Harbor Freight trailer bearing seal question

[jgrote]

While putting together my trailer, I noticed that my seals were horribly installed. I called HF and explained the problem to a very kind CSR, who then (after LOTS of info given and being put on hold more than a few times) put some new ones in the mail for me. I believe I'm even getting the 4 pack! BTW, I confirmed that the sku# given on page one is correct, along with the price. However, I'm getting mine for FREE! And now I can pack the bearings with good grease too.

As for a lot of the back/forth on metric seals and so on here. Auto parts stores carry metric seals. Every foreign car, and all cars now for that matter, are metric. The issue at the parts stores have taken away the old books from national seal and the others. It is almost impossible for the parts guys/girls to find anything weird anymore. The bearing stores still have the sizing and cross reference books. If anyone ever gets a good seal and bearing #, PLEASE POST THEM HERE. Any of the big name brands should be able to be cross referenced at your local store. When I get my new seals I will see if I can pull any #'s off them and find good cross reference #s.

[Mary C]

jgrote, Please wash out the goo, it is the shipping goo they put in the bearings for shipping, I used paint thinner and if you go to my pictures you can see the junque I washed out of the bearings. I couldn't get the back seal out so I used a syringe to wash the back ones out. Just trying to be helpful.

Mary C.

[jgrote]

Mary,
I looked at what they call bearing grease and was unimpressed. I will pull all four bearings and repack them with real bearing grease. I have a gallon pale of carb cleaner that I use to clean out bearings. Put them in and let them soak for a few hours, and they com out clean as a whistle. I've been toying with cars for a long time, so I'm quite adept at packing bearings. I don't think I'll have the parts by this weekend, so it may have to wait till next weekend.

[Mary C]

Great , I never know the experience of the new person but it doesn't hurt to let them know that the shipping stuff (goo) is not grease. Know that there have been a couple that thought it was and stated his came with grease. It is amazing how much I have learned. after reading almost the whole forum I couldn't find it but it was stated that if you can afford it to replace the corner bolts with non metric grade 8. Be sure to use locking nuts. I never could find the post when I was looking to put mine together.

Mary C.

[d120]

the general rule with bearings is not to wash them out with petroleum distillates ,but to force the old grease out,using the new grease.

[KennethW]

If you read the instructions it says to wash any dirt out of the bearing and grease the bearings,.

[Mary C]

d120, My suggestion is to read a lot on here about the particular bearings that are shipped with the trailer. I have and it is the recommended practice to use paint thinner, turpentine or any carb cleaner or even gas because it is a type of shipping goo that wont come off with water or other water based cleaners. I called the company to check and it is the direction of the Harbor freight company to use one of the above cleaners . This was completely discussed in the forum , that is why I will continue to state that I suggest you read the forum and really digest the reasons why things are stated here. There are lots and lots of very well versed people here and a lot of finding out the hard way. So Just saying.......

Mary C.

[Toytaco2]

I haven't visited the board in a while, but, I'm always amazed at how the same questions keep popping up again and again. Seems like some people are able to find any thing or part they need in the middle of nowhere at any time. I've never been able to do that and I guarantee you that the HF seals were a huge PIA for me to locate in my area. In fact I posted my experience/findings several years ago and someone might still find them helpful. So, here's the link http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=30022&highlight=. Hope it helps.

Mike

[jgrote]

I haven't visited the board in a while, but, I'm always amazed at how the same questions keep popping up again and again. Seems like some people are able to find any thing or part they need in the middle of nowhere at any time. I've never been able to do that and I guarantee you that the HF seals were a huge PIA for me to locate in my area. In fact I posted my experience/findings several years ago and someone might still find them helpful. So, here's the link http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=30022&highlight=. Hope it helps.

Mike

You are correct; this is going to be a common question here. That is why I revived an old thread instead of starting a new one. However, I have not found a good universally accepted # for either the bearing or the seal. My goal is to find a good National, NTN, or other such #. That way, any parts person at any parts house will be able to find what you need. Your # (30205) seams to be the correct # for bearing, but your # (692373) doesn't cross over to anything but that mfg's seal. I am still on a quest for a # that will work anywhere.

[d120]

I would strongly suggest that you dont use any water bassed cleaners on Chinese bearings or domesticaly produced bearings,either.also I dont take direction from harbor freight company.another point is do not "dry off"bearings with compressed air,a "cleaned"bearing with no lubrication could do physical injury if spun

[bobhenry]

the general rule with bearings is not to wash them out with petroleum distillates ,but to force the old grease out,using the new grease.

Spalling is the delamination of the hardened surface from the parent metal. You might think of it like dandruff flakes.

Scoring is hardened particulates that literally cut into the finely polished surface and leave little lines where the metal was plowed out.

These are the 2 things that any automotive tech is trained to look for when repacking bearings. If either exist replace the bearings and matched races.

There conditions are sometimes difficult to see even when the bearing has been properly cleaned and air dried and I would say that they would be all but impossible to see under a grease film residue. So clean them with solvent but be certain they are dry before repacking them as the solvent will degrade the new grease. A fast flash solvent like hexane or acetone is prefered. ("Brakekleen" from the parts store is a great choice)

For military specification testing of greases we were required to give all test coupon bearings a hexane rinse and air dry for 1 hour before placing then in the equipment for a grease failure test. This removed any body oils and possible contaminates that might alter the test results.

[d120]

Well put,the therory behind my process is that ALL petrolium distillate products leave behind particulates/abrasives,even acetone and"brake kleeners",once in the bearing are imposible to remove.If they are to be used again,Use a bearing press,and press the new grease into the bearing,while the old grease is being pressed out,simultaneously. if a bearing gets to the point where it needs to have a visual inspection,it could very well be shot anyway and need replacement. They should be checked visualy for spalling ,blueing, visual imperfections. Grit,contaminates,loose cages,etc.

[d120]

cosmoline is a product used to protect machine parts ie; bearings,guns,etc. used extensivley by the military.it is now being replaced by vacuum packed PET film.it is an oily & waxy long chain non-polar hydrocarbon presertive. not a lubricant,although it is simular to petroleum jelly.cosmoline has a melting point of 113-125 degrees most H.T.greases melt at @ 500 degrees.cosmoline can be very diffucult to remove from mechanical equipment,it is suggested that the bearing be boiled and left to air dry before regreasing,I personaly dont like water and bearings to touch eachother, but thats what wiki says