Adding a water tank

[Eric Krag]

Gang...
Please advise me, I found a 15 gallon low profile tank to fit above my axle on my Silver Shadow.

I'm avoiding adding the typical side wall hole, hole in the floor application for the tube to fill it. How can I fill the tank. By screwing on a fill tube (hose connector)? Use a 12 v pump? It is a consideration to fill from a bucket... etc. I do carry a cordless drill.
Having a gravity drain is fine for my, I'll have one corner low for that. Also, do the vents have a one way valve for no water loss?

Thanks... I really want to carry water under there. I can filter the water afterwards for drinking. e

[S. Heisley]

Gang...
Please advise me, I found a 15 gallon low profile tank to fit above my axle on my Silver Shadow.

I'm avoiding adding the typical side wall hole, hole in the floor application for the tube to fill it. How can I fill the tank. By screwing on a fill tube (hose connector)? Use a 12 v pump? It is a consideration to fill from a bucket... etc. I do carry a cordless drill.
Having a gravity drain is fine for my, I'll have one corner low for that. Also, do the vents have a one way valve for no water loss?

Thanks... I really want to carry water under there. I can filter the water afterwards for drinking. e

Hi Eric:

People are going to need more information before they try to answer your questions.

-Is the tank made to carry water?
-Is it a pressurized tank?
-Where are its current entrances and exits?
-How do you intend to use this water? ...Shower? ...Sink? ...Hose bib on the outside with a bucket or tub?
-Do you have a sink that you will be plumbing it to? If so, where is it? Is it in your galley or in your cabin? Ditto, shower location?
-Is it possible to post a picture of the tank, displaying its entrance and exit holes, along with your answers?

[Eric Krag]

RV type clear tank, This holds 11 gallons and only 4.75" deep: http://www.plasticwatertanks.com/p/cmvt ... nco-rvb319

The diagram shows a larger fill in the upper side of front, smaller vent hole up high and lower drain on the lower front, not a pressure tank. 1 1/4" inlet, 1/2" vent, 1/2" exit.

I only want a reservoir, fill- able in the field. I can use a pump from a bucket if necessary, city water fill . For camp water in remote places, gravity drain (hopefully from a lowered corner with a valve on the side. Also avoiding a vent coming up through the floor. Clearance is important.

Extending connections in and out from underneath would be nice, sealed for no dirt, no drooping to catch off road. Curious if there might be a one way vent device, no loss from splashing.

I can't pull a diagram with my iPad, maybe tomorrow with my Mac.

[kramergwt]

Hi, I thought about the same things. I ended up just opting to fill and vent through the side. You could always cut one less hole and fill through a system entry point in the galley. ...but you’d still be running plumbing through the floor. I decided to just make it easy to fill with it all closed up. Also, if you plan to drink water from that tank, check that the tank, plumbing and pump are all rated for potable water. My pump is not. ...but I made my system for washing dishes and showers. Also, I found a 22 gallon tank that I can sneak under the floor with plenty of ground clearance.
Some pictures...
http://www.flyingwood.com/wordpress/201 ... -finished/


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[Eric Krag]

I'll purify when I drink it. Otherwise shower, wash dishes, have water fights. I do have The Road shower on the tear rack for that stuff. It's basically my water barrel at center of gravity. Don't want the external add on water containers,looks too busy.

[S. Heisley]

RV type clear tank, This holds 11 gallons and only 4.75" deep: http://www.plasticwatertanks.com/p/cmvt ... nco-rvb319

The diagram shows a larger fill in the upper side of front, smaller vent hole up high and lower drain on the lower front, not a pressure tank. 1 1/4" inlet, 1/2" vent, 1/2" exit.

I only want a reservoir, fill- able in the field. I can use a pump from a bucket if necessary, city water fill . For camp water in remote places, gravity drain (hopefully from a lowered corner with a valve on the side. Also avoiding a vent coming up through the floor. Clearance is important.

Extending connections in and out from underneath would be nice, sealed for no dirt, no drooping to catch off road. Curious if there might be a one way vent device, no loss from splashing.

I can't pull a diagram with my iPad, maybe tomorrow with my Mac.

Thanks for the fast response! That looks like an excellent tank and I doubt you could do better with that picture and description.

Below is a picture of my favorite under-carriage/side controls:



From looking at your pictures, it looks like you have a teardrop, possibly a Little Guy. I would think that you could do something similar to the picture shown above, maybe bolting an additional, thinner piece of 'C' channel, or something of that nature, to the carriage. Get your exterior connections first and then see how big your bolted piece would have to be. Then drill holes for the connections and for attachments and fit them in. You might be able to use the existing chassis channel, without the additional piece; but, you'll have to decide that. You don't want to compromise/weaken the existing chassis by drilling too many holes too close together. That's why I suggest adding a piece, to be on the safe side. Once you have the exterior connections, you can use either plumbing fittings up to your tank or hoses; or possibly a combination of both. If you use hoses, you may want to upgrade those from what is sent with the tank. There is a hose that you can buy at the local box stores that is reinforced and stronger. You'll see what I mean when you look at the water tank hose material. Metal plumbers tape may be okay to use to secure the tank under the deck. Place the tank according to your available space. Remember to allow for the spring action of the undercarriage when your trailer goes through potholes, etc.

Water tanks have a tendency to add an unpleasant taste to the drinking water. However, I would think that a good water filter could remove that taste and ensure safe drinking water. Remember to add a small amount of bleach to your water, if you are using well water or any source other than city water. That will usually help prevent various types of growths in stored water and the tank. (You probably already know this.) While I do not use my water tank for drinking water, I do use a Berkey water filter. Berkey recommends not filtering your water for drinking or cooking with until near the time when you are ready to use it. This is because the water purifying filter also removes the bleach, thus, removing the added protection that was there.

The bucket with a tube and pump idea to fill the tank when a hose connection isn't available is a good one! Remember also to balance your load, taking into account the amount of water that you are carrying in your tank. Water weighs approximately 9 pounds per gallon.

Others may/will speak up, based on my comments or their own experiences. Welcome those thoughts and chose what will work best for you.

Best Wishes!

[Eric Krag]

I like the early style application you have there! My old plumber friend Stanley would have approved! e

[S. Heisley]

...Not mine. Belongs to a friend.

[kramergwt]

I LOVE how classic that looks


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