Working with flashing and beading

[ghcoe]

But wait! You say you need something more sturdy?

Ok, Take your soldering gun and now use the existing hard point as a guide for another slot opposite form the slot you just made.

Now place another hard point over the existing hard point.

Twice the strength now and thicker for more screw holding power.

 

[KCStudly]

That is a very cool technique, and very practical method for building light weight, fast, yet sturdy.

Are there any special precautions or techniques needed when it comes time to get the canvas to stick?

 

[ghcoe]

That is a very cool technique, and very practical method for building light weight, fast, yet sturdy.

Are there any special precautions or techniques needed when it comes time to get the canvas to stick?

Yes, I find that Gripper sticks really well to the flashing. Just have to make sure you clean the flashing real well first. I have not played with the TBII as of yet, but I am guessing that it would stick poorly to metal in general. So my thinking so far is that I will be applying gripper to the flashing and then use TBII to apply canvas over the Gripper. I have applied Gripper to the body already to help with fairing the body and it has a good bond to the foam. As long as TBII sticks to Gripper well all should be good.

I also think I would like to apply a rap around strip of canvas over the flashing areas to help fair in those areas before applying the final canvas covering.

 

[Fred Trout]

Thanks for posting this tutorial; very helpful.

Add another very useful function - flashing helps cover all my crooked edge cuts

PS. this really should be a sticky thread so it does not get buried under new posts

 

[Toby-TNT]

I'm a former sheet metal worker in the military so working with flashing would be sooo much nicer than wood for me. A couple of questions, I see that most doors use a continuous hinge- would that be an issue with using flashing? I would imagine that using shorter fine thread sheet metal screws would work with this flashing when attaching trim rings of windows and door hinges.

Thanks!

.

 

[ghcoe]

I'm a former sheet metal worker in the military so working with flashing would be sooo much nicer than wood for me. A couple of questions, I see that most doors use a continuous hinge- would that be an issue with using flashing? I would imagine that using shorter fine thread sheet metal screws would work with this flashing when attaching trim rings of windows and door hinges.

Thanks!.

I have not got to mounting any door hinges yet. The plan, as it is now, is to use pop rivets to attach the continuous hinges to the frames. Screws may work just fine. The way I made my door frames there are two layers of flashing for the screws to bite into.

Also, I want to mention that I have found latex caulk to be a good gluing media for flashing too. The nice thing about caulk is that it does not foam. I think the caulk is also better than Gripper because it is thick and fills voids better.

I guess I should show how I made my own door jambs with flashing and beading here.

 

[Toby-TNT]

Hmmm, the big box stores carry 10 foot sections of 1.5"x1.5" but one edge is curved slightly outwards. Or they carry 4"x4" in 7 inch lengths.... maybe I can find a roofing store nearby. Otherwise I'm going have to do a lot of cutting or hammering.

 

[ghcoe]

I found HD to have the best selection. Usually 1"x1", 1"x2", 2"x2", 3"x2". Weird that they would not have it in your area. Might take a look again. Also look in the drywall area for beading.

 

[OP827]

Hi George,
Thanks for recording your experience here. I think your method is interesting and useful. I should save time vs. using wood inserts etc.
Did you try using PL Premium adhesive for installing flashing to foam?

 

[ghcoe]

Hi George,
Thanks for recording your experience here. I think your method is interesting and useful. I should save time vs. using wood inserts etc.
Did you try using PL Premium adhesive for installing flashing to foam?

I have not used PL Premium. I do believe others here have attempted to use it for some other applications and were not very pleased with the results. Lately I have been using regular caulking with great results with bonding. I bonded the flashing around my doors with it and then realized I had to remove it. Foam tore out before the caulking gave way. Make me a believer. Just make sure you clean flashing and beading real well. I use alcohol to wipe it down with.

 

[OP827]

Hi George,
Thanks for recording your experience here. I think your method is interesting and useful. I should save time vs. using wood inserts etc.
Did you try using PL Premium adhesive for installing flashing to foam?

I have not used PL Premium. I do believe others here have attempted to use it for some other applications and were not very pleased with the results. Lately I have been using regular caulking with great results with bonding. I bonded the flashing around my doors with it and then realized I had to remove it. Foam tore out before the caulking gave way. Make me a believer. Just make sure you clean flashing and beading real well. I use alcohol to wipe it down with.

Maybe I should do a sample. Previously I did glue ply to xps foam with PL Premium and it was the strongest joint out of many I have tested, except epoxy. I think a clean metal surface is the key and second, being one component polyurethane, it needs some air access to cure properly. Probably best would be any brand 2K polyurethane adhesive (Polyol and Isocyanate Hardener) that will hold best and does not require air to cure, though it is not available in retail.

