1982 1500 Play-Mor questions

General Discussion about almost anything Teardrop or camping related

Postby frank_a » Wed Jun 08, 2011 8:24 am

Hmmmm. Yes, bearings are in two parts, but one part should be an interference fit in the hub (called the "cup"). Generally the part that falls out is the one with roller bearings in it, and is called the "cone." Pics would certainly help!
Tiny travel trailer - 1979 Sunline Sunspot. Tow vehicles: 2008 Subaru AWD Outback, 2009 GMC 4WD Canyon. For fun: 1923 T bucket hot rod, 1962 Power Cat tunnel hull speed boat. 1974 Dodge Dart waiting for renovation.
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Postby papmom35 » Wed Jun 08, 2011 8:28 am

Whoo hoo!! I did it! I did it!! Ok, the number is in case you can't make it out: Tyson L44649

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Postby papmom35 » Wed Jun 08, 2011 8:30 am

I thought bearings were round like silver marbles? At least that is what fell out of one of my cars when the CV joint broke!! :lol: My 5 year old nephew was with me at the time and after I parked the car having heard a horrendous noise, he got to the back first and said "Auntie, look! You lost your marbles!!" I swear to god this is true!!
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Postby frank_a » Wed Jun 08, 2011 8:35 am

That is a 1 1/16" bearing Pam. I bet the bearing surface is larger where the inner bearing rides? Easy to tell usually just visually. Is the rear of the axle stub the hub rides on the same diameter as where the outer bearing rides?

If you can't tell, take that big screwdriver and pop the seal ou7t of the back of the hub and see if the bearing is the same number or different. If it's different, let me know. I'm figuring it's either the same, or 1 3/8". I can't tell by looking at the pics.

The plate with 4 holes behind the hub is where the backing plate for brakes mount. Are those holes all equidistant, and if so, what is the measurement?
Tiny travel trailer - 1979 Sunline Sunspot. Tow vehicles: 2008 Subaru AWD Outback, 2009 GMC 4WD Canyon. For fun: 1923 T bucket hot rod, 1962 Power Cat tunnel hull speed boat. 1974 Dodge Dart waiting for renovation.
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Postby frank_a » Wed Jun 08, 2011 8:45 am

papmom35 wrote:I thought bearings were round like silver marbles? At least that is what fell out of one of my cars when the CV joint broke!! :lol: My 5 year old nephew was with me at the time and after I parked the car having heard a horrendous noise, he got to the back first and said "Auntie, look! You lost your marbles!!" I swear to god this is true!!


Bearings come in all sorts of shapes and sizes Pam, byut axle and hyub bearings genberally look like what came out of yours. L44649 is a very popular bearing size, and is what was on my Sunspot. This is the kit I got to rebuild the hubs: http://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Hub-Beari ... B0000AYCN3

If both your bearings are 1 1/16, that kit is what you would need to rebuild the hubs. There would be another readily available kit if the rear bearing is larger. Also, modern hub/drums would be available to install on that axle no matter what size the rear bearing is. If both are 1 1/6", this hub would work: http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hubs-an ... 16UC3.html

There are plenty of choices.
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Postby papmom35 » Wed Jun 08, 2011 8:46 am

OK, BRB
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Postby papmom35 » Wed Jun 08, 2011 9:02 am

Ok that rubber seal/gasket is NOT coming out and I broke part of it. Should I contine trying to get it out and is it easily replaceable or is that a mute point if I get the kit? Do I still need a new axle or just the new hub/drums and brake assemblies?
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Postby papmom35 » Wed Jun 08, 2011 9:06 am

Holes are equidistant: 3 3/8" from outside edge to outside edge horizontally and vertically.
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Postby frank_a » Wed Jun 08, 2011 9:15 am

It's very unusual to get a seal out without damaging it. That is why they always come with a hub rebuilding kit. Even if I have one that comes out easy (very rare), I replace it with new. Bottom line is there is no other way to get the inner bearing out.

