Air Conditioner Location Ideas

[Tom&Shelly]

We're using a Climateright and here is what I'm planning:



That's our "utility room" in the front of the teardrop. The bulkhead (aka, our headboard) is one and a half inches thick, skeletonized foam, which hopefully cuts down a little on the noise of the unit. (At ~70 lbs, It's too heavy for us to want to move it outside.) There will also be a barrier directly above the AC unit, of similar thickness.

We will have utility doors on the front and side, and the one on the front will be on gas struts, so they will be left open to ventilate the AC.

I haven't screwed the plates into the bulkhead yet, this was just a test fit to see how the duct will run.

So the guy in the video mentioned the holes should be 16" apart. Ours are only 6" apart, because I couldn't figure out a better way to do it. We will test it like this, and also with the return duct left off, so the AC gets air from the outside (and we have a vent to the outside).



I have to cut these to fit (of course) and we will use closing louvered covers. Maybe with them directed in opposite directions it will work with the return duct.

The Climateright has a drain hose at the bottom, and I'll drill a hole. I'm wondering about the output duct collecting condensate, but it will be a few years before we travel to a humid enough climate to test that one.

Tom

[redbicycle]

I have a climaterite and I am fighting with it myself right now. The first attempt I did was to try and put my intake and return (Air conditioned/inside air) through my headboard. The first time I turned it on I knew it needed immediately to be moved. I didn't notice until the trailer was enclosed completely and I was working with the very small interior space how much noise the vent itself makes. The AC pushing so much air through the small vent created a very noisy blower sound. I knew I couldn't sleep with that.

I moved it to the back of my trailer and I had the return air exit the trailer on the side and the intake entered the trailer from the back into a storage compartment. I put 3 3" vents in the compartment. The goal here was the storage compartment would act like a duct and allow the air to expand into it and reduce the noise. This worked great for noise but I kept getting E3 error codes. E3 = coil freezing. My next step was to raise the Climateright off the ground to reduce some of the hose length and number of bends. I still was getting E3 error codes.

My last change was to move the ducts again. I used the existing intake to be the new return air. Now the air is being pulled from the trailer into the storage compartment through the 3" vents and out the 3" hose. I put a new intake about 6" above the existing hose for my new conditioned air into the trailer. I am now back to having the air intake be a single 3" vent that is again noisy but it is at the back of the trailer instead of directly over my head. I have tested it a few times but I have not taken it camping yet to see if this will throw E3 error codes. I also insulated my hoses with foam insulation hoping that will help.

I haven't solved my problem yet, nor confirmed that maybe I have a faulty unit. Additionally I replaced the white hoses with standard RV sewer hoses. The white hoses are 3.3" and the RV sewer hoses are 3" so there is some potential air flow restrictions that I have caused because of this. I have seen RV hoses used before so I am not the pioneer of that idea. My current setup has a straight 24" hose for the conditioned air and a straight 24" hose for the return air. The return air has a slight bend in it because it rises about 4" across the distance.

Hopefully your plan works straight away. My next project is to fill/epoxy and paint three extra holes I have in my trailer now. I hope your plan works as intended. I like the idea you are putting together. BTW be sure to read about how "AUTO" mode works. It didn't work the way I thought it would and it will save you some time figuring out why it isn't working as you may think it should.

[Atomic77]

You should have used a through the wall AC. Everything is in the rear. No ducting, no fans or holes in the floor.

But a hole in the wall, right?

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[Tom&Shelly]

I have a climaterite and I am fighting with it myself right now. The first attempt I did was to try and put my intake and return (Air conditioned/inside air) through my headboard. The first time I turned it on I knew it needed immediately to be moved. I didn't notice until the trailer was enclosed completely and I was working with the very small interior space how much noise the vent itself makes. The AC pushing so much air through the small vent created a very noisy blower sound. I knew I couldn't sleep with that.

I moved it to the back of my trailer and I had the return air exit the trailer on the side and the intake entered the trailer from the back into a storage compartment. I put 3 3" vents in the compartment. The goal here was the storage compartment would act like a duct and allow the air to expand into it and reduce the noise. This worked great for noise but I kept getting E3 error codes. E3 = coil freezing. My next step was to raise the Climateright off the ground to reduce some of the hose length and number of bends. I still was getting E3 error codes.

My last change was to move the ducts again. I used the existing intake to be the new return air. Now the air is being pulled from the trailer into the storage compartment through the 3" vents and out the 3" hose. I put a new intake about 6" above the existing hose for my new conditioned air into the trailer. I am now back to having the air intake be a single 3" vent that is again noisy but it is at the back of the trailer instead of directly over my head. I have tested it a few times but I have not taken it camping yet to see if this will throw E3 error codes. I also insulated my hoses with foam insulation hoping that will help.

