Seconds from Disaster

[Bogo]

Controlled cold bending. Don't heat it as it is likely made out of heat treated steel.

[KCStudly]

Controlled cold bending. Don't heat it as it is likely made out of heat treated steel.

Not sure about the heat treated steel part, but the controlled cold bending means a big industrial press. Most metal fabrication shops should be able to perform this task.

Might be better off selling the cambered axle and buying one without camber. However, if you are running trailer tires I doubt they will wear any differently w/ camber. Most trailer tires have a crowned tread with less contact patch than car tires (easy turning and less rolling resistance with higher inflation pressures).

Try it out for a while and see if you develop any uneven wear patterns. If not, I'd leave it be. $.02

[driftwood]

Thx, what type of shop would I approach about doing this type of bending?

[KCStudly]

Found this on a quick yellowpage search "Welding Shops Springville AL"
http://www.apelmachine.com/services.html Click the "In House" tab for their capabilities. The "DIY" paragraph implies that they will take little guy walk in customers. Click the "Steel Fabrication" tab for more.

That's just one option, there are more:
google search

[Bogo]

I really wouldn't worry about it. A cambered axle will be more stable towing. The only reason to use a straight one is for a slight increase in towing efficiency. If you want straight, then I'd buy a straight one. Even with well controlled cold bending it is possible to bend it wrong. The other thing is the current camber is likely provided by controlled angle on the axle stubs when they were welded to the main shaft of the axle. Bending would then be inadvisable because you are bending a straight shaft. If the main shaft of the axle is curved, then cold bending could be done. When bent, it may not stay bent, or it may bend to far. Also it will be weaker after the bending.

[Wolffarmer]

Shoot, don't over think the problems. Just taxes your brain and for very little gain. Put new ball on and tight it up as best you can with what you have. If it makes you feel better use a bit of Locktite on it. Doesn't really matter which one both will do the job, really. The high strength one will probably need to be heated up to remove if you ever wish to. ( actually no probable, it will need to be heated ) But most important. TAKE THE WRENCH WITH YOU AND OCCASIONALLY USE IT. Also if there is a split lock washer on it those can be over tightened and break and guess what. Your bolt is now lose, very very lose. If you use locktite you don't really need a lock washer. On my 1981 Datsun Pickup I put an extra leaf in the rear springs years ago. No new longer u bolts to be had to fit it so I just tossed the lock washers and used Locktite. That was almost 200,000 miles ago and many many times over loaded. I decided to stop worrying about it. No need to replace the receiver or the coupler, They did their jobs. Your clearance light problem may not even be related to this. Yeah, get a better set up for the chains.

Randy