Will this work?

[CirCal]

This is the first of many questions; I am clue less about trailers. I'm thinking of building something Winter Warrior like. 5' 9" x 10'. I hope to keep the expenses down. Thinking that the finial build weight to be < 2000 lbs. I am assuming the trailer body is the structure that supports the load and the frame transfers the load to the axle and hitch in this case.

For the chassis start with either HF 4X8 1195 or 1720, and not widen it at all.

Replace the axle with Galvanized Boat Trailer Axle 67 inch 3500 lb Square by Dexter. https://www.boattrailerparts.com/Ga...e-67-inch-3500-lb-Square-by-Dexter_p_829.html
The website says it's a 2x2x1/4" axle tube, and spring seat measurement: "Will safety accommodate 49 inches to 54.5 inches". The axle has brake flanges for the future addition of brakes.

For your wheels and tires, replace with Taskmaster 5.30-12 Bias Trailer Tire with 12" White Mod Wheel - 5 on 4-1/2 . These are rated for 1,050 lbs at 80 psi and speed rating of up to 81 mph. https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Tires-and-Wheels/Taskmaster/TTWAS53012WM45HP.html

Add a 2x2 tube from the hitch to back under the frame.

This would give me a trailer to build on for about $950 - $1050 including a spare tire, or less if on sale.

1 Is my assumption correct?

2 Does this sound feasible?

 

[KCStudly]

How do you propose to deal with the disparity between 69 inch trailer frame width and 54.5 spring perch width?

 

[KCStudly]

Don't forget that you need wheel offset/hub-to-hub-face clearance as well.

 

[CirCal]

The HF trailer frame is 48" wide.
The Axle hub faces are 67".
Where the springs mount on the axle is adjustable. "Spring perch"
The wheels would be well outboard of the trailer frame.
Then the floor would be built to 69" half way covering the tires.

I hope this makes sense. I don't yet know the proper jargon for the parts.

 

[Tony Latham]

Add a 2x2 tube from the hitch to back under the frame.

Are you going to weld it to the HF chassis? If so, think about ditching the HF trailer and starting from scratch. I think you'll save money and end up with a LOT better trailer.

Tony

 

[CirCal]

Welding is not in my skill set.

I was thinking of bolting the tube on, either through bolt, or 'u' bolt. Conversely having it welded at a local muffler shop. (They attached a few things to my boat trailer)

.....Then I found this http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?p=1274453#p1274453 here about extending the tongue.
So many ideas.

 

[KCStudly]

Got it. I misunderstood the fact that you are building over the wheels.

 

[QueticoBill]

Adding a tube looks as simple on harbor freight as it was on my northern tools. I used 2 x 2 x 1/4 but 3/16 or 1/8 if not lengthening it much would be fine. I added 1'. I just ran it between plates that sandwich the two diagonals. Went from cross piece just in front of axel (relocated rearward), bolts at the plates, and bolted on same hitch. If i was sure it wouldn't interfere with axel I'd use a longer tube and let it project past rear cross piece to add a receiver. Underslinging axel might not leave enough room for axel travel. Maybe butt and join to your replacement axel tube? Mine was pretty straight forward.

 

[ddc612]

I would avoid the bolt together trailer frames. If your planning on 2200lb trailer, you've exceeded the max weight of the trailer kits. There's a full section on tnttt.com website on what needs to done to these trailer kits to make them half way usable. The other half, it's still sub par. They've been used, many have had success! Equally, many have failed. I've worked on a couple Harbor Freight 4x8 used for neighbors and friends, ok fire wood haulers and such, they're not meant hard use. In fact I don't know of anything chinese made that last long! Spend the money on a good foundation, you won't regret it!

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[gudmund-TNT]

I "second" what was just said here!!!!!!

 

[QueticoBill]

There seems to be a lot of folks here quite satisfied with their teardrops built on Northern Tools and Harbor Freight trailers.

