jgrote wrote:Although I personally see no need for 5" high, I have noticed in a lot of the responses that getting into the garage seems to be a big issue. Has anyone thought of installing airbags on the suspension so it could be lowered? I have a buddy with a flat trailer with a homemade axle and air shocks for suspension. He can deflate the shocks and lay the frame on the ground.
I also see no need for a 5' high, at the present time, if I was to use it for
single person camping, occasionally. That's what mine was built for. But, I also see a need for a taller, roomier trailer (of my manufacturing, not my wife's 20 footer), if a)we were to
both camp in it together, b)either of us were to use it where we couldn't set up the "peripherals" - (canopy, porta-potty with cover tent, external cooking and cooler stands) due to time, weather, or space constraints, or c)becoming too physically inflexible to enter/exit/move around in the little 4x8 cabin. My next trailer (hopefully not too long till I can!) will be built to meet these three "new" refinements. I built the present trailer to the max height that I could fit into my garage/shop: made on a spring-suspension frame, 12 foot long, which is 24" to the floor (after installing 14" wheels/tires), and after adding the superstructure >> the thickness of the floor(3/4")+wall height(48")+roof(3/4")= 24+3/4+48+3/4 = 73.5" total height, it will barely fit into my garage bay, partially due to the angle of the slope into it. Build #2 will have to be stored outside, so 5' high (or maybe more) will be the order of the day. Even if I had used a different suspension on #1, it still wouldn't have squeezed under the door very easily, so I don't regret going that direction then. But, on the next one, a longer-taller-wider design, any of the 5'+tall designs would fit the bill. For
TnTTT purposes, a teardrop shape is a must, but again, I will probably go outside the box on my #2 build.
And, as to the 4x8 sheet of plywood versus the 5' size needed for construction problem: if one needs to join two pieces together, when using an outer skin and probably inner skin or framework, why not use these:

- Simpson Strong-Tie plywood sheet connectors
- 188c-2011.gif (40.22 KiB) Viewed 1387 times
as long as the overall structure is supported properly, and sealed from water/wind intrusion, the mechanically-fastened-together pieces would make assembly possible even for the woodworking novices like me (no biscuits,splices,dovetails,glue-ups, etc. needed).