I am wanting to build a boon docking camper .... and I have been contemplating heating
Big help on the A/C! I’m still reading the thread from Shadow Catcher!Tom&Shelly wrote:I believe you are right about needing shore power (110 vac) for air conditioning. Several folks on this forum (years ago) did the calculation. If you are camping in the dry southwest, there are several options for building swamp coolers out there that allegedly would work on a reasonable amount of battery power.
When we realized we would be traveling through the hot and humid mid-west in the summertime, we decided to either modify a home AC unit, as described by Shadow Catcher https://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=44561#p835690, or buy a Cimaterite. The time vs money trade dictated the latter for us, as we were busy building the teardrop at the time. (If I did it now, I'd go the other way. I'd look for a good deal for an AC unit, at the end of the season, or thrift store find.) Not sure if Cimaterite is still in business; they evidently weren't great about honoring their warranty. I used that as an excuse to open it up and see how it works, ready to make modifications as we saw fit. In the event, they had a wired remote option that we used, but I modified how the wiring came out of the box.
We didn't buy it for the heater, but the Cimaterite has one, just an electric heater for use with shore power. We've used it in Fall, at temps down to a little below freezing, and it works great for us. But if we had built our teardrop for Winter camping, and wanted the flexibility of camping away from shore power, we'd have probably gone with the Propex heater, or something similar.
Tom
Now there’s a thought! Thank you for the recommendations! I do plan to install a 20 gallon water tank on the camper.John61CT wrote:Just as with aircon, electric heat is only practical from shore power, or maybe (yuk) a genset.
The parking heaters that burn gasoline or diesel/kerosene work very well, most are way overkill
and running at low duty cycle increases maintenance overhead.
Not simplest but maybe best efficiency, heat an insulated water tank, then a thermostat controls small pump to circulate into the living space, floor embedded pipe or air exchange / radiator / calorifier.
AKA hydronics.
That’s a really nice install. I’ve been looking into those quite a bit. Seems like it’s not the cheapest route, but the no-brainer, one and done, we have heat option.tony.latham wrote:I am wanting to build a boon docking camper .... and I have been contemplating heating
Take a look at my Propex heater installation here:
https://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=72075&p=1271153&hilit=propex+heater+installation#p1271153
They are a great heater. Just make sure you are sitting down when you price 'em. We use ours a lot more than I thought we would. (And we'll never have another tear without one.)
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I can't help you with the AC issue.
Tony
Seems like it’s not the cheapest route...
lfhoward wrote:I want to add my plug for the Propex heater also. It does exactly what I want it to, making dry heat on a thermostat, without using a lot of propane or electricity. Also, it doesn’t require periodic disassembly and cleaning of soot, like a diesel heater does.
I’ve been pouring over your thread on the ac unit you built. Seems your design is at the top of our list for cooling!
Very nice setup!dbhosttexas wrote:Just FWIW, I run a 5000 BTU GE mechanical window unit AC with a 1KW Sportsman generator no problem at all in regular mode. Eco mode not so happy. If you want to do it on 12V, you are going to need a LOT of solar to run it, but it can be done.
https://youtu.be/ak_Trm-Pbyw
Heating is done with a simple Coleman heater and partially open windows while awake, and a warm wife under the sleeping bag while sleeping...
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