Vents, rain, and boondocking

[lonestar_shawn]

Hi everyone,
This is my first post. I did search the forum and found some information, but not exactly what I'm looking for. Short version: what solutions do people use for ventilation while boondocking in heavy rain?

Long version: every year I do a week long camping trip in a primitive campsite. That's a full week with no electric hookup, no generators, etc. Over the past few years several times there have been torrential rains that flooded the campsite. The temperature can also get up to 100 degrees Fahrenheit. We've had some high winds that have destroyed pop up campers and blown tents away. I typically tent camp but I'd like a little more protection from the weather. However, I'm curious how a teardrop or cargo conversion would handle ventilation in this circumstance. Even using 12v computer fans with some kind of covered vents seems like it would wear down batteries after a few days. It seems like you would need a roof vent with one of those rain covers, and possibly a few other small covered vents on the sides that could be opened without allowing water in.

Thanks for your time!

[48Rob]

Shawn,

Welcome to the group!

A vent cover would be very handy in a hot humid camping scenario with lots or rain.

Many use an easy up type tent over their trailers, both for shade, and rain protection.
If you are camping in high winds, that probably isn't a good option...staying hooked up to the tow car is though!
If you use awning style windows you can leave them partly open in all but driving rain.
A vent in the floor, or protected wall vents help too.
Which would work best for you depends on the trailer style and floorplan.

If you plan to spend a lot of time inside in 100 degree temps while it is raining, I don't think any ventilation system short of A/C will be very comfortable!

I have a floor vent in my standie with a fan that draws air from under the trailer, and the usual roof vent and windows. During a rain, we vent what we can, but it can still be sticky.
Static ventilation, if you are concerned about energy use, will be tough. You will need a lot of square feet of window or vent space if using power assist is not an option.

Rob

[Rainier70]

The covered vents work very well. The 8 inch computer fans that I use in my vent and windows only uses 0.3 amps on high. If you have a good battery, that is not going to run your battery down very quick.

[working on it]

Hi everyone,
This is my first post. I did search the forum and found some information, but not exactly what I'm looking for. Short version: what solutions do people use for ventilation while boondocking in heavy rain?

Long version: every year I do a week long camping trip in a primitive campsite. That's a full week with no electric hookup, no generators, etc. Over the past few years several times there have been torrential rains that flooded the campsite. The temperature can also get up to 100 degrees Fahrenheit. We've had some high winds that have destroyed pop up campers and blown tents away. I typically tent camp but I'd like a little more protection from the weather. However, I'm curious how a teardrop or cargo conversion would handle ventilation in this circumstance. Even using 12v computer fans with some kind of covered vents seems like it would wear down batteries after a few days. It seems like you would need a roof vent with one of those rain covers, and possibly a few other small covered vents on the sides that could be opened without allowing water in.

Thanks for your time!

I pieced together parts of three of my posts/threads (into 2 parts) to show a possible solution to your dilemma. Preface: I wanted waterproof vents, preferably not having to put in a vulnerable spot (less chance for damage? tree limbs, hail, meteorites?) , and made of steel. Having run a shipping/receiving dock for years, I see trailers with all types of venting, and wanted to emulate that in my build (also an automotive-type piece, which I was leaning towards as a sub-motif). I narrowed the choice down to two "enclosed trailer vents", normally roof-mounted, but would serve even better mounted on the sides. Here's a comparison of the two "finalists" I chose between: http://www.etrailer.com/comparison.aspx?pc=RV-626-062&pc2=9139 Primary usages are to admit insect-free ambient air, and expel humid stale air. Computer case fans are mounted behind them, to make them more efficient, at a low power cost. The vents were to be sealable, waterproof, screened, and rust-resistant. I chose the Redline 9139 (also partly because it looks like a drive-in speaker!), and it has a butterfly closure for tunability.

• case fan on swing-away mount
• butterfly closure interior
• galvanized waterproof exterior

Thread 1:

So in theory a few case fans would be sufficient. I couldn't find your build thread to answer the next question of how did you run them for best ventilation vs waterproofing and how many amps do they draw? Thinking if I can trim the amps I can get a cheaper battery.

