Wheel well help!

[Squigie]

I'm a fan of steel for wheel tubs. They take a beating.

Fabricate from sheet. Add a flange.
Bolt down (with a gasket or sealer, if you want) and seal all edges and corners with automotive seam sealer (caulk type, not the paintable type).
My preference for automotive seam sealer is not shared by some people here; but I think it holds up better to vibration and flexing - something very important for a part of the trailer that will receiver regular impacts - it can be painted, and it can be laid in quite thick to fill big gaps, if necessary.

Remember, it doesn't have to be round. You can bend something up as a hexagon, octagon, or even just a rectangular box.
If you don't have access to a welder, even riveting the thing together would work. It just requires more bends to form flanges for riveting.


It seems like you prefer working with wood. Perhaps the better compromise here is building the wheel tub out of wood and then lining it with sheet metal.

[peterlevins]

I'm a fan of steel for wheel tubs. They take a beating.

Fabricate from sheet. Add a flange.
Bolt down (with a gasket or sealer, if you want) and seal all edges and corners with automotive seam sealer (caulk type, not the paintable type).
My preference for automotive seam sealer is not shared by some people here; but I think it holds up better to vibration and flexing - something very important for a part of the trailer that will receiver regular impacts - it can be painted, and it can be laid in quite thick to fill big gaps, if necessary.

Remember, it doesn't have to be round. You can bend something up as a hexagon, octagon, or even just a rectangular box.
If you don't have access to a welder, even riveting the thing together would work. It just requires more bends to form flanges for riveting.


It seems like you prefer working with wood. Perhaps the better compromise here is building the wheel tub out of wood and then lining it with sheet metal.

Thank you. Yeah, I'm good with woodworking but metal I haven't since high school, oh just a "few" years ago lmao. I'm thinking that direction as well and going to Lowes to see what they have for sheets and then stopping at a fabricator to see what they can do, if they can.
If this were just a box, I'd be able to solve it easy but the part that still gets me is the wall attachment side. I put an arch in the exterior wall to show the wheel. so 3 sides flat, one arch. it's the arch side attachment that gets me as that will also be attached after the floor is built

[peterlevins]

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[Philip]

Any fab shop could bend that style up real easy. Its nothing special.

They would bend the mounting flange first. Cut a 90 degree notch in the mounting flange bend points. Then use the end of the forming die in the brake press for bending.

For a fender I would recommend 16 gage metal. If you plan it as step or setting on it. Go to 12 gage.

[peterlevins]

I think I’ve come to a solution
It involves cutting up aluminum drip pans for hot water tanks and adding aluminum flashing. Some butyl tape and pop rivets


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[peterlevins]

Any fab shop could bend that style up real easy. Its nothing special.

They would bend the mounting flange first. Cut a 90 degree notch in the mounting flange bend points. Then use the end of the forming die in the brake press for bending.

For a fender I would recommend 16 gage metal. If you plan it as step or setting on it. Go to 12 gage.

The fab shop wanted $320 for the pair. Going DIY method


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[Squigie]

I love that rendering.
The wheel looks like the offspring of a Cragar Torque-Thrust and an Olds 442 wheel, with a '70s style Pontiac trim ring, and an illegible Ford blue oval on the center cap.



(The Nova in my avatar has actual '70s-vintage Oldsmobile wheels on it, and my build plans are based on the factory 14x7" wheels from the Nova. ...But I do have another set of the Olds wheels here, too. Tough call... )

Any fab shop could bend that style up real easy. Its nothing special.

They would bend the mounting flange first. Cut a 90 degree notch in the mounting flange bend points. Then use the end of the forming die in the brake press for bending.

For a fender I would recommend 16 gage metal. If you plan it as step or setting on it. Go to 12 gage.

The fab shop wanted $320 for the pair. Going DIY method


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Didn't want the job and priced themselves out of it intentionally. That, or they interpreted the drawing very literally and wanted to over-complicate it.

[peterlevins]

I love that rendering.
The wheel looks like the offspring of a Cragar Torque-Thrust and an Olds 442 wheel, with a '70s style Pontiac trim ring, and an illegible Ford blue oval on the center cap.



