Safety Issue - Could you please check my camper?

[sophia0606]

sophia0606, you made me look up the specs for a pilot

i'm assuming(i hope knot falsely) your vehicle is equipped with the factory towing package which includes extra cooling capacity for your oil and transmission fluid in addition to providing a hitch n trailer wiring

w/ the advertised 280hp v-6 you will have plenty ponies to wag the weight butt the windage will be your issue going fwd

have you considered a well down the center to allow you to stand up inside w/o having to build up so tall ?

or maybe doing the trolly roof w/ slanted ends to reduce your frontal exposure ?

or possibly a combination of the 2

sw

I really appreciate your help. Unfortunately we already started the roof part, but modified to have more slanted ends based on your comments. I will add more pictures later.

[sophia0606]

I'll rephrase my comment to say yes you can build it exactly as presented, but the same methods and materials used for smaller teardrops may not be strong enough.

I don't think we use the same methods and materials used for the teardrop. We are using 3/4 plywood/1.5" thick foam/2x3 studs/wall panels

[sophia0606]

1) Stopping ability is critical.
- You don't list what state you're from so nobody can check what you can legally tow *and stop* with your car. (but you can!)
- You tell us the size (6x12') but don't tell us what you are using for a trailer. Does it have brakes?

No, it does not have. But we are planning to add it.

2)Just because your Honda pilot can tow 4500 lbs. doesn't mean it should.
- Does it have a tow package? That would protect your Honda's transmission.
- How much is your Honda Pilot rated to stop? (The year it was manufactured and how it was made can be an issue. Check your user manual under brakes or braking or stopping power.)

No, it did not have the tow package. We added the trailer hitch by ourselves. After reading your comment, we are thinking to buy a new suv (probably Kia Telluride) at this point. Our honda pilot is 2008 with 200K miles, so we have been debating to trade the pilot with a new one for quite a while. We will make sure the new suv would have the tow package.

3) Do you want it to fit in your garage?
- If you want to fit it in your garage, even an 8' door may not be enough, if you haven't planned properly.
- You don't tell us the height of your intended trailer chassis so we really can't calculate if it will fit in your garage. (but you can.)
- You don't tell us what the floor to ground height is. (If you're using a reclaimed trailer chassis, some of those have a lower floor frame than the frame that the sides are bolted to.)

Thanks, we made sure that it fits our garage.

4) What is 'form'? Did you mean foam?
- Weight and shape are critical, both for gas mileage and tow-ability and for wind velocity.
- If you don't have enough weight to fight high winds, it will blow over but too much weight will hinder stopping.
- Be aware that even semi trucks have been blown over by high winds

Sorry, it was 'foam'. We are trying to add more weight on the bottom box and add brakes on the trailer.

You can still possibly do this. Make your lifting top out of foam and you should be able to lift it. Use as little wooden framework as possible.

Thanks for your kindly input, but the lifting top is out of option now. I am adding some pictures of the current stages.

I really appreciate your time!!

[sophia0606]

When I started asking a question here, we already built the bottom box (Base box). And we are currently adjusting top box (Cap) design a little bit based on the comments. Here are the real pictures and have more detailed questions about the safety.

1. Structural integrity of separated “Cap” and “Base”: Original plan was to have a Base box and a pop-up Cap. So I built Base first. But for various reason, ended up with attaching Cap (2-ft high) on top of Base (4-ft high). The problem is that the studs in Base and Cap (2 by 3 lumber; every 2-3 ft along the wall) are not single 6-ft long ones, but separated between Base and Cap. I plan to connect/enforce it with 6-ft long studs inside the wall, maybe 3 on each sides screwing on the existing studs. Would this be OK against strong winds from sides?

2. Structural integrity of Cap ceiling: I’m building a ceiling: foam(1.5”) + internal plastic panel (1/8”) + outside wrapped by canvas cloth with Titebond-coating (called poorman’s fiber glass). The frontal side is slanted (25 degree). Vehicle height is 5.5-ft, leaving most Cap area (2-ft high) above the vehicle. Would a ceiling (without solid cover layer like plywood) be strong enough during 70-MPH on highway?