If you look in the hub at the surface these bearings ride, that is the cup. The bearings are really two part, cup and cone. The part that falls out is the cone. The part that stays in is called the cup (or race by some folks). If you can catch your fingernail on any markings on the cups, they need to be replaced.

Seems to me I posted this video a while back for you. The guy does things a bit different from the way I was taught, but he knows what he's doing.

http://www.youtube.com/user/etrailertv? ... iler%20hub

It's good to get this experience Pam, but it it was me (and it will be later this year), I'd just get a new axle with the brake stuff installed, weld on new spring seats and be done with it. Then you can get readily available wheels for it too, standard stuff, not weird. Of course, seeing I couldn't (and can't) afford that right away, I rebuilt my hubs. Brakes will come later.

Frank
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Postby papmom35 » Wed Jun 08, 2011 9:32 am

Wow! That video is cool! Sorry I didn't see it earlier or see that you posted it. Well, I was trying to get the wrong part of the seal out so I'll bo back out there and try again. It would be nice to have the kind of work shop he does :) I'm doing this on my side lawn. I'll have to get some lube stuff from the auto store when I'm ready to repack the bearings?
Now at least I know what that means!! :thumbsup:

So, if I decide to splurge and get the new axle with brakes installed, AND new wheels, will the wheels come with the hub, drum and bearings? I just don't want to buy duplicates. Since I'm destroying the seal right now, should I order the $10 kit to replace that those bearings I took out so that I can get the whole rig down to the RV place for axle install? Or should I just stop where I'm at even with part of the rubber gasket broken and reassemble?

I think I want to splurge so like you said I'm done with it, it's done right and I don't have to worry. At least I now know how to repack and grease bearings.
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Postby papmom35 » Wed Jun 08, 2011 9:40 am

OK, I just found your link for the wheels and the axle. The wheels do not come with the hub and drum. I can't tell if the axle does or not. It says somthing about a Hub face.
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Postby frank_a » Wed Jun 08, 2011 9:42 am

How far is the rv place? If it's not far, leave the seal alone (or just get a new seal, but to do that you need to remove it so you can bring it to an auto parts and get the correct one), throw some grease in it and haul it on down.

Wheels will be separate. That axle I suggested comes with all the electric brake stuff you need on an axle. It still requires spring seats to be tack welded on, and wiring to a controller in whatever you end up with for a TV.
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Postby frank_a » Wed Jun 08, 2011 9:44 am

papmom35 wrote:OK, I just found your link for the wheels and the axle. The wheels do not come with the hub and drum. I can't tell if the axle does or not. It says somthing about a Hub face.


The axle comes complete except spring seats need to be tack welded on. Wheels are separate. What else?
Tiny travel trailer - 1979 Sunline Sunspot. Tow vehicles: 2008 Subaru AWD Outback, 2009 GMC 4WD Canyon. For fun: 1923 T bucket hot rod, 1962 Power Cat tunnel hull speed boat. 1974 Dodge Dart waiting for renovation.
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Postby papmom35 » Wed Jun 08, 2011 9:57 am

That's it for now!! I'm going to repack the outer bearing and put it back in after I run down for some grease (and special soap and rags LOL!!). The RV place is less than 5 miles away. I'm going down there today to ask them if they will do the install and I'll also ask them if I should order the parts or if they will get them cheaper. I'll also ask my friend if her son would be willing to do the install if I get the parts. He's about 30 min away. The seal didn't break, just a small piece of the rubber gasket so I hope it will be OK if he does the install and has to tow it to his shop.

Thank you Frank! This has been quite an education and very exciting!! I found some more videos on Etrailer that I'll be watching.

I can't tell you how much I appreciate all your help! I'd like to send you a card so if you would PM me your address that would be super.

Off to get cleaned up!!
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Postby frank_a » Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:15 am

You should be fine for 5 miles Pam. They probably would want to make some profit on the parts, so it would probably not be cheaper. Then again, for their professional help, it would get done right, or at least that's the general idea.

If you have a friend do it, just make sure you very carefully measure your axle per whatever dimensions the seller needs. You don't want them to send you an axle that ends up an inch off, as it can't be returned once ordered.

Good luck!

Frank
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