rv refrigerator clearances

[Colemancooler]

http://mobilervmedic.com/ExternalAirFlow.aspx

I found the info above, I am very knowledgeable in air flow and thermal properties of air, I was curious how you have mounted your refrigerators in your tear drops, the way I am thinking now, my refrigerator will have an extra 3 to 4 inches behind it which I was going to line with galvanised sheet metal, and add a small vent on the bottom and a large vent on the top, to promote air circulation over the burner and condenser portion of the fridge. thank you for your help

[bdosborn]

RV Fridge venting is critical if you want your fridge to have any kind of hot weather performance. I took my RV fridge out because it would get warmer than 40F degrees inside whenever it was hotter than 90F outside. I replaced it with a compressor fridge. Here's a link to fridge venting:

Vent Linky

I used the almost good arrangement near the bottom of the page. It wasn't good enough for my fridge, even with all kinds of fan assist. Here's a link to my compressor fridge page:

Tundra Fridge Linky

Bruce

[Colemancooler]

thank you , that is very helpful

[Martiangod]

http://mobilervmedic.com/ExternalAirFlow.aspx

I found the info above, I am very knowledgeable in air flow and thermal properties of air, I was curious how you have mounted your refrigerators in your tear drops, the way I am thinking now, my refrigerator will have an extra 3 to 4 inches behind it which I was going to line with galvanised sheet metal, and add a small vent on the bottom and a large vent on the top, to promote air circulation over the burner and condenser portion of the fridge. thank you for your help

Small vent on bottom and large on top does nothing to help, Top should be actually a touch smaller then the bottom, air acellerates as it drafts through a smaller exit.
Also 3 to 4 inches is too much, If you have that much space you must baffle the fridge, to much air space and the air will stall in warm temps.
Bottom baffle should be at top of bottom door, 1/4 inch from the cooling unit,
Top baffle at same level as bottom of the evaperator



Baffles should be flame proof and to really help with efficiency, fill the void between the baffles, again with flame proof material



Now your bottom vent needs to be as wide as the fridge and accessable (opening)
Best if you didn't get the access door, go to an RV dealer and get the correct one

Of search for an installation manual and stick to the sizes listed

[linuxmanxxx]

I got the little circle vents at lowes cut holes in the floor matching the size and glued them in and then I got the cheapest bathroom vent fan at lowes and mounted it in the galley and a hose running over to exhaust out through my air conditioner venting and got the thermal switch they sell for attic fans and mounted it to automatically turn on the vent fan whenever the galley temp reached the temp I set on the switch and circulates air into the galley to cool my fridge. Works great but now I'm canning it all and just going to the large thermalelectric ice chest from coleman and forget the nightmare of trying to mount a fridge to stay put in the galley. Note in the pic the vent fan is above the microwave and the thermal control is below it mounted sideways to the left of the fridge.