 

[Toby-TNT]

So, let me get this straight. Metal to foam using Great Stuff (GS) or Latex Caulking (LC). Paint the metal with Gripper to get TB2 for canvasing to stick. Has anyone gotten results back with the Gripper/TB2 combination yet?

 

[ghcoe]

So, let me get this straight. Metal to foam using Great Stuff (GS) or Latex Caulking (LC). Paint the metal with Gripper to get TB2 for canvasing to stick. Has anyone gotten results back with the Gripper/TB2 combination yet?

I do believe a few people have applied canvas over Gripper or other latex based paints. Not sure about the metal flashing/beading combo though besides myself. There was one who applied plastic beading with gripper and then canvased over that. That build has had some usage without issues as far as I know. I believe the TBII bonds well to the Gripper in my experiences with using it in that combo. As long as the Gripper sticks well to the metal all should go well. You can check out my canvasing procedure starting on page 28 of my build listed below. I used gripper a lot to help in the fairing process with spackle. At one point I had to cut the canvas straight once it was bonded to the body. The result when I pulled the canvas strip off the body was gripper and spackle pulled off with it down to the foam layer. So yes I believe TB II bonds well to Gripper and Gripper bonds well to most everything else.

 

[tac422]

There was one who applied plastic beading with gripper and then canvased over that. That build has had some usage without issues as far as I know.

I suspect that's The Big Pink you're thinking about .
I used Gripper to glue plastic drywall molding on all exposed edges, inside and out. (use quilting straight pins or wood skewers to hold in place until dry.)
The gripper worked great and it has held up extremely well for a couple years now.

My build shows that starting here ...
viewtopic.php?f=55&t=56441&start=15

 

[Toby-TNT]

I finally found some 2x2in flashing. Actually I found two types; one is 0.01 thickness and weighs 1.4# (E4 Galvinizer Edge) and the other one is 25 gauge and weighs 2.44 ( 2 in. x 2 in. x 10 foot angle). I'm inclined to go with the heavier flashing. Both at HD. What do you think?

 

[ghcoe]

If using for attachment points I would probably go with the heavier. If just for edge hardening I don't think it would matter much.

 

[ghcoe]

So, let me get this straight. Metal to foam using Great Stuff (GS) or Latex Caulking (LC). Paint the metal with Gripper to get TB2 for canvasing to stick. Has anyone gotten results back with the Gripper/TB2 combination yet?

Ok a little test this weekend does show that indeed TBII bonds to Gripper. In fact, I think this combo may be a better bond than just using TBII to foam. It seems the gripper bonds better to the foam than TBII and TBII bonds real well to Gripper....

So I had a piece of foam that was coated with Gripper on one side and was bare foam on the other. I took some painters paper and glued it to both sides of the foam.

Once dried I tried to peal the paper off of the foam that just had TBII applied. I was able to easily get my fingernail under the paper and pull it away from the foam.

Now for the side with Gripper. I had a hard time getting ahold of the paper with my fingernail. Once I did get ahold of it, it was hard to try and get the paper to peel up and would tear. As you can see the TBII and Gripper bond never failed. You can see where I had to gouge into the foam to try and get the paper to lift up.

Finally I was able to get a good grip on the paper and was able to carefully pull the paper back. It was harder to pull back than with just the TBII and paper. So this makes be a believer that the Gripper is a viable medium to apply before the application of TBII for a good bond to dissimilar materials.

 

[GPW]

THANKS !!!! That’s a Great test !!! Now we know !!! We need a Test sticky' ... a place for new builders to find out what’s been tested and what works for sure ... Without it , this valuable information is quickly “lost" in the archives ... and that’s a shame !

GH, possessed of such great thoughts , maybe you can suggest some type of flashing thingie’ we can use on the rounded nose of our trailer ... Going for a “drip edge” effect. Right now I’ve got Al tape and Gorilla tape doing the temporary service ( Picture) ... Need to come up with something elegantly simple , like flashing perhaps ... Any ideas ???

 

[ghcoe]

GH, possessed of such great thoughts , maybe you can suggest some type of flashing thingie’ we can use on the rounded nose of our trailer ... Going for a “drip edge” effect. Right now I’ve got Al tape and Gorilla tape doing the temporary service ( Picture) ... Need to come up with something elegantly simple , like flashing perhaps ... Any ideas ???

I have not tried this but have thought about running this flashing along the bottom edge of a foamie. I think it would also make a cool design line too. So I would use the wide edge up against the side of the trailer then the sort flange would go up against the bottom of the floor. I would use that flange for a hard attachment such as screws if you wanted to. To make the front curve I would take tin snips and cut slots into the short flange every 1" or so. The rest should bend just fine. I would use caulking to glue the large side up against the wall.

The good thing is this stuff is pretty thrifty and if you don't like it your not out much. So maybe it is time for a test.....

 

[GPW]

That looks pretty workable !!! Thanks !!!