New 10th Anniversary Teardrop design!

[Wolffarmer]

Make the AC as an optional "kit/module" Not all want/need one.

[working on it]

Question for you guys... since I hearing some of you say, keep it simple...

Should this 10th Anniversary design have a built in Air Conditioner? And if so, where should it be?

Mike...

This should be predictable, coming from me, given my extended postings about A/C build problems: yes, 5000 BTU window-mount type unit, inside galley bulkhead mounted, permanent. I know I am on the fringe here, but since the A/C units most can use in smaller trailers are the 5000 BTU windowshakers (not "shakers" if they're firmly, permanently, mounted), then that's my choice. I had efficiency problems with my system for awhile, because I was trying something quite different, but in a more mainstream design, that should not occur. The typical 5K BTU unit (with mounting hardware, framing, etc) shouldn't weigh more than 50 lbs - a manageable weight addition for any trailer. Especially if mounted in the bulkhead dividing cabin and galley. Many have that bulkhead just about over the axle centerline, where the 50lbs would be in a neutral balance situation. Mine was aft of that, because my axle is a bit forward of normal. The hot air exhaust could be routed up and out the roof (using an RV refrigerator vent or screened roof vent, or similar) or even out the side (dryer vent or screened roof vent, again), provided that no 90 degree bends in the outlet impede exhaust flow (my error in my trailer A/C design). And the exhaust has to be prevented from crossflow into the chassis louvers, or into the cabin intake (that's why it's mounted into the bulkhead). The cabin side intake needs to be separated from the cabin side output, for greater efficiency (I did this by directing the output flow straight out along the ceiling, with a "floor" vent flow director). My A/C is mounted up high, just below the ceiling, since I didn't want the cold air output directly over my head or feet, or the intake being possibly blocked by pillows or covers. Others on this forum have other solutions; these are just suggestions that I make, based on my limited experience using my system, and what I might do next build.

[mikeschn]

I've done air conditioning several ways...

1) in the galley, with the ac at the foot of the bed. It didn't work well until I opened up the air flow around it. And of course I have to leave the hatch open to run it.


2) on the shelf of the cabin, vented out the side. This worked the best! Maybe I need to put this arrangement on the floor of the galley.


3) Popped it out the side. This worked pretty good too, but there's really not enough room in a TD to do this.


4) Tried a top only vent, but it didn't work well. Added a side vent, and it worked as good as #2


5)Tried a roof mounted AC. Worked well, but very noisy.


6) Pulled off the top mount and put it in the front. It worked well, but it leaked everytime I drove in the rain.


7) Tried a rear vented mount up high. It worked well, but it was noisy because I slept under it. It was also hard to keep the drain clear.


8 ) Tried a rear vented mount, similar to the side vented mount (#3). It should have worked good, but putting it in a box tampered with the thermostat, and it never cooled right. Cutting the box away improved the cooling, but I am still working on this one.


In addition I am thinking about the way Rayvillian did it, mounted on the tongue, with a duct feeding the cool air up into the cabin.


Which way sounds best to you guys?

Mike...

[Junkboy999]

I know my small AC unit the fan runs all the time to keep the air moving. In my room it was about 4 foot away from my head. I not sure I’d like the ac over my head while sleeping in a TD + the AC blowing in the face dries out my eyes and nose.

Wonder if you can make an outside mount on the side behind the access door but in front of the back cabinets work.

[Junkboy999]

Hey Mike
Is Junkboy999's Ever Expanding Box to much of a build for this.

[mikeschn]

Too much? I think so!!!

Mike...

Hey Mike
Is Junkboy999's Ever Expanding Box to much of a build for this.

[KCStudly]

One thing many first time builders are looking for is a 5x8 that will slide into an existing side rail utility, so that they can camp when they want and still use the utility the rest of the time.

There are some pretty basic/simple building designs for rear entries that are "slouchable" or even "standable". GPW did a sketch for Eagle (with some other detailed sketches of the wall joinery for an insulated build... yes, it was to be a foamie, but could easily be designed as a hybrid or traditional style of construction). Another great rear entry to draw inspiration from would be Len's Over The Wheel RT; great shoe storage and swoopy side skirts to enhance the profile.

I would lean toward long wise sleeping bunks on either side for ease of getting in and out of either bunk (hunting buddy cabin style) futon style that convert into couches (ala cabin car with dinette table optional). Lengthwise queen bed or side to side bed options could be used and would have seating at the back of the bed for dressing (like Len's).