I have tested/used two high static pressure Corsair SP-120 case fans (bought to force-flow air thru close-set, weatherproof vent covers - normally very restrictive) which flow 62.75 cfm each (125.5 cfm total) in my 81 cubic foot cabin (unfilled, available airspace, max), so I get the air exchanged every 38.725 seconds while just drawing .18 amphours each at 12vdc. I tested them one hot night, and only resorted to adding my .275 amphour draw (x 1.2, since run off the battery thru an inverter), when I wanted it cooler for sleep. As I reported here, from an earlier post:

At my first trailer gathering, as I showed some of them my trailer's features, someone remarked that "if your trailer is as airtight as you say, then you'd better leave the butterfly vents open". Another commented that the placement of the vents being high up on the walls, would not vent out any accumulating CO2 (heavier than air?). That worried me a bit. So during my first night out, I opened each vent halfway, and ran the A/C. It froze me down to 65 degrees before I figured the right setting to maintain 72 degrees (still used a comforter). Later that night, I awoke as the electrical had come unplugged (kids in camp next door?), and I still was under the covers and hot. So, instead of getting up and restoring 110vac power, I decided to test the 12vdc case fans as ventilators, with no main fan, nor A/C running. I turned them on, opened the butterfly vents all the way, and settled back to see. After 3-4 hours (as I listened to my MP3 player),I was still breathing, though the trailer cabin was now at 86 degrees and humidity 75%. Livable, but not comfortable. The test was a success, so I turned on my inverter to run my 110vac fan off the battery (still didn't get out to fix the unplugged park power line), and I went back to sleep. The next night, I didn't even need the A/C anyway, and slept soundly , assured that the computer case fans or the bigger 110vac-powered fan moved enough CO2 out the vents to keep me alive.

I didn't even bother opening the two side windows, as the fan (on low speed) actually made it cool enough that I still covered up with the comforter. It didn't reduce the humidity, but felt good enough for me. Combined, the two different types of fans performed excellently, and even if it had been pouring rain or (blowing it sideways), no possibility of leaks, as no open windows or unshielded (side) vents were in play. Total amperage draw was only .69 amps per hour, and I could've done without the case fans once the bigger fan was utilized....Thread 2:
Worst case scenario time...dead-still air inside and out, 110vac power goes away, and since it was working before, the 12vdc fans aren't powered up. As high up as my vents are, couldn't that be an insufficient airflow situation? I guess that the two computer case fans, drawing less than .3 amps each, could be powered up anytime I was in the cabin, to create airflow, and even run 24/7 while in camp, without drawing down the battery (example: 48 hours in camp; .3 amps each x 2 fans x 48 hours = 28.8 amp hours). Roughly 52% of the rated capacity of the Optima Yellowtop. Or even better, just use one case fan. Even if 110vac is also being used to power the A/C unit, or the main fan? Advisable, or not needed? Just checked my facts: the case fans only draw .18 amps @ 12vdc (2350 rpm, 62.75 cfm each). Therefore 1 fan at .18 amps x 48 hours = 8.64 amp hours...a minor draw!.

Summary: If you choose to have side vents, either of the two types shown (on the link) can do the job (paired with awning windows, as 48Rob suggested...I use them also), 12vdc case fans have low power consumption, and keep the air from becoming humid/stagnant, and lastly, any or all combinations of windows-vents-fans-A/C can work if you plan for most all eventualities. I tried a mixture of items that should work for me.

[lonestar_shawn]

Wow, thanks for the responses! I hadn't thought of the "awning" style windows, but that seems like it would be a big help. It also seems like with a good battery system I'd be able to run some computer fans at least some of the time. Does anyone have any sources for awning-type windows? Some google searching didn't turn up much. I did come across these which I guess might be an option if I end up buying a trailer that already has rv sliding windows installed: http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/it ... maxx/13047.

[Mojave Bob]

We use a MaxxFan ceiling fan, which incorporates a fan into a rain-"proof" vent, along with two of these: http://www.amazon.com/Texsport-Spinnaker-Auto-Sports-Shade/dp/B001ASICZ6/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1407260187&sr=8-8&keywords=texsport+side+tent. This way, even in torrential rain, we can keep our windows open, and the fan exhausting air. We get about 3-4 days of running the fan and lights before needing to recharge. I have found these awnings to be pretty stable in the wind, although I am sure they have their limits. I suppose I could also open the awning windows to reduce wind lift, but have never had the need.