 

[TimC-TNT]

+1 on what Qbill said. I built my first on a custom 5x8 locally fabricated trailer. I wouldn't do that again. Way over built. The next two are on NT trailers. Just the right amount of strength to weight.
I am impressed enough to buy a third 5x8 NT to replace my utility trailer which was damaged by a falling tree. Full disclosure... I'm not doing much bushwacking or rock climbing. Gravel, single lane roads sure. And I find myself on some fairly rough terrain now and then. Go slow and take my time.
There are reasons for overbuilding when needed. My use, and I suspect the average teardrop camper's use is not one of them.

It comes down to BYOB...

 

[Socal Tom]

I wouldn't put something that big over a HF frame. The balance front to rear will be off, and it will flex more because of the massive overhang off of the metal frame. Spend a few more dollars and have a proper frame made. If you are buying the axle anyhow, it won't be a ton more.

 

[QueticoBill]

He will have to move axel to get near the 40/60 split. Was easy on NT 5x8 - used existing holes for front hanger and drilled holes for slipper.

I may yet have cross pieces welded at upper flanges so I don't have to have recesses in cabin for bolt heads. We'll see which seems less expensive and time consuming when I get there.

 

[gudmund-TNT]

has always made me wonder??? = where is the 'time/$$$' ever saved in using a H/F frame?? -- you buy one being it is lower priced, than turn around later buying a bigger axle along with new bigger set of wheels/tires - than add more bracing 'here-there' along with stronger bolts -and or- welding here/there and on and on and on .......... (than later, it's ?can I now add brakes? or go to bigger hubs??.......etc,etc,etc.......) and what do you end up with?? ............. So YES -personally I would rather start with "more than what I will ever need" and also YES - that ='s "overkill" !!!......
I also 'hear/see' the same thing 'over-over' again here when it comes to the questions pertaining to - tow vehicles = someone buys a teardrop than asks?? if they can tow it with this or that? with something that is 'not' even tow rated high enough for that use (or even 'tow rated' at all). I'm done .... = ""Just my opinion"" - for what that is worth....... there I said it Take care............."Stay Safe"

 

[QueticoBill]

Wonderful we each have the freedom to choose how we want to do it.

FWIW I had trailer built and modified in 2 or 3 days, and used it for utility hauling immediately. It would have been months if I scratch built it and heavens knows how long to get it registered in state I lived in. I probably would not have even started a scratch built, and could not afford to pay someone to do it (I lived in Chicago land.) And thankful for tnttt.com for the expertise, information, and examples which allow me to do it with confidence.

 

[western traveler-TNT]

I just had a frame built by a fabricator. It took 9 hours at $60 per hour plus materials. It is exactly the configuration I wanted. The Dexter TorFlex axle was pricy and took nearly 7 weeks to arrive. I added electric brakes, 15” tires and wheels.
I used the plans that Tony.Latham so willingly shares. I figure the cost was well worth it when considering all the changes I was going to make to a NT bolt together trailer and I ended up with a solid platform. Yes, it is overbuilt but I tend to roll that way.

 

[QueticoBill]

Your labor was more than my whole frame and labor would probably be double in a big city. Your situation is just very different from mine. I'll bet registration of a scratch built in Montana is also simple. I'm glad you like what you were able to afford and build. I'm also happy for those if us using NT and HF trailers and enjoying the results. Everybody wins.

 

[ddc612]

I purchased the northern tool no floor landscape trailer 9 yrs ago. The trailer would never have made it hauling a bicycle the way it comes!! I did as suggested in the forums by adding 2x3in diagonals for the coupler. The guy welded the diagonals to the front spring mounts, then lengthed the tongue 24inches with a step. I'll never use this frame for another build. The current dilemma is the sliders are half worn through already! I've added Teflon blocking to stop the wear. They haven't held up. One is now made from phenolic. Seems good so far. By the time I purchased the trailer, payed for the modifications, he said he could build me a much better frame for less $$ than I had into this one.

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[CirCal]

Thanks, for the thoughtful input.

It seems to be a choice of good enough, better, best.

I am leaning towards something I can put together, thus modify or fix.

However for now, I'll ponder what to put atop said trailer.

Thax
Michael