gaps. It has minimum bend radius limitations. Air bubbles or voids will form if it doesn't have a nice fair surface and smooth transitions. So outside corners need to be rounded over, inside corners need to be filleted, and gaps or bulges at plank edges need to be faired and/or filled with compatible filler (i.e. thickened epoxy or PE resin). If you plan on painting afterwards it would be much easier not having to worry about maintaining the woody appearance. Otherwise it will be much more difficult to maintain a decent woody look, to the point where doing a faux woody paint job after glassing is probably more practical than going for a clear finish and trying to get the glass work to "disappear" in the resin. Those sleek cedar strip kayaks you've probably been looking at are gorgeous, but they are also very fair to start with, are a much smaller surface area to deal with, have minimal transitions to deal with and use very lightweight glass cloth. I've work with epoxy and glass quite a bit on my TPCE build, and would still feel nervous about going for a clear woody, at least one with such a rough starting point.
Glass fabric does not like to transition at sharp inside or outside corners, or to bridge gaps. It has minimum bend radius limitations. Air bubbles or voids will form if it doesn't have a nice fair surface and smooth transitions. So outside corners need to be rounded over, inside corners need to be filleted, and gaps or bulges at plank edges need to be faired and/or filled with compatible filler (i.e. thickened epoxy or PE resin). If you plan on painting afterwards it would be much easier not having to worry about maintaining the woody appearance. Otherwise it will be much more difficult to maintain a decent woody look, to the point where doing a faux woody paint job after glassing is probably more practical than going for a clear finish and trying to get the glass work to "disappear" in the resin. Those sleek cedar strip kayaks you've probably been looking at are gorgeous, but they are also very fair to start with, are a much smaller surface area to deal with, have minimal transitions to deal with and use very lightweight glass cloth. I've work with epoxy and glass quite a bit on my TPCE build, and would still feel nervous about going for a clear woody, at least one with such a rough starting point.
Last edited:
S. Heisley
Senior Member
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2007
- Posts
- 8,956
You've been given some really good advice, above. Pay attention to what these people have said, and don't worry. You can do this. All of us had to start somewhere. Best Wishes!
Pmullen503
Senior Member
Key question right there.
That and fairing before glassing. If you can live with a painted finish, things get a lot easier.
Chefsonora
Advanced Member
It is a really cool shape and design (though I'm not so sure about the house sliding window), and it is a pretty daunting task to seal up, but it will certainly turn a lot of heads! I'd love to see more pics of the rest of it!
I'm going to offer you an alternative. Treat it kinda like a deck.
Strip all the caulk. Sand all the wood. Fill the gaps between the wood with foam backer rod. Apply plenty of polyurethane sealant over the backer rod and between the gaps (like OSI Quad Max). I added this step before the next step, so it can bond better to the wood. But I'm not certain on this order, you could call the manufacturer to check.
Apply a bad penetrating "deck stain". I say "bad" because the good stuff is oil-based (like TWP 100) but they'll make the inside smell bad. Buy a semi-transparent or semi-solid waterborne penetrating stain (such as Defy Extreme or Sansom PureColor). Alternatively "Armstrong Clark Exterior Wood Stain" will probably give better performance but mostly not be stinky if you leave the camper in the hot sun for a week (with windows open) after application. Just make sure what you pick isn't film-forming!
Finally, this will be fine for rain as long as it doesn't pool anywhere, but it'll last so much longer if you keep it in a tent or garage where it doesn't get sun nor rain on it when you aren't using it. Don't tarp closely to it; you don't want to trap moisture against it. If you're not willing to do this, then don't take this approach.
Every year or two (depending on usage) reapply the "stain". Because it's penetrating oil or waterborne stain, you don't have to strip or sand the wood again.
Downside of this, it'll be a little smelly inside after application for a little while. The waterborne will be much better in this regard.
Strip all the caulk. Sand all the wood. Fill the gaps between the wood with foam backer rod. Apply plenty of polyurethane sealant over the backer rod and between the gaps (like OSI Quad Max). I added this step before the next step, so it can bond better to the wood. But I'm not certain on this order, you could call the manufacturer to check.
Apply a bad penetrating "deck stain". I say "bad" because the good stuff is oil-based (like TWP 100) but they'll make the inside smell bad. Buy a semi-transparent or semi-solid waterborne penetrating stain (such as Defy Extreme or Sansom PureColor). Alternatively "Armstrong Clark Exterior Wood Stain" will probably give better performance but mostly not be stinky if you leave the camper in the hot sun for a week (with windows open) after application. Just make sure what you pick isn't film-forming!
Finally, this will be fine for rain as long as it doesn't pool anywhere, but it'll last so much longer if you keep it in a tent or garage where it doesn't get sun nor rain on it when you aren't using it. Don't tarp closely to it; you don't want to trap moisture against it. If you're not willing to do this, then don't take this approach.
Every year or two (depending on usage) reapply the "stain". Because it's penetrating oil or waterborne stain, you don't have to strip or sand the wood again.
Downside of this, it'll be a little smelly inside after application for a little while. The waterborne will be much better in this regard.
DrGofast
New Member
Congratulations!
