hatch latch/handle

[mike_c]

I'm building my galley hatch! Yay! AND the aluminum supplier called to say he'd gotten three sheets of 5 x 10 0.040 mill finish aluminum for me, so I can pick them up tomorrow. Of course, I need FOUR sheets, but that's another problem. The teardrop will be shiny soon!

I've seen some discussion about the relative merits of using just a plain handle and and side pull latches to hold the galley hatch closed rather than some sort of door latch, locking T-handle, etc. Could anyone with just a handle and the pull latches comment on how well that works? That just seems so much simpler than installing a latch with strike plate, or those sliding rod latches. Of course, pull latches would need two locks rather than one, but that doesn't seem like too much inconvenience.

Something like this (from Grant W's Lil' Bear site):






Then just a stout handle to lift the hatch with. Thoughts?

--Mike C.

[nevadatear]

We use just the handle and side draw latches. We felt it was simpler and could draw it tighter. We are quite happy other than having to take off two locks before opening the hatch. Otherwise it is more secure that way. To open we just used a regular drawer handle. Since we have great hydraulic lifts. It doesn't take much to lift.

[Sparksalot]

I used Grant's draw latches to secure the hatch. To open it, I added a Herreshoff deck cleat I found at Bass Pro.

[planovet]

Handle and side latches work great for us

For a handle I used a marine cleat and for the latches I used some from McMaster Carr

[Oldragbaggers]

I want to use draw latches too, but I am concerned about having them attached or drawing down on the that edge of the exterior hatch skin which will basically be just fiberglassed 1/8" plywood. It would seem that, even with aluminum trim on it, repeated pulling down on it could eventually cause it to fail, no???

[aggie79]

To keep the hatch close, I used two of the rubber draw latches.

(click pictures for a larger image)



For the lifting handle, I used an aluminum handrail (for boats.)





I also bought a hasp so I could lock the hatch, but have never seen the need to do so. My teardrop is stored in the garage and when I'm camping I'm close by the teardrop most of the time. I'd rather someone get in the galley and steal my $70 microwave rather than destroy the hatch.

[Oldragbaggers]

I like your set up, Tom. I have no idea why I didn't think of drawing it down at the bottom instead of over the side. Every draw latch I have seen has been mounted on the side, so that is the image I had stuck in my mind. I would like to have mine lock and locking hasps would work just as well I imagine. Thanks for helping me get my thoughts readjusted!!

[planovet]

I want to use draw latches too, but I am concerned about having them attached or drawing down on the that edge of the exterior hatch skin which will basically be just fiberglassed 1/8" plywood. It would seem that, even with aluminum trim on it, repeated pulling down on it could eventually cause it to fail, no???

Where mine are attached there is at least 1" of material (skin and frame). I've opened and closed them many times over the past three years and they are as tight as the day I installed them.