Diving in. Need a shopping list. Soon

[kd5edj63]

I will get a start in the morning. I have settled in a varriant of the weekender design. It will have (unless Im talked out of it last minute) three quarter inch birch sides. I'll stick with the quarter inch thick roof with supports, and a half inch hatch. Help me buy the right stuff. Is birch needed for the roof and hatch. How much will I need sheet wise, and any tips on "dont forget screws and glue will be much appreciated. I'm thinking 3 sheets of three quarter, sheet of half inch and 2 sheets of quarter. Does that sound right. Plus how much and what kind of 2x5s. I have a table saw to rip with. I'm like a woman wanting a new pair of shoes and I need these heels tomorrow
I live 30 minutes from town. I hate spending more on gas than a forgotten box of screws

[Esteban]

Congratulations on starting. The fun is about to begin.

What size weekender do you plan to build? Length, width, height? Will you buy a bolt-together trailer frame, reuse one, or build one (or have one custom built)? How do you want to skin it? What kind of electrical system do you want? Will you build or buy doors? One or two doors? Do you want a camper for off-road use, or not? What else can you tell us so we can give good advice?

Here are some weekender builders:

Mike's weekender
Desert Dawg
les45 has a build journal somewhere for his weekender where he shares details. Here is his album Personal albums ‹ les45 Maybe PM him to locate his build journal.
Personal albums ‹ jje507
Personal albums ‹ Rlowell

[working on it]

I really don't know how much of what you'll need for your weekender, or if you are following any specific plan. If you've created dimensional drawings, with square footage of wood needed, and spec'd out the number and kind of fasteners to a tee, then you might be close to an estimate. From my limited trailer building experience, I'd say just get what you need for the next logical step in the process. You (and I) will learn what works and what won't. And, I've learned that building a little trailer is much the same as building a hot rod or drag car...if you make one change, expect to make four more to compensate. I lost track of how much wood of what type I've bought, and extra hardware that I never used, and bolts and screws and even the pieces I made myself (to test theories or my abilities to build>example: my failed Wiley window experiment). Fortunately, I've found other uses for the excess materials, and developed new skills and confidence to try new procedures. I recommend shopping with an open eye and mind...the possibilities of finding something better, or different, or cheaper may present themselves to you.

[kd5edj63]

Trailer is already built with a 4x9 floor. What kind of fasteners do I need. I will start by getting 3 sheets of three quarter, ons sheet of half inch and probably 2 sheets of quarter inch ply, some tight bobd glue and a few tubes of the lock tite glue.
I have checked out Les' build and will use that as a guide along with other tips. I should probably get a vent fan ordered soon so I can build to fit. I plan to make my own doors. Not sure if I want 2 doors or not

[Esteban]

If you want a Fantastic Fan (vent) Adohen Supply rvvent.com is often the best place to buy one from. They will customize the Fantastic Fan for you which other suppliers will not or can not do. Part of their customizing is to cut the trim ring to size to fit you roof/ceiling. A space 14.25" by 14.25" by the depth of your roof/ceiling will fit the fan.

That brings up are you going to build an insulated roof?

Perhaps with 1/4" plywood on top. 1-1/2" roof spars and insulation in the middle. And 1/8" inside ceiling plywood for a total thickness of 1-7/8"

Looks like you are building solid 3/4" plywood walls. It's probably best to screw and glue (lock tight is good) the walls to your floor. Maybe with 1-1/2" or longer screws. Titebond II or III is good for many uses.

If you are going to seal them with epoxy it is much easier to do with them flat on a work bench or saw horses than if they are on the side of the trailer. Raka.com is a good epoxy supplier. You can paint or varnish over the epoxy or skin it with aluminum, etc.

Most people prefer two doors so it's easier to get in or out without disturbing the other person. It's much easier to make your bed with two doors. Helps resale value too.

Les bought his doors from Frank Bear. TeardropTrailerParts.com Frank sells many other parts you will need like a hurricane hinge for the hatch.

He also sells the Progressive Dynamics PD 4045 electrical power center for both 120 volt AC and 12 volt DC that is well regarded.

etrailer.com sells a wide range of parts you may want/need. Like LED lights.

