Air conditioning install?

[ibbowhunting]

Works well

so I read your post on the build just wondering if you have gotten feed back from others that tried larger ducting without the fan, did it work for them? also in hinded site the inline fan you installed is there better fan that would not need to be slowed down due to noise/cfm something with a lower cfm/rpm to start with

again nice post on your a/c install

[Shadow Catcher]

Bear in mind I started this as an experiment and as far as I know no one else had tried this, so it is what it is, and it works.
There is some one now working on a larger duct size, others have done it using 4". I chose the bilge blower because it was available and water proof and I got it used off of Ebay cheap.
There were a couple of other reasons, easy availability of parts and I use the same ducts with an Eberspacher heater

[Socal Tom]

I'm working on the larger duct plan. But it may be several months before I can adequately test it. Little guys trailers uses a similar 4 inch duct system for the add on ac .
Tom

[anon1]

Hello,

I've been thinking about mounting the a/c in a box completely inside with the rear of the a/c flush with the side of the camper and have a door in the sidewall that opens to allow some air in, around, and out the back of the a/c unit.

Then, possibly, to kill two birds with one stone, duct one of the cold air outlets backwards into the box to provide more air into the top and side inlets for cooling the a/c unit as well as cut down the amount of conditioned air going into the camper preventing short-cycling.

Guess you would need to keep a window open some to provide for the 1/2 of the conditioned camper air that is being sent out the side.

[daveesl77]

Shadow Catcher, your design is exactly what I'm borrowing for my build, it makes perfect sense. Since I haven't even gotten to that part yet, do you think that going 4" is a better idea? If so, then that is what I'll test with. I do like the idea of using the bilge blower and I have a couple of 6" inline duct fans that I previously used when I had my house AC set up into zones (parents lived with us), so I may use those. If you think going even larger than 4" is better, then I'll try that. Don't mind experimenting with this build.

dave

[Shadow Catcher]

Dave I have no idea if larger is better, as I have said there were constraints I was under. A local HVAC company built the adapter and 4" was all that will fit easily for the outlet with out some internal gyrations. It does not take much addition air flow to over come the icing problem and the bilge blower is running at about half speed.
I am in favor of what ever works.

[Socal Tom]

I have a little experience in HVAC design. As you could see in the chart I posted in the previous thread, increasing the diameter can have a big impact on the flow. I have a feeling that 4 inch would probably be fine if it were smoother and or straighter, or possibly if the return were set up with only one bend. I decided 5 inch should give me enough wiggle room.
Tom

[Java Jack]

Have you looked at the camp inn 560 ac install? It's over the axle on t
He to cabinet venting out the back.

[noseoil]

I spoke with an owner of a Camp Inn 550 ultra last summer. He had the cabin-mounted AC unit which dumps the hot air out the top back & top near the galley. He said his wasn't able to keep up with the heat in hot summer places where they camped, it didn't work very well. I didn't like the way it was confined and the restricted airflow on the outside the way it was set up. Looked like there wasn't enough airflow around the back to allow for a proper heat exchange to work correctly.

That was one reason I decided to go with the mounting location I went to. I think I may have come up with a solution, but I'm still doing a drawing refinement to look at it again after a few more days of thinking.... I'll post it if I think it's a good solution.

[wincrasher]

I think the Little Guys use an air conditioner that sits next to the trailer and plugs into the permanently installed inlet and outlet.
But, it is stored and transported separate from the TD.
??????????????
Brian

the pictures of new ones show a/c unit in the bulkhead of the galley I believe ? and I also seen in a walk around video an a/c vent on both sides

That is correct and it works extremely well. You have to leave a space behind the unit for the cooling fins, and well as route the condensate to drip below the trailer. Little Guy puts in a little DC blower on a switch and ducts the space behind the unit to two exterior dryer type vents. I show it a bit in my review video: https://youtu.be/2zbG5o4tDbw

[dvanncvann]

This is what I used. Works extremely well.
http://www.climaterightair.com/climater ... eater.html

[plectrudis]

Hi dvann--

I'm pondering AC options right now, and the ClimateRight is one of the ones I'm considering, though I'm not nuts about the price. I had been thinking of the CR5000 unit, as I live in TX and need my AC to have some serious mojo in the summer.

How long have you had your CR2500? And which part of the country do you live in? Do you have any reservations about the CR2500's ability to keep your trailer cool in the worst of the summer? It would be nice to save the $100 or so and buy the smaller (but still pricy ) unit, if that's feasible.

Also, did you put it in any kind of box or just leave it exposed on the tongue? I've been brainstorming as hard as I can, but I can't seem to come up with a solution that isn't (a) a pain to build, and (b) heavy, or else (c) leaves the unattractive ductwork exposed, which I'd rather hide. Any tips (and pix!) you can share from your experience would be much appreciated!

[Shadow Catcher]

We had the PetCool version of the Climate right and it did not have enough coolth for our 400 cubic foot 1.5 foam insulation tear. And the price was too high.
I even insulated the hose. Knowing what I know how I could have done ours for less than $200.

[Socal Tom]

Does anyone have a picture of a climate right with the cover off? You can buy the hoses and flanges at a reasonable price on their site. Hacking a 5k unit could get you a $200 diy version. I'm curious to see the inside to see if they did something g to make it work better with 4 inch hoses.
Tom

[Shadow Catcher]

The original Pet Cool had an 80mm hose (I still have two of them). There is btw a 5000 btu version.
The Manual is herehttps://system.netsuite.com/core/media/media.nl?id=307703&c=3505693&h=db9795777b56894e1b0a&_xt=.pdf
Unfortunately no internal diagrams or pictures.

Now tell me how this

Differs from this.