Swivel jack with large range of motion?

[qft]

Hey all -

My trailer swivel jack (similar to this one) has a range of motion that goes from 12"-24", which seems pretty standard. I could really use a few more inches on each end, especially shorter - ideally something like 8"-30".

It doesn't need a ton of weight capacity. Something rated for 700 tongue weight would definitely be more than enough. Any suggestions?

[lrrowe]

qft,
I am with you on needing a little more extension or being able to lower the tongue a few more inches. I end up using a sepatate jack-stand to allow more blocks under the main jack to get extra height, or I end up having to use the separate jack-stand so as to be able to remove the wheel assy so as to go lower.

[qft]

Yeah. I carry a jack and stands in the toolbox right now, though I'd much prefer to not have to dig it out every time I want to set up.

I did some hunting, and according to Fulton's site the 141133 model starts around 10", which is better. It's also pricey ($130-ish) and is probably overkill for my 800lb camper. Still looking for other options!

[lrrowe]

I am interested in a power jack. I wonder what their range is?

[bobhenry]

Having the same problem with the jack not raising high enough I had a welder buddy of mine well a 1/4 plate to the side of the tongue. This allowed me to bolt the jack about 4" higher than the junk hardware would allow. By raising the jack it essentially increased the raised height to allow me to swing the tongue to the transport position. Top of ball height as an industry standard is approx. 17" so a lift between 12 and 24 should be more than adequate providing the jack assembly is positioned in about the center of that range. After all 3-4 inches should be all that is required to engage and disengage the ball from the coupler.

[Redneck Teepee]

This one adds an extra 10" of height with automatic spring retraction.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... AhbA8P8HAQ

[lrrowe]

This one adds an extra 10" of height with automatic spring retraction.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... AhbA8P8HAQ

This one has potential for me. Thanks. I have not only the range problem, but another one where the pole and crank hit my tailgate when lowered. I also do not want all the tonque weight on a side bar on the CT. I need to find a drawing so I can investigate modifying and my CT to mount it permanetly in the center line of my tongue.

I especially like the quick drop down and retreating up feature of the foot. It just seems that it would be quicker to use at the camp site.

[bentrotor]

I am missing the problem? If you want the trailer higher, don't you just throw something under the jack before you start to crank the jack down? I can usually find something lying around. Getting the trailer lower is a different subject. Do you have a wheel on your jack? If so, you might remove the wheel and gain about 4 - 5 inches, that's if you can do without the wheel. Not trying to sound like a smart azz, just trying to understand and then I might be able to offer several different ideas. Example, if your jack is like the one you referenced to, you might try moving your jack back - farther away from the hitch. This moves the lift point closer to the axle, which means the jack will lift the hitch higher and lower for the same amount of jack travel. I don't know if this helps, but I tried.
Mike

[Redneck Teepee]

This one adds an extra 10" of height with automatic spring retraction.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... AhbA8P8HAQ

This one has potential for me. Thanks. I have not only the range problem, but another one where the pole and crank hit my tailgate when lowered. I also do not want all the tonque weight on a side bar on the CT. I need to find a drawing so I can investigate modifying and my CT to mount it permanetly in the center line of my tongue.

I especially like the quick drop down and retreating up feature of the foot. It just seems that it would be quicker to use at the camp site.

I have used the fixed center mounts on big equipment trailers, and they work very well on jobsites where the terrain is uneven, camping conditions are usually uneven also. I believe this will fix it .

[lrrowe]

I am missing the problem? If you want the trailer higher, don't you just throw something under the jack before you start to crank the jack down? I can usually find something lying around. Getting the trailer lower is a different subject. Do you have a wheel on your jack? If so, you might remove the wheel and gain about 4 - 5 inches, that's if you can do without the wheel. Not trying to sound like a smart azz, just trying to understand and then I might be able to offer several different ideas. Example, if your jack is like the one you referenced to, you might try moving your jack back - farther away from the hitch. This moves the lift point closer to the axle, which means the jack will lift the hitch higher and lower for the same amount of jack travel. I don't know if this helps, but I tried.
Mike

Who are you addressing this question to?