[bobhenry]

High temps with high humidity makes camping real miserable real quick. We occasionally camp at a little conservation club that is primitive ( except for the luxury porta potty ) We had been caught in a rain and I simply moved the 10 x 10 gazebo pop up over the teardrop and let the 5 feet extra extend on the down wind side making a porch as such. I run ratchet straps under the belly of the trailer and up to the four corner supports to keep the shelter in place. I have learned another trick if you lower the up wind side of the gazebo, as the wind passes over, it actually pushes down on the top preventing some uplift. One of us can lay in bed if they wish with the door wide open for fresh air and hopefully a little breeze or we can set in our camp chairs and enjoy the weather setting on our little 5 x 10 porch. No fans No batteries !

[Redgloves]

Depending upon your budget, the teardrop can be recharged using solar panels.

I am able to recharge the teardrop batteries by hooking up to the car while running. Takes about 30 minutes to recharge battery.

Jean

[working on it]

Wow, thanks for the responses! I hadn't thought of the "awning" style windows, but that seems like it would be a big help. It also seems like with a good battery system I'd be able to run some computer fans at least some of the time. Does anyone have any sources for awning-type windows? Some google searching didn't turn up much....

win-newcrankout.jpg (35.55 KiB) Viewed 1959 times

http://www.teardrops.net/teardroptrailerparts.html

• Li'l Bear Teardrop Side Windows
  •
  
  part item #
  12"H x 18"W Screened Crank-Out Window
  Untinted, Black Powdercoated aluminum frames
  ________________________________________ Cost: $53.00 each,
  plus S&H
  12"H x 30 "W Screened Crank-Out Window
  Untinted, Black Powdercoated aluminum frames
  ________________________________________ Cost: $61.00 each,
  plus S&H
  15"H x 18"W Screened Crank-Out Window
  Untinted, Black Powdercoat aluminum frames
  ________________________________________ Cost: $56.00 each,
  plus S&H
  15"H x 24"W Screened, Crank-out Window
  Untinted, Black Powdercoated aluminum frames
  ________________________________________ Cost: $61.00 each,
  plus S&H
  15"H x 30"W Screened, Crank-out Window
  Untinted, Black Powdercoated aluminum frames
  ________________________________________ Cost: $64.00 each,
  plus S&H

After two years of searching for my best option (took that much time to get to that point in my long, long, build), I finally decided on what many others had used for their windows ( I hadn't seen one in person, but relied on word of mouth references). And sourced from a respected member of this forum. I bought the 15"x18". Great window!

[Lgboro]

I have only a 55 amp battery with a 80 watt solar system and have spent many nights without power including a 2 month cross country trip. With lights, fans and either television or radio running all night I only use between 14 and 18 amps of the 30 amps I would feel safe draining my battery to. The solar panel makes short work of recharging my battery without a thought from me. I do have a bank of 6 computer fans (hooked up through a dimmer) and all 12 volt accessories to avoid excessive power draw.

[TPMcGinty]

I use a Ventline Vanair in my Tear. When the fan is running it does a good job at keeping the rain out. If I leave the camper and it looks like rain, I shut the vent. Here is a link:

http://www.etrailer.com/Enclosed-Traile ... oCdJnw_wcB

[bc toys]

Tim is the one you got the 6 1/4 round fan I'm liking that one thinking 2 for my cargo would be nice

[TPMcGinty]

Tim is the one you got the 6 1/4 round fan I'm liking that one thinking 2 for my cargo would be nice

Yes. It's a single speed, single direction fan and it's a little noisy, but I like the white noise while I sleep. It also works well. I can feel the breeze sucked in through the windows when it is running.

[Woodbutcher]

If I could only have one thing in my trailer besides windows it would be a good fan. While a little more money you just can not beat a Fantastic fan. They move so much more air and are much quieter then the Vanair. I had a Vanair in my van to give my dogs some ventilation. It was noisy and only worked so so in my opinion. Nothing is worse then stewing in your own juices in a small box when it is hot and humid. The best thing you can do is get a good breeze going. I'll never build a trailer without a Fantastic Fan.