[kd5edj63]

I will probably insulate the roof. I am single so the only reason I might want 2 doors would be so I can make either side my "front yard".
I wonder if an air nailer would be better than screws, especially for installing the spars and inside pannels. Any input on that welcome

[Esteban]

I used a 1/4" narrow crown air stapler. You can buy reconditioned ones for less than new. My narrow crown stapler is a Milwaukee and seems not to be available any more. I really like it. Fast, fun, secure. Greatly reduces clamping and glue set up time. Leaves little dimples that need to be filled which was OK for fiberglassing or if covered by something else. They work well with 1/4 plywood. OK with 1/8" ply I covered up.

Hitachi N3804AB3 1-1/2" Narrow Crown Stapler (Reconditioned) a good tool to attach your 1/4" roof plywood to the spars.



23 gauge pin nailers are good if you want to "hide" the pins in wood that will be varnished or painted. Harbor Freight sells one that is OK so I have read. LumberJocks.com has good tool reviews for tools you may consider buying.

The pin nailer I would like to have is a Hitachi NP35A 1-3/8" 23 Gauge Micro Pinner (Reconditioned)



Hitachi NT50AE2 2" 18-Gauge Brad Nailer (Reconditioned)



CPO Outlets is another reconditioned tool source cpooutlets.com

edited to add a Harbor Freight brad nailer/stapler that looks ok in this YouTube "18 Gauge 2-in-1 Nailer/Stapler Central Pneumatic - item#68019"

[kd5edj63]

Thanks for the videos. I have my wood as described above. What glue and fasteners to get the walls mounted to the floor. I found a gun at home depot on sale that will use half inch up to 1.5 inch staples. Is that an ideal gun for this build. I dont want to buy 2 guns. I believe it is 18 gage.
I got the glue also. I need to know what glue is for what.

Edit. I need to get that 2 in one. Thats a steal. What is the difference between a staple and a brad nail. or other nails.

[working on it]

About using a staple gun...I used one to hold the center bulkhead in place while bolting and gluing it in permanently. The dimples left over were covered up later when I polyurethaned the walls (2x) and painted (2x) them. A year later the poly and paint had cured/shrunk in to uncover them again. So I filled them in (with "filler" this time), and painted over them. Take care to not skip that step! And the difference between a staple and a brad is that the brad is like a little nail, a single post, whereas a staple has two, with a crosspiece ... like a goal post or horseshoe.

[Esteban]

Harbor Freight's 18-gauge-2-in-1-nailerstapler-68019 is now $21.99 on sale. With a discount coupon it may be 20-25% less. Just search for harbor freight coupon code. 65149244 is good till the end of October, 2013. $16.49 after coupon. Shipping is $6.99.

Staples have more clamping force to hold a (plywood) surface down tight than brads. The heads of brads can sometimes pull out, or get set too deep, through thin plywood. Do some testing to see for yourself.

Consider either staples or brads to be like clamps to hold pieces together until the glue sets.

Their 23 Gauge Pin Nailer Central Pneumatic - item#68022 is $24.99 23 Gauge Pin Nailer Central Pneumatic - item#68022 HF pins are not very good from what I've read. Grex pins are very good and Amazon.com sells them. Pins are nice for finish work like cabinetry. With your solid plywood walls it may not matter to you as much. You could use them to help hold the ceiling plywood in place while glue sets up and they would be nearly invisible once you varnish...unlike a staple or a brad.

My HF shopping cart shows a price of $40.73 for both (it discounted the pin nailer). That would be a very handy pair of air tools.

[kd5edj63]

Thanks guys. Fantastic info. I would have never thought to ger a stapler like that in most instances. This site has been a blessing. I will be getting the HF 2 in 1 in the morning. I dont so much need a pin nailer. Im not that picky so if I see a small dimple in some trim from a larger nail, I will still sleep fine
I have made saw dust. What glue should I use to secure the side walls to the floor. the Tight bond or the Lock tight. I have both. I used TB to "graft" the 3-4" ply together.

[Esteban]

Titebond is my suggestion so the biscuits expand a little with moisture to "lock" together the plywood joint and you can wipe off the squeeze out excess easily with a damp rag.

The tube stuff is messy and much harder to clean up.