[bentrotor]

I guess I am addressing (qft) original question regarding raising his trailer higher and lower with his jack. He referenced a amazon ad for a swing away side mounted jack and said it was similar to his. He did not state specifically that he wanted to purchase a completely new jack for his trailer. I only offered options to his problem that may save him some money or even be free. Again, I do not know his issues with his present set up and fail to understand the complete problem. I have probably built over 50 different styles of trailers from 4' x 6' up to 30' goose necks, so it's not like I just fell of the turnip truck, so to speak. Should I have offended anyone in any way, I apologize and will go back to reading posts and keep any ideas, hints, tips, etc. to myself
Mike

[qft]

Sorry for the late reply - busy week/end!

To answer bentrotor - I'm towing behind a fairly low-clearance vehicle, meaning I need a swivel jack with a lower starting point. Otherwise, the trailer isn't far enough off the ground to allow it to swivel down. I have to pull out the real jack, and jack the trailer up higher, so that it's high enough to swivel the swivel jack down. It's annoying. I'd much rather just have a swivel jack that I can simply swivel and crank up, but mine is too long even at it's shortest length to swivel down - it bangs into the ground before fully swiveled. Make sense?

[lrrowe]

gft,
Maybe you might get some ideas from this new thread:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=64194

[bentrotor]

qft,
Starting with the first low budget option, assuming you don't have a welder but do have an electric drill, locate a piece of 1/4" - 3/8" plate steel (Aluminum would work too but you have to go thicker for the same strength) say 5" x 10". Using your existing jack, mark four matching holes, drill and mount the plate to side of trailer tongue using your existing long bolts, nuts, and multi hole straps that came with the jack. Now you are left with a flat surface sticking up above your trailer tongue. Drill holes in the plate again to match the bolt pattern on your jack, get 4 new bolts, nuts, washers, etc. and bolt your jack to the plate. Bam, the pivot point of your jack is higher, therefore your jack will be able to swing down. Just to make it easier to visualize it, hook your trailer to the tow vehicle of choice, stand the loose jack next to the trailer tongue, and this will roughly tell you how tall the plate needs to be. Be sure to add a little more height to the plate to allow for vehicle sag, maybe a couple 2 x 4 under the jack foot just to take the math out of it. If you have access to a welder, the possibilities expand greatly, but the basic idea stays the same. Some may say that the plate sticking up will not be able to take the stress due to the added leverage, that is why I said1/4" - 3/8" thick (possibly even thicker since I do not know your particular details or situation) or even adding gussets, but this does work and I know from personal experience. I built a trailer for a friend that wanted to haul sack feed for his deer feeders and wanted to tow it behind his 4 wheeler - same problem as yours. This is not the only solution, but it is a very low buck solution.
Good luck, bentrotor

[bentrotor]

qft,
Starting with the first low budget option, assuming you don't have a welder but do have an electric drill, locate a piece of 1/4" - 3/8" plate steel (Aluminum would work too but you have to go thicker for the same strength) say 5" x 10". Using your existing jack, mark four matching holes, drill and mount the plate to side of trailer tongue using your existing long bolts, nuts, and multi hole straps that came with the jack. Now you are left with a flat surface sticking up above your trailer tongue. Drill holes in the plate again to match the bolt pattern on your jack, get 4 new bolts, nuts, washers, etc. and bolt your jack to the plate. Bam, the pivot point of your jack is higher, therefore your jack will be able to swing down. Just to make it easier to visualize it, hook your trailer to the tow vehicle of choice, stand the loose jack next to the trailer tongue, and this will roughly tell you how tall the plate needs to be. Be sure to add a little more height to the plate to allow for vehicle sag, maybe a couple 2 x 4 under the jack foot just to take the math out of it. If you have access to a welder, the possibilities expand greatly, but the basic idea stays the same. Some may say that the plate sticking up will not be able to take the stress due to the added leverage, that is why I said1/4" - 3/8" thick (possibly even thicker since I do not know your particular details or situation) or even adding gussets, but this does work and I know from personal experience. I built a trailer for a friend that wanted to haul sack feed for his deer feeders and wanted to tow it behind his 4 wheeler - same problem as yours. This is not the only solution, but it is a very low buck solution.
Good luck, bentrotor