And it got quiet..everyones gone camping... :)

[catrinka]

[quote="Frank"]Cathy,

You will just have to plan a winter trip down here in the sunny south, it's cool enough here in the winter that you won't need the A/C! And forget the heater, a thin blanket will mostlikely do. When we were in MICH. lot's of people came down for "winter vacations" more like a break from winter! I liked the winters up there, but sometimes they are a little long and a warm, clear sky break is just the ticket.

Frank[/quote


As soon as I have big bucket of money to travel with, I'm on the road. Seriously, one of my goals is to travel all over Canada and the states. But have to make the money first. One day I hope to meet all of you in your home town.

[mikeschn]

re the cpes and 255, which I ordered yesterday. Anything with expoxy is better to recoat within 48 hours. That way, there is a chemical bond as well as a mechanical bond, and no sanding is necessary.

Hey Arne,

I wrote the rot doctor about recoating within 48 hours... here was his response...

In a very general way the statement is true, but everything depends on
*which* epoxy, and exactly what it is you are coating the epoxy with.

Standard epoxies will produce a *very* slick cured surface, and many of
them will also produce what is called a "blush", which are amines that
come to the surface. This blush must be washed off or it will interfere
with the bonding of anything added to the epoxy surface. Our epoxies do
not produce a blush, but our thick epoxy (the Layup & Laminating Resin)
will produce the slick surface. Certain products, such as varnish or
most paints, *can* be applied while the epoxy is still in the curing
phase and it will increase the strength of the bond between the epoxy
and the final coating. Even so, we always recommend that the epoxy
surface be sanded to provide "tooth" for the final coating. Most epoxy
manufacturers will make the same recommendation. I personally would not
apply paint or varnish to a thick epoxy surface without lightly sanding
that surface first.

CPES is not a standard epoxy. It penetrates, and does not leave that
glassy surface that a thick epoxy does (unless 3 or more coats are
applied). Had you said that you were going to paint or varnish the
exterior of your Teardrop, we would have been quite specific in telling
you that as soon as the CPES'd surface became tacky (1/2 to 2 hours
depending on temperature/air movement) or shortly thereafter, the first
coat of the final coating should be applied. This way, the curing epoxy
will lock-in the final coating.

However, you were not applying a varnish or a paint, but an activated
aliphatic polyurethane. The UNIFLEX 255, like all aliphatic
polyurethanes, develops its own strong bond to the surface, which can be
wood, concrete or metal. It's only important that the surface be clean
and contaminant-free. There is even some risk of applying the UNIFLEX
too soon after the CPES because the unevaporated CPES carrier solvents
will tend to dilute the UNIFLEX 255, and any evaporating solvent gasses
can cause tiny bubbles in the UNIFLEX surface.

The reason to use CPES at all on a Teardrop Trailer is to eliminate the
possibility of plywood delamination or wood deterioration in the event
that moisture gets to the wood. CPES prevents this from happening, and
the cured epoxy gives the UNIFLEX a solid and integrated surface to bond to.

Kind of a long answer to a simple question, but it does illustrate some
of the variables involved with coating surfaces with polymer coatings.

Doc
--
The Rot Doctor
http://www.rotdoctor.com
E-mail: [email protected]
Phone: 206 364 2155
Fax: 206 364 4744

[Arne]

I read it, but am a bit confused. Sounds like 255 should not be put on too soon, but am not sure what the time frame is...

re the 255, most coatings 2nd coat adhere better if the first is not fully dry/hardened...

So, cps one day, 1st coat 255 second day, 2nd coat 255 3rd day?

I can understand the bubble problem. Many who seal their new asphalt drives too soon will be able to tell you about that.....

[Frank]

"Can we plan a trip down too?" Sure Mike, and bring all our northern friends with you, we can call it our " Winter Gathering". We have a state park here in Aiken, or if we want cheap and rustic can stay at my brother-in laws pond. There is electric available but no tolet. Have the fith wheel and two porta pottys though
When you want to set the date?

Frank

[mikeschn]

What's a good month to travel to S.C.? We'll have to set the date a little bit closer to winter, and after we've got the Weekender closer to being done!!!

Mike...

[Chip]

Sort of like a migration,,all the snow birds head south,,heck even the beach aint bad most of the winter,,bit nippy at times but you "yanks" prob want to bring ya a/c and go swimming while ya here we locals will just sit by the fire and out of the breeze,,let me know what ya come up with as far a date,,,got power will travel now. Mike I didnt get a pic last night but I assure you it works good,,one other lesson I learned is it does not take a lot of light to fill up a tear,,Its damn bright in there might lower the wattage on the bulbs from stadium lighting to a more comfortable range,,,
heck knoiwng the south, we will get ya'll down here and we will have the largest snow in 50 years,,,but come on

chip