Circular Saw Question

[VijayGupta]

Some good advice above. My add-ons and reinforcements:
- A good blade, preferably carbide-tipped
- A good brand such as DeWalt, Makita, Bosch, Milwaukee. I have a Porter-Cable, but they've been bounced around enough they now aim lower. Black and Decker, Craftsman, Ryobi and the Skil sidewinders are all for the very occasional user. A cynical view would be they sell to people who don't know better. Hitachi and Ridgid generally tend to be somewhere in the middle, though it depends on the item, sometimes, they are good offerings. Not sure where "Rockwell" is. It was an old brand name (pre-1970s) that has been rebranded.
- DeWalt, Triton, and Festool all make track saws. All very nice, but in the price range of a mid-quality table saw. It would be hard to me to justify the cost of these, since the majority of my work I do on a table saw, miter saw, or band saw (all of which I already have). These are undoubtedly fine tools, whether or not they are that much better to command two to three times the price (especially for someone that doesn't make money using them), is another question.
- Decide on a worm-drive or side-winder. When I last shopped, I picked up a worm drive and felt a muscle in my back pull. I decided I didn't want to use one much after that. They are very popular on the west coast USA for some reason. They are powerful, but heavy. Though my side-winder has the blade on the left, which I chose so that I could see the cut without having to peer over.

[Micro469]

Thanks for all the replies. Looks like I'm going to have to buy a new saw. Leaning towards a Dewalt or a Bosch, I've always had good luck with those brands. I've looked at Makita, but their past performance just seems to linger... Oh it's also a good thing to check your blade once in a while......13 of the 24 carbide tips were broken.....

[working on it]

If you need to make long, straight cuts I recommend the Kreg Rip Cut tool that attaches to a circular saw. I used it to make the cabinets in my trailer and the cuts were square and accurate. I would never have been able to do that freehand.

Wow! that Rip cut tool looks to be what I needed for my trailer build. I have fought with my cheap table saw for years, with a guide that won't stay in place, and when using my circ saw trying to cut plywood, having to clamp straight edges to it, to keep the cut along a line. Not to mention the fancy saw blade I bought (with special teeth and relief cuts in its' design-"to ease it thru plywood")...it would start straight, then make a radical veer to the side. My next tool purchase will be that Kreg. And the Kreg tool video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAeWKBJpjUg shows the same circular saw I use, so that's a plus (for me), and finally a use for foam board that makes sense (ha,ha...just kidding foamies!).

[Mojave Bob]

I cut my teeth in home construction on the west coast, where the Skil worm gear saw is very popular on the job site. I have used them many, many times, and will never own one. They are simply way too dangerous. First, they are too heavy, which may not be a problem on the ground, but is definitely a problem when working from a ladder. But, the major problem is that the worm gear slows the blade down too much. This is why they are so powerful - low RPM, high torque. However, on longer cuts, and especially when ripping a board or cutting wet or pressure-treated lumber, the blade isn't spinning fast enough to throw the saw dust clear of the blade guard. The blade guard then clogs up with wood shavings, and then it doesn't close fully at the end of the cut. I have seen it happen a hundred times, and I know more than one contractor with a big scar on his leg, from lowering the saw when the blade guard was stuck open. No thanks.

Porter Cable sort of pioneered the BladeOnTheLeft saws back in the 1980s, with the SawBoss. It was a dandy little 5-1/2" circular saw. It had great balance, great power, and you could see the blade easily when using it in your right hand. The 5-1/2" blade could cut 45 degree angles in 2x lumber, and therefore met the need for 99% of all job-site cuts. I have had one since they first came out, and it has been fantastic. However, for the last couple of years, I can no longer find the blades. The new style of 5-1/4" and 5-1/2" blades are for cordless saws, and are thinner. Most of them have a smaller arbor, as well. I assume that Porter Cable quit making these blades after one of their ownership transfers. It is a pity -- I have my favorite saw EVER, in great condition, and can't get blades. Grr...

[Roly Nelson]

If your present table saw has a bunch of side to side play, get rid of it, it's worn out and it isn't worth repairing. There are a number of fine saws available, perhaps at the big-box stores, or elsewhere for about a hundred bucks, give or take. If you do buy a new one, remove the monster 10 inch blade, which sounds like a jet engine, and replace it with a standard, 7 and 1/4", carbide tipped skilsaw blade. The tooth tip speed is much slower and will provide a flawless cut for most sizes of lumber, unless you propose to cut a 45 degree angle on a 2x4, which rarely is necessary. Shop around, and you will find a great replacement table saw, suitable of most normal home-shop needs. Good luck.

So much for table saw info, now a word about portable, blade on the left, saws. This style is my very favorite, and I've been using them for years. I can see the line while cutting, can sharpen wooden stakes while it's being held with the other hand (which can't be done with the high-speed blade on the right kind) and it can even be equipped with a handy hanger-hook, so often needed when cutting roof rafters high in the air. Another advantage is the fact that kick-back in virtually eliminated, since the motor is spinning 90 degrees from the blade rotation. The other style will not only kick back, but can do a backflip if not held securely. So, long live Skilsaw's worm drive marvels.
Roly.....PS, I am also a West-coaster, and I guess that explains it.

[Mary C]

I have decided after really looking at my Black and Decker that I want to get a new saw too. but after talking to a wood worker who also broken his wrist said he bought a left handed saw because he wanted to see where he was sawing and he could handle the weight better. So...I looked at one small and battery driven but WOW, I was so totally surprised about the weight thing and I could see where I was cutting too. So when I get the money I think I will order a left handed saw too.
Just my 2 cents........

Mary C.

[bobhenry]

I saw a lot of reference to saw guides in this thread. I have kept a section of aluminum storm door side rail for years to guide my circular saw straight and true. In fancy plywood I clamp it heavily. In not so fancy wood I have it drilled to screw it into the waste area of the sheet. Makes a great and cheap circular saw guide.

[GerryS]

Cabt beat it. I don't need a panel saw to make finish ready.
cuts. A guide, the saw, dust collector and a sheet of pink foam on a flat surface and I can break down a 4x8 in a few minutes. No wrestling with a sheet for trying to find a helper...

I am also never leaning over or near a spinning blade....and no kickback. For the home woodworker, rail saws are an awesome choice

[Micro469]

I saw a lot of reference to saw guides in this thread. I have kept a section of aluminum storm door side rail for years to guide my circular saw straight and true. In fancy plywood I clamp it heavily. In not so fancy wood I have it drilled to screw it into the waste area of the sheet. Makes a great and cheap circular saw guide.

That's a great idea!! Most store bought guides come in 4' lengths, and when you join them warp in the middle...(don't ask me how I know...) Trying to find an 8' straight guide that is actually straight....That's a challenge!!