You are now the proud owner of an upside-down wooden boat. . . . With all the consequently earned pride, and responsibilities.
Water ingress is your primary enemy. Proper materials (yup, fiberglass & epoxy), artful craftsmanship, and eternal maintenance are your new defensive companions. (See new book: “Maintenance of Everything” by Stewart Brand (of Whole Earth Catalog fame)).
1) First, ask for advice from knowledgeable and experienced folks — like tnttt. (So far so good).
2) You need to experiment, make (small) mistakes, and learn. But . . . not by yourself. Ask around, find someone with successful hands-on fiberglass experience, and who is willing to help you hands-on. Study and watch what you wish, but there is no substitute for actively working — and with a partner or mentor.
3) Also, be sure to adjust your attitude, so that you value, not resent, your new journey. (see again, Brand’s book above).
Buona Avventura!
Enjoy!
You are now the proud owner of an upside-down wooden boat. . . . With all the consequently earned pride, and responsibilities.
Water ingress is your primary enemy. Proper materials (yup, fiberglass & epoxy), artful craftsmanship, and eternal maintenance are your new defensive companions. (See new book: “Maintenance of Everything” by Stewart Brand (of Whole Earth Catalog fame)).
1) First, ask for advice from knowledgeable and experienced folks — like tnttt. (So far so good).
2) You need to experiment, make (small) mistakes, and learn. But . . . not by yourself. Ask around, find someone with successful hands-on fiberglass experience, and who is willing to help you hands-on. Study and watch what you wish, but there is no substitute for actively working — and with a partner or mentor.
3) Also, be sure to adjust your attitude, so that you value, not resent, your new journey. (see again, Brand’s book above).
Buona Avventura!
Enjoy!
I know this is mostly a DIY forum, but...when you get a teardrop for $300, maybe you might be able to afford to get a workshop to do the epoxy fibreglass waterproofing?
If not, it probably is within your ability to epoxy it yourself. Here in Australia, we are not limited to woven fibreglass mat. We can get what is called CSM (chopped strand mat).
The whole point of that material is to follow complex curves. I would be very surprised if that isn't an off the shelf item in your neck of the woods.
Compared to making woven mat go around corners, it would be a piece of pie, I think.
Failing that, if you feel that it is beyond you, you could try what I did.
I thought I knew better than most and insisted on painting my teardrop with oil based gloss enamel paint. I am here to testify - oil based gloss does not flex enough. It cracks as the underlying timber swells and shrinks in the rain and humidity.
I had to find a remedy.
I found a paint-on acrylic membrane made for waterproofing timber decks and balconies.
It is kinda like the waterproofing membrane that goes in a bathroom before you lay the tile over the top of it. In fact, the one I bought said on the label that it could also be used for that purpose. I believe the thing that made it different to the usual bathroom treatment was this one was formulated for outdoor UV resistance. Anyway, it has worked. It doesn't dry very smooth, and it is opaque, so you lose the cool timber look, but it will be water proof.
I painted over mine with water-based house paint, as the membrane was a boring grey colour. If I'd used the right paint in the first place, I would not be telling this story.
If not, it probably is within your ability to epoxy it yourself. Here in Australia, we are not limited to woven fibreglass mat. We can get what is called CSM (chopped strand mat).
The whole point of that material is to follow complex curves. I would be very surprised if that isn't an off the shelf item in your neck of the woods.
Compared to making woven mat go around corners, it would be a piece of pie, I think.
Failing that, if you feel that it is beyond you, you could try what I did.
I thought I knew better than most and insisted on painting my teardrop with oil based gloss enamel paint. I am here to testify - oil based gloss does not flex enough. It cracks as the underlying timber swells and shrinks in the rain and humidity.
I had to find a remedy.
I found a paint-on acrylic membrane made for waterproofing timber decks and balconies.
It is kinda like the waterproofing membrane that goes in a bathroom before you lay the tile over the top of it. In fact, the one I bought said on the label that it could also be used for that purpose. I believe the thing that made it different to the usual bathroom treatment was this one was formulated for outdoor UV resistance. Anyway, it has worked. It doesn't dry very smooth, and it is opaque, so you lose the cool timber look, but it will be water proof.
I painted over mine with water-based house paint, as the membrane was a boring grey colour. If I'd used the right paint in the first place, I would not be telling this story.
kipa
Advanced Member
In my very limited experience with my build, the glass weave itself is the most challenging thing to get right. Cutting it to the correct dimensions and controlling fray and loose strands can be challenging. It's mostly just messy, and both get everywhere if you are not careful. Keep a good supply of nitrile gloves and denatured alcohol handy (buy a gallon of it) for working with epoxy.
Since this is just for sealing, use the tightest and lightest glass weave possible to make transitions easiest, but as suggested, sharp outside corners should be avoided.
That said, you may be able to find somebody with custom boat building experience that could do an incredible job with it fairly quickly if properly prepped before hand.
Since this is just for sealing, use the tightest and lightest glass weave possible to make transitions easiest, but as suggested, sharp outside corners should be avoided.
That said, you may be able to find somebody with custom boat building experience that could do an incredible job with it fairly quickly if properly prepped before hand.
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