Got a New Tool

[Treeview]

There are three dimensions on saw chain.

The distance between tips of the drive links divided by two. I think this is the 3/8" that you're reading.

There is the thickness of the drive link which corresponds to the rail slot on the bar. Generally, .050 or in that range.

Then there is the dimension of the cutting edge. This is the one that you size the file too.

If you can't decipher which number you're looking for you can add whatever info you find in the owner's manual. Most of the time the info is stamped on the side of the bar too.

[bdosborn]

I found the info in the owners manual:



I'll probably get the Stihl sharpening kit.

Bruce

[Treeview]

What model is your new saw?

Look on the end of the bar near the mounts. You should see the chain specs and drive link count stamped on the bar.

It doesn't look big enough to use 3/8 chain, but maybe so.

The Stihl kit is ok...the Pferd kit is way better, suit yourself.

[bdosborn]

What model is your new saw?

Its a MS391

Bruce

[Treeview]

I read up on the chain and saw on the Stihl site.

Read this thread too:

http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=56838.0

13/64" file will work.

Do you wear leg protection...chaps or pants?
Helmet, ear/eye pro?

Tom

[bdosborn]

Do you wear leg protection...chaps or pants?
Helmet, ear/eye pro?

I've got everything but the chaps.

Bruce

[bdosborn]

The Stihl kit is ok...the Pferd kit is way better, suit yourself.

Okay you talked me into it, a ChainSharp CS-X 13/64 is on the way to the house.
Thanks,
Bruce

[Bogo]

For general clearing work I like Stihl's thin chain saws. They have a narrower bar and chain so they take less power to make a cut. Makes for a lighter saw that is easier to handle. I also have a big bruiser that I inherited from grandpa. It has a 36" bar and is now well over 40 years old. In '80 he said he hadn't used it in over a decade. At that point he'd gone to using a small one for nearly everything. I forget the model numbers. They just work. That's what is important to me.

[jstrubberg]

A file and a way to hold the saw is all you really need to sharpen a chain. Use the existing bevel to set your angle, don't use a lot of pressure, take your time and double check to make sure you didn't skip any teeth.

Not a whole lot more to it than that. Here's a pretty good YouTube video. I do all the right-facing teeth, then turn the saw around and do the left-facing ones because I have lousy control with my left hand.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QZlqcjgh6Fs

[Bogo]

I cut a block of wood I use to align the sharpening bit. I then can do the teeth quite quickly with the chain on the chainsaw. My chainsaw tooth sharpener supposedly has a foot that the angle can be set with, but it doesn't articulate enough.

[rebapuck]

Is that for getting the tear out of the garage when you've overbuilt?

[bdosborn]

Is that for getting the tear out of the garage when you've overbuilt?

No its for the bears when we camp up in Wyoming in Slows neighborhood....

Bruce

[Bogo]

Is that for getting the tear out of the garage when you've overbuilt?

No its for the bears when we camp up in Wyoming in Slows neighborhood....

Bruce

It should help cutting trees to make a stockade out of.

[bdosborn]

The sharpener worked great! Thanks for the recommendation:



Bruce

[asianflava]

Saw this video and thought about this thread.
http://youtu.be/6vroaQjGCkc