3. Anchoring/locking mechanism: Currently 6x12 wide and 6-ft tall structure (950 lbs) is simply sitting on a 6x12 utility trailer. The trailer has a layer of treated lumber floor. There are about 1.5’’ gap between the camper and the metal guard rail on each side (if necessary, easy to fill this gap by inserting boards). Would you suggest good anchoring/locking mechanism between camper and trailer?

[sophia0606]

Here is the last picture. The post does not allow more than 3 pictures in a post. We really appreciate all your input!!

[S. Heisley]

1. Structural integrity of separated “Cap” and “Base”: Original plan was to have a Base box and a pop-up Cap. So I built Base first. But for various reason, ended up with attaching Cap (2-ft high) on top of Base (4-ft high). The problem is that the studs in Base and Cap (2 by 3 lumber; every 2-3 ft along the wall) are not single 6-ft long ones, but separated between Base and Cap. I plan to connect/enforce it with 6-ft long studs inside the wall, maybe 3 on each sides screwing on the existing studs. Would this be OK against strong winds from sides?

I think I'd add a few metal 'L' brackets where they join, just to be on the safe side. But remember that wind can do whatever it wants. Also, Semi trucks will naturally create a wind that will push at those 6' sides. Therefore, I would also get a set of sway bars for your tongue/hitch area.

How will you seal the area where the top and sides come together to keep water from getting in? A thick layer of PL2000 construction glue?

2. Structural integrity of Cap ceiling: I’m building a ceiling: foam(1.5”) + internal plastic panel (1/8”) + outside wrapped by canvas cloth with Titebond-coating (called poorman’s fiber glass). The frontal side is slanted (25 degree). Vehicle height is 5.5-ft, leaving most Cap area (2-ft high) above the vehicle. Would a ceiling (without solid cover layer like plywood) be strong enough during 70-MPH on highway?

If it's not too late, I'd turn that top around so that the curved end is in front instead of in the back. It's more aerodynamic that way and will save wear and tear on your tow vehicle as well as saving MPG. It will give you a wind assist of sorts instead of fighting the wind so much. You can Google "aerodynamics, slant or curve" but if you go into the depth of the concept, gets into complicated reading.

3. Anchoring/locking mechanism: Currently 6x12 wide and 6-ft tall structure (950 lbs) is simply sitting on a 6x12 utility trailer. The trailer has a layer of treated lumber floor. There are about 1.5’’ gap between the camper and the metal guard rail on each side (if necessary, easy to fill this gap by inserting boards). Would you suggest good anchoring/locking mechanism between camper and trailer?

My personal opinion is that I don't see how the guard rails are a problem but I would definitely anchor your cabin and deck to the trailer. That may be difficult since you've already sealed up your walls. Usually, the wall sides/deck are bolted to the chassis before the inside walls are put in. You may have to get creative.

One last note: It may be an optical illusion but, while your trailer fits in the garage, In picture #2, it looks like you might have to let some air out of the tires to get it through the garage door. Have you pulled it in and out of your garage yet?

Thanks for the pictures. They do help!

Once again, please remember that what we advise here is just personal opinion. Most of us are neither engineers nor gods, You are ultimately in charge of what you decide to do. Even with pictures we can't see nor know everything. Best Wishes!

[QueticoBill]

I think your construction is fine for the size.

I think you'd want the cabin anchored to the trailer. You can achieve lateral anchoring with blocking that prevents lateral movement. It may fit snug now, I can't tell. Vertically, a steel bracket at each corner with a bolt through the deck would work. I used four of these: https://www.rosebrand.com/product1674/Coffin-Lock.aspx

[jandmz]

Won't fit through a normal 7' garage door. Stable (try not to put much storage high to avoid a lot of weight high) but also a lot of wind res is stance when driving and a pretty good wind load on sides if in the open. 50 - 60 mph wind on a side is near 500 pounds.

My garage door is 8', so it might fit I am also worrying about the wind.. Should I change my plan back to "the raised top", not fixed one?

Open your garage and measure the clearance. Most garage doors don't open clear of the opening. The bottom section on some don't go all the way up the curved rail and leave a "little hangy down part" below the opening. So, measure to be sure.