Ultra-Light Camper?

[Bikerman]

Hi, I know that several might be pulling with smaller cars. I have an 04 Subaru Forester, 2.5 non-turbo with an automatic tranny I need to pull with. The tow rating for it is 2000 pounds I believe. I plan to do some mild off roading to sites.

I'm planning a road trip that may be about 4 months and encounter all kinds of terrain and altitudes, but still mild, no rock crawling or deep fording.

I really like the saw tooth style. But what I need to ask is: Is there any really ultra-light build? I have some carpentry skills, but not welding or fiberglass/foam, so probably need to stick to wood.

I was wondering if an octagon shape would help add strength without extra weight. From the sides of the trailer floor the sides would go out at a 45, then straight up, then back in at a 45 to a flat roof, not an equal sided octagon. Thinking that about a 2 foot straight side wall braced out like that might be stronger and provide more volume than straight sides.

I plan on taking a dual sport bike (330 pounds) on the front of the trailer and the campe behind....is this possible and stay well below the weight limit? The trailer is probably 6/700 pounds. Can you build one at 500 or less? Every pound counts. Suggestions?

[ParTaxer]

You can build lite but don't load heavy and be all right. I have a 2000lb towing capacity and a 3.0 v6. I estimate around 1350lbs of loaded teardrop and I have never felt strain on engine or transmission. I have crossed both the Rockies and the Appalachian mountain ranges with no trouble. I would be more concerned about tongue weight with the bike.

Mike

[Artificer]

Are you talking about using an existing trailer, and adding the teardrop part on the back, or making up a trailer that can have the bike on the front?

If you have the trailer, the teardrop portion can be as little as 200-300lbs. Its possible to go lighter, but you have to work at it. Check out the foamy on this site to see something really light.

I can see a purpose built trailer that can haul the bike and still be under 500-700lbs. That would keep you under 1000lbs before adding camping gear. If you use a manufactured trailer its going to be difficult to keep it that light.

Michael

[rowerwet]

a curved roof is actually stronger than a flat panel roof, the flat panels will need more internal support to keep them from bowing in. my roof is only 1/4" ply and spars every foot, I can climb around on it no problem, if it was a flat panel of 1/4" ply I wouldn't tempt fate like that.

[Bikerman]

Thank you! I just found the "see your posts" button, I looked and lost some questions.....

Yes, I have an existing trailer, pretty stout with all steel, with a loading ramp that drops, can stay straight out or up.

It has side rails of angle with expanded steel on the sides but only goes up about 18", so I was thinking the cabin could fit the floor and go over the sides taking the outside walls flush with the tires.

My galley would probably be forwad and if cooking outside I'd have to watch my chins! The galley issue is in another thread about pass-through cooking.

I like the sawtooth design and would like a lift top, all hard sided would be best for me, but could use some tentage.

Hoping that I could fold up the sides (inside bed) which would basically store on top of those side rails mentioned.
With a wide opening rear door, my bike could be carried inside (330 lbs dry). The top could drop down allowing for the bike.

Don't mean to ramble but a mini toy-hauler, galley forward, head to one side. I also have tons of materials to make add on tentage.

I could also use the ramp for outside storage lashed on going down the road, it will make a nice walk up to get inside too.

Really appreciate all the comments, the more info I get the better it will end up, that's for sure! Thanks...

[rowerwet]

all the extras you want to add, add weight, you already have a heavy trailer at 6-700 lbs, most lightweights are built on the harbor freight trailer which is about half the weight of my tractor supply trailer 300 lbs. then you add a 300 lb bike, with straps , gas etc we now have 1000 lbs.
your car can tow 2,000, so make a simple tear of 1/4 with 1x2 framing at the edges of each panel, door frame etc, add foam board to the voids and use cheap high traffic carpet for the inside walls, and you might end up within that 2,000 lbs limit.
You could go the foamy route but I don't know how that would stand up to rocks, tree limbs, and damage from un/loading the bike and straps, in a dirt road world.
pop ups, faceted walls, etc just make your camper heavy fast, and on dirt 2,000 lbs will be a pain to tow.

[mikeschn]

You might want to run through the tongue weight calculations both with and without the bike on the front, to see if you are within some decent limits.

http://www.angib.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/t ... tear81.htm

Mike...

[S. Heisley]

Pulling 2,000 pounds is a challenge for such a small tow vehicle. If you add sides and/or roof line that go out past the lines of the tow vehicle, you're also adding wind resistance. What may be okay on flat, paved road may not be on a 6 to 10% grade of a mountain or a pot-holed off road location. Also, putting 300 pounds on the tongue, even if you calculate it and find that it's okay, means that any other weight added on the trailer will have to be put way in the back, to compensate; and, even at that, you'll be limited. Food and ice chests will have to be carried in the tow vehicle. I would think you'd be better off if you could put the motorcycle over the trailer's axle.

