Gluing Formica

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Gluing Formica

Postby LDK » Tue Mar 08, 2011 8:10 am

I'm gonna use formica for the galley counter and I was wondering what kind of adhesive to use. Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.

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Postby Woodbutcher » Tue Mar 08, 2011 8:16 am

Use Contact cement. Apply to both surfaces and wait till it is just barely tacky. When you touch the 2 surfaces together it will stick. Usually there is no second chance. Cut your laminate oversize and trim with a flush bit with a bearing in your router.
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Postby LDK » Tue Mar 08, 2011 8:24 am

Woodbutcher wrote:Use Contact cement. Apply to both surfaces and wait till it is just barely tacky. When you touch the 2 surfaces together it will stick. Usually there is no second chance. Cut your laminate oversize and trim with a flush bit with a bearing in your router.


What brand adhesive. Also flammable or non-flammable adhesive. I'm kinda confused in this area. :thinking:
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Postby bobhenry » Tue Mar 08, 2011 8:26 am

After the contact adhesive is dry to the touch place several small dowel rods on the sub surface and place the formica on the rods work from 1 side and remove a rod at a time and work from one side to the other smoothing as you go. As Woodbutcher said once it touches its is there forever. Cut your skin slightly oversize and trim after securing.
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Postby len19070 » Tue Mar 08, 2011 8:37 am

Wilsonart makes a good adhesive. And can be purchased at the Box Stores. I have found that the Flammable works better than the Non-Flammable.

Once you get your top and your Formica blank ready I usually coat the wood, then the Formica, then the wood again. Let it dry till "Tacky".

When laying the Formica place a series of sticks (apx. 3/4X3/4"....anything really) on the wood. Place the Formica on the sticks. This will elevate the Formica over the wood surface. Position the Formica where you want it, then start removing the sticks from the center out.

You have one shot at this and the stick method works very well.

There is another method where you use Paper instead of sticks but sometimes the paper rips and doesn't want to come out.

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Postby aggie79 » Tue Mar 08, 2011 11:27 am

It's been a long time, but I've used a light cord or heavy string to allow positioning of the laminate before adhering it to the substrate.

Cut the cord into two pieces. Beginning at the midpoint of the surface you are applying the laminate to, lay the cord in a zig-zag pattern (front to back) from the middle to the end. Do the same for the other half. Set your laminate in place. Pull a little bit of the ends of the cords at the middle so that there is room to adhere the middle section of the laminate to the substrate. Apply pressure - a j-roller works best - to adhere it. Then work from the middle out to the ends a little at a time.

(Whether you use dowels, sticks, or string, I think it is easier to work from the middle to the ends.)

If you have vertical edges to laminate too, it is best to do the edges first before the horiizontal surface.
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Postby planovet » Tue Mar 08, 2011 11:38 am

I put Formica on my galley walls and galley hatch. I used contact cement from Lowes.

I poured some out of the can onto the formica and spread it with a smaller napped roller. I found that this was faster and gave you a pretty even coat.

Like mentioned above, make sure of what you are doing because once it sticks, it's stuck forever. Cut your pieces bigger that the area you are putting it on and trim to size with a router.

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Postby LDK » Tue Mar 08, 2011 12:05 pm

I went to lowes looking for the wilsonart adhesive that Len suggested but I couldn't find any so I opted for the 3M hi-strength 90. From what I read it's suppose to be good stuff.
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The counter is roughly 24" x 46" so I figured 1 can should do it. :D
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Postby Woodbutcher » Tue Mar 08, 2011 12:42 pm

Just be sure you have enough cement on both pieces, especially the wood as it soaks it it. Let it dry pretty well. The easiest way to tell if it's dry enough is put your fore arm on the cement. The hair on your arm should only feel a slight tug when you release it. After a few projects you will know with out the "hair test". Also without enough cement you may find some delaminating when the counter is exposed to hot direct sunlight. Once it is down roll the cr@p out of it forcing all the air out. If you don't have a laminate roller use a rolling pin over a towel.
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Postby LDK » Tue Mar 08, 2011 12:46 pm

I just want to thank everyone for their input. :thumbsup: :applause:
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Postby CliffinGA » Tue Mar 08, 2011 12:50 pm

It will just spray both surfaces and let set a few minutes before putting together. I use the super 77 3m to reattach end caps on ctops all the time, and then I always use something to put pressure until its dry.

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Postby Gage » Tue Mar 08, 2011 3:23 pm

LDK wrote:I went to lowes looking for the wilsonart adhesive that Len suggested but I couldn't find any so I opted for the 3M hi-strength 90. From what I read it's suppose to be good stuff.
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The counter is roughly 24" x 46" so I figured 1 can should do it. :D

That's what I use on all my builds and restores and have had no problems. I spray it on both surfaces, wait a couple of seconds and then join the two pieces. Be sure you lay the formica where you want it. Because it doesn't move once you've laid it down. :o ...... ;)
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Postby doug hodder » Tue Mar 08, 2011 9:02 pm

+1 on what Woodbutcher says on the use of a roller. :thumbsup: Doug
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Postby sagebrush » Tue Mar 08, 2011 11:38 pm

:thumbsup: That 3M Hi-strength is GOOD stuff ( technical term). My 2nd choice would be Weldwood flammable contact cement. Will
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