For aero, the front bed area could be sloped down lower in the front than the full rear height, or just curved like a Benroy.

Build out over the wheels and slightly over the tongue and there should be tons of room for storage under the bed/couches, with room for a small pantry/cooking gear/cooler at the rear. I can see a water jug sitting on the counter spin it to the rear with a small cargo hatch and you have water access outside, or spin it to the edge of the counter for a drink inside. Optional AC done the same way in the back wall; cargo hatch with slide out, or semi-permanent thru wall mounted.

Options could include built in aids for removing and reinstalling on the trailer (for those that do not have other means to do this ...most households do not come equipped with fork trucks and/or gantry cranes), but I would try to promote something with minimal visual impact, such as removable or hidden jack legs.

For more permanent builds, an optional foot well for standing room at the back, and external storage in front of and behind the fenders (this could also be done on a lift off design).

The idea is to build around the existing trailer side rails so that little to no metal work would have to be done to the trailer, preserving its function as a ute.

I know a dual purpose trailer seldom works out as practically as people would hope, but a lot of people want it to. This could also tie into the pod concept as a drop and go camp set up; portable tiny house.

[GPW]

For a fixed cabin trailer , the most practical thing we could ever come up with looks like an upside down boat (Zephyr) Simple to build no matter how or what you build it with .. Roomy enough for camping , but not too tall .. and make it as wide as you want ...

[GPW]

... and that’s just the basic shape which you can add other things to ...

[working on it]

One thing many first time builders are looking for is a 5x8 that will slide into an existing side rail utility, so that they can camp when they want and still use the utility the rest of the time.

There are some pretty basic/simple building designs for rear entries that are "slouchable" or even "standable". (GPW did a sketch for Eagle (with some other detailed sketches of the wall joinery for an insulated build... yes, it was to be a foamie, but could easily be designed as a hybrid or traditional style of construction). Another great rear entry to draw inspiration from would be Len's Over The Wheel RT; great shoe storage and swoopy side skirts to enhance the profile.

I would lean toward long wise sleeping bunks on either side for ease of getting in and out of either bunk (hunting buddy cabin style) futon style that convert into couches (ala cabin car with dinette table optional). Lengthwise queen bed or side to side bed options could be used and would have seating at the back of the bed for dressing (like Len's).

For aero, the front bed area could be slopped down lower in the front than the full rear height, or just curved like a Benroy.

Build out over the wheels and slightly over the tongue and there should be tons of room for storage under the bed/couches, with room for a small pantry/cooking gear/cooler at the rear. I can see a water jug sitting on the counter spin it to the rear with a small cargo hatch and you have water access outside, or spin it to the edge of the counter for a drink inside. Optional AC done the same way in the back wall; cargo hatch with slide out, or semi-permanent thru wall mounted.

Options could include built in aids for removing and reinstalling on the trailer (for those that do not have other means to do this ...most households do not come equipped with fork trucks and/or gantry cranes), but I would try to promote something with minimal visual impact, such as removable or hidden jack legs.

For more permanent builds, an optional foot well for standing room at the back, and external storage in front of and behind the fenders (this could also be done on a lift off design).

The idea is to build around the existing trailer side rails so that little to no metal work would have to be done to the trailer, preserving its function as a ute.

I know a dual purpose trailer seldom works out as practically as people would hope, but a lot of people want it to. This could also tie into the pod concept as a drop and go camp set up; portable tiny house.

Kc is on to a prevailing change going on in this forum, mainly upsizing and added utility, not to mention accessibility. Here's a couple of quotes from another thread today:

Sharon H said : It looks like there are about twice as many tiny stand-up trailers as there are teardrops.
Would you like to speculate on why this trend seems to be happening? Emiller replied: Sharon, I think some of us are getting older and some just get tired of fighting the elements. Teardrops are great to travel in and some are hard core campers. I think a few of us loved doing the teardrop thing, but figured out it (is) just not for us. Some just have one of each and brings out the the trailer for the occasion.