Also, you might want to consider a combo-build, one with plywood sides and maybe a Styrofoam roof. That would save you a little more weight. If you decide to build a lifting roof model, the roof could be wood framed Styrofoam with waterproof canvas or vinyl sides in the lifting area; but, still plywood on the lower sides. Maybe this build will give you some ideas:

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=46135&start=465

Also, if you're still interested in a lifting roof, take a look at some of these, to get ideas:

www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=50969

At least one of those folding roof builds has a Styrofoam roof; but, they also will give you some of the galley ideas that you were looking for. Please note that with your pull weight limitations, you'll need to keep it really simple, just as you had said; so, these are only to give you ideas. Only you know what is best for you.

[Bikerman]

Wow, I have no idea how I lost a very long post earlier.

Sharon, thanks so much again for the link to all the pop tops......absolutely got ideas and see the possibilities!

I'll make it shorter...I hope;

I'd like to steal your idea Sharon, the floor paln of yours basically. The bike will have to roll in from the rear and go inside the trailer (between the benches), the head and galley forward. The front will probably have a nose similar to the ROAMER, overhanging the front.

I like Mike's set up for a rear entrance and lift top. Not sure how tha back wall attaches or folds out. I do want solid walls. The top, when down will allow a height about 48" so that the bike's windshield clears the top of the ceiling.

I'm thinking of at least a particial rack above and this will be welded to the sides of the frame. I also have a canoe and an inflatable boat, won't take them all the time but could. The top rack will provide a pulley to raise any top and lock it in place.

Sharon, very good idea and I'll head that direction of a combination of ply and foamy top.

My trailer is 2" box mild steel fully welded at all points. It's a tilt trailer, so it has a sub frame with a longer frame above with a steel floor. The ramp can go down without tilting the trailer frame or go straight back or up. So as to tounge weight, since the ramp actually extends the trailer, it can be loaded to adjust the tounge pressure, I like to keep it at about 45 lbs, otherwise it will bounce lifting at the ball and that's not good.

Problem is, I don't know the weight of the trailer empty! I also need to check on the axel capacity, I think it's 2,000 lbs.
The axel is about 40 to45% forward, adding the length of the ramp it would be almost 70%, so loading is critical on the back. A small gen set and some firewood would probably be as far foward on the ramp, that's probably the limit to off set any load.

Sharon, love your rig, as mentioned mine will probably not have wood cabinets due to the weight. I'm thinking wire shelves used for closets and maybe the wire drawers used and then using tupperware or palstic containes (they can be boldted to a wire shelf). It will certainly have a more industrial look.

And, my reason for that pass through galley thread, I'll consolidate my thought here. Cooking outside is acceptable, having to cook outside is not. I have camped for long periods, 2 months as a 13 yr old kid at the lake (yes, the store keepers across the street were keeping an eye on me, I know that now, LOL). I have camped with a tornado less than a mile away. Point being, severe weather can pop up and I don't head home due to weather. I'm a "first in last out" Army type, I'm also older. I can't see trying to take a plate of food inside in a heavy rain or dust storm unless there was an awning/tent set up.

I'd like this light enough for my Subby, I do have an F-150 4x4 as well. If the Subby can pull it, the truck is no problem.

Loading then will be split between the vehicle and trailer, I think the stuff in the trailer will be around 300 lbs, no more. Extra fuel, water, recovery gear and additional personal items will be in the vehicle. I'm in the prcess of building my communications box that will be portable, for the vehicle or the camper. It will have my radios, computer and field antennas, that will be in the vehicle while traveling. Most food will likely be in the vehicle as well. Max, there will be 2 people in the car or truck.

A porta-pottie inside is fine and external water can provide an indoor shower with a curtain. A queen size inflatable bed would be fine, the make some nice ones. Small sink, on top of a fridge would be great and a camp stove secured inside is fine too. Bottle of propane on the tounge (or vehicle). Small heater, I'd like a small A/C unit. House batteries, later on solar for the roof. LED lighting. This stuff is in the back of my mind.

BTW, the Queens Island earth quake, my GF's daughter, turns out she was 7 kilometers away as she is on the island, all is fine and more details may come out, also, the Joplin tornado wasn't too long ago, few years back, we had a pretty bad ice storm, I don't want to get into survival stuff, but I don't see putting the time or money in a build that can't be livable in all kinds of weather and can't be hauled cross country if required. At the same time, a nice long vacation touring the country is on my bucket list. So,it needs to be battle worthy, lol.

One other thing, while it needs to be a strong build and yet light, since the trailer is a tilt, don't see why the cabin can't be built as a pod and dropped off. Driving off slowly would probably work getting it off, a winch would pull it back up on the trailer. Small skids under the floor would make that possible and lock the cabin down as a truck camper to travel.

Now, with my better statement of requirements, please let the ideas flow. I'm really interested in the tech side of the lifting top and back door, I don't mind using my arms. I just have not seen anything like this, but someone may have it.