MickinOz wrote:If I was doing it, and it is under consideration for the next build, I would cut my hole, cut my Lexan, drill and bolt down. Once all holes are drilled. I'd lift it all, run in a bead of black silicone and reinstall, with the appropriate solvents and scrapers on hand to clean off squeeze-out. With regard to squeeze-out I find carefully applied electrical tape is great. If you run it right, you can peel it off as soon as you've installed the silicone and instant clean up ensues. as long as you have the will-power to resist the urge to fiddle before the silicone sets.
So basically, form a gasket, in-situ.
Using lexan or other plastic bolted directly to the body, I might have to take into consideration expansion.
I haven't completely though this through yet, but as a first pass I'm thinking the holes should be a little bigger than the screws, and the silicone gasket should be a few mm thick to allow things to move.
Philip wrote:Another small suggestion. If you are using plywood in the roof. Drill the holes oversize. Then fill those holes with epoxy. Let it dry. Then redrill after epoxy sets for the correct size screws. If those screws ever leak. The epoxy plug keeps the ply from becoming a sponge.
John61CT wrote:Caulk
The sailing forums have the experts, have to withstand heavy pounding seas, full submersion life and death mission critical.
even high end yachts DIYers do it like this, they come out looking very clean and professional
Butyl rubber is old school, great for the inner seal under the glass but spacer needed so bolting firm does not squeeze it all out. Then a purpose designed outer sealant for the trim facing edge.
But most just use the latter 3M and Sika make some incredible modern products that are strong adhesive (but you do not want "fully permanent") but also great sealant, firms up but retains eternal flexibility
CruisersForum is my go to
...but I am going with white butyl tape...
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