I was also interested in a dual-purpose trailer prior to my build, and stated so several times, and incorporated some features to make it so, in a very limited way (too many non-removable, camping related items built-in), but it is 99% a dedicated camper now. I've seen that, like Emiller said in the above quote, in paraphrase "there are other types of trailers to suit the occasion" (my words). Others started with TDs, and upsized later. Others start big. My goal is to get a less cramped space (I admit that the present 4x8 will be too tight for two) with easier access/more storage for necessities (another foot each way would work wonders), so I will upsize next build. But my initial dual-purpose trailer might require a much larger footprint (i.e.: a 5x10 or 6x12 or bigger). Many have used landscape trailers as a start, a couple have converted toyhauler platforms, and many have enclosed cargo trailer conversions. I might just go all the way, and convert my 18ft dovetail carhauler/utility trailer to a camper (with a removable cabin). The trailer is 7ft between the fenders and has 4 brakes on the two 3500lb axles. With a diamond-plate steel floor over treated wood, I can pretty much put anything on it. Why not a removable, sealed cabin, with a rear entry (taller, over the dovetail)? Using a couple of rails underneath the cabin, riding on heavy duty keel rollers (like on a boat trailer), it could be rolled on and off the platform, and locked in situ, or placed on (built-in) stabilizer jacks at home. Self-contained and sealed for off-trailer storage. This is my "possible" next project (the 4x8 TTT will still be used for individual excursions). For the TnTTT Anniversary project, downsize this to fit a 5x10 landscape trailer,

5x10 rails.jpg (54.45 KiB) Viewed 1526 times

using keel rollers on the rails,

rail mounted roller.jpg (38.25 KiB) Viewed 1526 times

built along the lines of a slide-in truck camper (sides extending out over the rails),

rear entry slide in camper.jpg (48.58 KiB) Viewed 1526 times

and of course using all the "consensus" build upgrades from the forum. Foam insulation, solar panels, built-in water, heat, A/C, and toilet. And don't leave out the storage space for DOs, Colemans, and bicycles. And with a nod to the traditionalists: aluminum skinned (in appearance, at least), with a rounded aero profile (TD's started that way).

[clermont cubby]

Mike:

How about a Euro classic style tiny trailer?

isetta_a_karavan.jpg (25.93 KiB) Viewed 1519 times

Larry

[mikeschn]

So now I am hearing that teardrops are too small, that the 10th Anniversary design should be a small trailer.

Okay, go to this poll, and tell me what size teardrop/tiny travel trailer we should be designing...
http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=58281

Mike...

[jstrubberg]

I've done air conditioning several ways...

1) in the galley, with the ac at the foot of the bed. It didn't work well until I opened up the air flow around it. And of course I have to leave the hatch open to run it.


2) on the shelf of the cabin, vented out the side. This worked the best! Maybe I need to put this arrangement on the floor of the galley.


3) Popped it out the side. This worked pretty good too, but there's really not enough room in a TD to do this.


4) Tried a top only vent, but it didn't work well. Added a side vent, and it worked as good as #2


5)Tried a roof mounted AC. Worked well, but very noisy.


6) Pulled off the top mount and put it in the front. It worked well, but it leaked everytime I drove in the rain.


7) Tried a rear vented mount up high. It worked well, but it was noisy because I slept under it. It was also hard to keep the drain clear.


8 ) Tried a rear vented mount, similar to the side vented mount (#3). It should have worked good, but putting it in a box tampered with the thermostat, and it never cooled right. Cutting the box away improved the cooling, but I am still working on this one.


In addition I am thinking about the way Rayvillian did it, mounted on the tongue, with a duct feeding the cool air up into the cabin.


Which way sounds best to you guys?

Mike...

I'm actually a fan of the way Shadow Catcher handled the AC problem. I know it's a bit more fabrication, but...

1. It will work in absolutely ANY design.

2. It takes up zero floorspace

3. It moves 90% of the noise out of your trailer.

4. Since you are already providing a vent, you can position them where they will provide the most comfort, not where you have space for the unit.

[mikeschn]

I'm actually a fan of the way Shadow Catcher handled the AC problem. I know it's a bit more fabrication, but...

1. It will work in absolutely ANY design.

2. It takes up zero floorspace

3. It moves 90% of the noise out of your trailer.

4. Since you are already providing a vent, you can position them where they will provide the most comfort, not where you have space for the unit.

You're right. That is a very elegant solution!

And for those of you who don't remember, here's the link to Shadowcatcher's solution: viewtopic.php?p=835690#p835690



Mike...

[rand_98201]

So Im a lurker for the most part on this site.I am trying to read through all of your guys build threads and info and piece together what I would like to build.I keep coming back to a standie or small canned ham size trailer.I dont know if thats what you were really going for or not.As far as AC goes what about these have you guys used these much?.......http://www.climaterightair.com/rv-trail ... nd-heating.