Do you have some pipe clamps?
Harbor Freight has a pocket hole jig functionally similar to the kreg that is reasonable. portable-pocket-hole-jig-kit-96264 There is a video at the link It can sometimes substitute for pipe clamps.

You can use pocket hole screws in between the biscuits to clamp and align the plywood as you glue the sheets together. The best of both worlds.

Nice shop you have to work in. The paint on Harbor Freight trailers will fade to pink. If you are ever going to paint it do it before attaching the floor to make it easier. It's good to use wax paper under the glue joint so you don't glue the plywood to your workbench/table.

[kd5edj63]

I have bar clamps, not pipe. Only 4 feet long so I might need longer clamps if they have them. Do you recommend using the tube stuff to glue stape and screw the walls to the floor. I wa not going to use biscuts for that. I could, but that was not the plan.

[working on it]

I have bar clamps, not pipe. Only 4 feet long so I might need longer clamps if they have them. Do you recommend using the tube stuff to glue stape and screw the walls to the floor. I wa not going to use biscuts for that. I could, but that was not the plan.

I you're going to Harbor Freight for the 2 in 1 stapler, and you also need pipe clamps, I suggest these to start http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-pipe-clamp-with-base-94053.html. Then get 3/4" pipe to make the clamps functional. And when you're through using them, you can use them for trailer stabilizers., like mine: . I have tested their strength by lifting the trailer (at about 1000 lbs, before completion at 1280-empty) to rest on the stabilizers and tongue jack. I left it raised all night in the garage, and it did not slip (each clamp is rated at 600lbs force). So, I was confident on their ability to hold the trailer steady when used in camp. I did a two night camping trip recently, and they held the trailer very stable (and I move around a lot inside, never felt a wiggle). Easy to deploy, just by releasing the tab. They slide back up the same way. Here's how to build them: Use the right side part only (the part without the handle), save the rest for future use? Get 3/4" diameter threaded iron pipe, end caps, and round feet (stanchions?). I used 30" long pieces. Use 1/4" bolts (and washers, and locknuts) to fit thru already drilled holes in clamps (refer to gallery photos of my trailer); grade 2 will be strong enough, I would've preferred grade 5 or 8, but didn't find any long enough. Use clamp to mark spots to drill 2 holes thru trailer frame, drill , then test fit clamp piece to determine length of bolts needed. On workbench, insert pipe thru clamp, loctite on cap and feet. Drill a hole thru pipe in raised position to insert locking pin to hold up for travel. Take assembly and mount to trailer. When you lift up on clamp release, the pipes will slide down to the ground, and when you let go of the release, you won't be able to raise the pipe. To raise the pipe, use the release and lift the pipe to travelling position. Insert the safety pin. There you go!

[Esteban]

I used the tube stuff to glue my walls to the floor. Used screws and a few air driven brads. The thick glue will ooze out so i used blue painters tape to protect the cabin floor inside and the bottom of the walls inside. I had varnished my walls inside before attaching the walls because it's easier to do when they are flat on a work bench or on the trailer frame using it like a work bench. I also fiberglassed and sanded smooth (faired) the walls outside before attaching them to the floor...so they were nearly ready for paint.

I looks like you are gluing two sections of plywood together to "stretch" it longer, so to speak. When you glue them together they need to be snug enough for good glue contact. I've seen someone put some screws into the edges of each piece of the plywood for something to clamp to. Looked at your photo again. It looks like your stretching/grafting is done.

If I were you, I'm not and do not know your plans or goals, I'd do as much prep work as possible to your walls before attaching them permanently to the floor. Like rolling epoxy on the outside. Fiberglass taping the plywood joint, OR fiberglassing the entire outside surface. Sand it as smooth as you want it.

I would also do as much finishing on the inside of the walls as I could. Taping off areas where a wood inside door seal might go of where cabinet frames, the bulkhead, etc. may be glued to the inside.

Then do a dry fit of the walls to the floor.

You have not shared many details (almost none I can see) of your plan. There are many many ways to do things. For instance how are you going to provide a surface for door seals to seal against? Your plans for your doors and the door seals are very important to have thought out, planned ahead, to work well.

How are you going to skin the roof? Aluminum? Paint/epoxy/plywood?

How are you going to seal and or trim the edge of the roof to the walls? Aluminum trim? Fiberglass tape? Something else?