(The Nova in my avatar has actual '70s-vintage Oldsmobile wheels on it, and my build plans are based on the factory 14x7" wheels from the Nova. ...But I do have another set of the Olds wheels here, too. Tough call... )

Any fab shop could bend that style up real easy. Its nothing special.

They would bend the mounting flange first. Cut a 90 degree notch in the mounting flange bend points. Then use the end of the forming die in the brake press for bending.

For a fender I would recommend 16 gage metal. If you plan it as step or setting on it. Go to 12 gage.

The fab shop wanted $320 for the pair. Going DIY method


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Didn't want the job and priced themselves out of it intentionally. That, or they interpreted the drawing very literally and wanted to over-complicate it.

They are original Cragar SS rims 14x9


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[noseoil]

If you can find some .060" aluminum, I would just laminate some plywood with the metal skin first (like formica work), then build the box with a good adhesive (Sikaflex or epoxy perhaps?). This would be a good, strong, simple solution to a waterproof, gravel resistant box. You would need to pre-drill some pilot holes for assembly, but it would last well, be cheap & functional.

[peterlevins]

If you can find some .060" aluminum, I would just laminate some plywood with the metal skin first (like formica work), then build the box with a good adhesive (Sikaflex or epoxy perhaps?). This would be a good, strong, simple solution to a waterproof, gravel resistant box. You would need to pre-drill some pilot holes for assembly, but it would last well, be cheap & functional.

Thank you. Yes, I think that’s the direction I’m going in. I’ll look into those adhesives


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[dirtsailor2003]

If you can find some .060" aluminum, I would just laminate some plywood with the metal skin first (like formica work), then build the box with a good adhesive (Sikaflex or epoxy perhaps?). This would be a good, strong, simple solution to a waterproof, gravel resistant box. You would need to pre-drill some pilot holes for assembly, but it would last well, be cheap & functional.

This is how I’d do it too. One step further apply the metal to the back side of the exterior wall also. Then cut the round profile if you want that look. No one will know that the wheel well is rectangular.


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[peterlevins]

If you can find some .060" aluminum, I would just laminate some plywood with the metal skin first (like formica work), then build the box with a good adhesive (Sikaflex or epoxy perhaps?). This would be a good, strong, simple solution to a waterproof, gravel resistant box. You would need to pre-drill some pilot holes for assembly, but it would last well, be cheap & functional.

This is how I’d do it too. One step further apply the metal to the back side of the exterior wall also. Then cut the round profile if you want that look. No one will know that the wheel well is rectangular.


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Why the outside of the box too? Any waterproofing reason?


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[dirtsailor2003]

If you can find some .060" aluminum, I would just laminate some plywood with the metal skin first (like formica work), then build the box with a good adhesive (Sikaflex or epoxy perhaps?). This would be a good, strong, simple solution to a waterproof, gravel resistant box. You would need to pre-drill some pilot holes for assembly, but it would last well, be cheap & functional.

This is how I’d do it too. One step further apply the metal to the back side of the exterior wall also. Then cut the round profile if you want that look. No one will know that the wheel well is rectangular.


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Why the outside of the box too? Any waterproofing reason?

Not the outside. Backside, inside of the exterior side wall of the trailer. Assuming your wall for the side of the trailer encloses the wheel well. Make sense? It’s just a side that could be overlooked. Would be easiest to place the metal before installing the side wall on the trailer.

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[peterlevins]

If you can find some .060" aluminum, I would just laminate some plywood with the metal skin first (like formica work), then build the box with a good adhesive (Sikaflex or epoxy perhaps?). This would be a good, strong, simple solution to a waterproof, gravel resistant box. You would need to pre-drill some pilot holes for assembly, but it would last well, be cheap & functional.

This is how I’d do it too. One step further apply the metal to the back side of the exterior wall also. Then cut the round profile if you want that look. No one will know that the wheel well is rectangular.


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Why the outside of the box too? Any waterproofing reason?

Not the outside. Backside, inside of the exterior side wall of the trailer. Assuming your wall for the side of the trailer encloses the wheel well. Make sense? It’s just a side that could be overlooked. Would be easiest to place the metal before installing the side wall on the trailer.

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Ahh yes. Ok that’s what I planned


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