I haven't solved my problem yet, nor confirmed that maybe I have a faulty unit. Additionally I replaced the white hoses with standard RV sewer hoses. The white hoses are 3.3" and the RV sewer hoses are 3" so there is some potential air flow restrictions that I have caused because of this. I have seen RV hoses used before so I am not the pioneer of that idea. My current setup has a straight 24" hose for the conditioned air and a straight 24" hose for the return air. The return air has a slight bend in it because it rises about 4" across the distance.

Hopefully your plan works straight away. My next project is to fill/epoxy and paint three extra holes I have in my trailer now. I hope your plan works as intended. I like the idea you are putting together. BTW be sure to read about how "AUTO" mode works. It didn't work the way I thought it would and it will save you some time figuring out why it isn't working as you may think it should.

Thank you for the tips! I don't think we'll want to relocated the AC since I did a weight and balance spreadsheet, and ended up putting the spare tire and batteries in the galley to compensate for the weight. Other than that, we'll be experimenting as you did to see what works.

Tom

[Chasein70]

You should have used a through the wall AC. Everything is in the rear. No ducting, no fans or holes in the floor.

But a hole in the wall, right?

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Yes, a hole in the wall. On my trailer I have a door the opens up on a gas piston. The AC is up high inside a cabinet. I see way to many people have them on the floor which doesn't work. It's 50 on the floor and 90 in your face. Cold air sinks, it doesn't rise.

[Atomic77]

You should have used a through the wall AC. Everything is in the rear. No ducting, no fans or holes in the floor.

But a hole in the wall, right?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Yes, a hole in the wall. On my trailer I have a door the opens up on a gas piston. The AC is up high inside a cabinet. I see way to many people have them on the floor which doesn't work. It's 50 on the floor and 90 in your face. Cold air sinks, it doesn't rise.

Mine is on the floor. Works just fine

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[working on it]

... The AC is up high inside a cabinet. I see way too many people have them on the floor which doesn't work. It's 50 on the floor and 90 in your face. Cold air sinks, it doesn't rise.

*Before I started my trailer build, I perused many build journals and saw that many TD and TTT builders placed their A/C windowshakers either on the floor, or barely above mattress level, with the airflow pretty-much cooling head or toes of the occupants while in bed. And, after I started camping with my TTT, I observed in-person many trailers with A/C's mounted within inches of the person's head or feet, within the cramped confines of most all the smaller trailers. Even more problematic, some A/C's had their filter/air re-circulation intake blocked by the mattress or pillow, so that can't be good for the efficiency of the A/C?

*Though nothing helps me sleep better than having an A/C running nearby (I love the sound, and appreciate cool air to breathe!), I really didn't like the idea of frozen face or feet after 8 hours of rest. So, I mounted my A/C up high, to be able to avoid frostbite, and added a circulating fan to augment the flow pattern I desired. Works like a charm!

though mounted high-up on wall, the manual controls of this LG unit are easily reachable while in bed

high-mounted AC on rear bulkhead.jpg (149.72 KiB) Viewed 2063 times

front overhead shelf has openings to aid airflow, and also utilize swing-away computer case fans mounted over the sidewall vents

front slope shelf, 11-inch fan, air return.jpg (240.03 KiB) Viewed 2063 times

air circulation theory

warm air rising up and out.jpg (208.41 KiB) Viewed 2063 times

[tony.latham]

Here's our air conditioner:




Up here at 45º north, we dither on where to put a heater. I'm pleased that an air conditioner isn't needed in the Rockies.



Tony

[Chasein70]

Mine is on the floor. Works just fine

I doubt that!!!! That defies the laws of physics. Cold air does NOT rise. I've tried putting an AC on the floor and it does not work.

[Atomic77]

Mine is on the floor. Works just fine

I doubt that!!!! That defies the laws of physics. Cold air does NOT rise. I've tried putting an AC on the floor and it does not work.

Hm. That's strange. Used it all last summer and had outdoor temps over 90° in July. Maybe I just imagined it was comfortable and cool inside!

The Astroliner. Defying the laws of physics... and beyond!

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[Chasein70]

Cold air does NOT rise.

[EZ]

I have a 5000 btu Frigidaire unit that works great. My camper is 120 sq ft and roughly 600 cu ft. July 4th weekend it was high 90's for 4 straight days. It kept the coach between 70-75°. Mine is built in a cabinet, with the rear exhaust ducted into the floor. Out of sight and out of mind with no obvious exterior vents, etc.



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Michael, I am super interested in the idea of mounting a 5000BTU AC in a cabinet and ducting it out the floor. I don't completely understand how the airflow would work. You said it vents out the bottom and cool air (fresh air?) comes via a computer fan. Can you elaborate on that design; sounds like the best installation method to me. And how do you keep rain spray from entering from underneath?

Also, if the AC is bringing cool air into the camper, it will eventually fill the box; the 90 degree air will just vent out the top vent or be cooled I assume. AC on the floor will indeed turn a small insulated camper into a refrigerator I am sure..... The idea that cold air will not rise is like saying hot air will not fall - then no need for AC at all, just stay low!

Ed

[Tom&Shelly]

Up here at 45º north, we dither on where to put a heater. I'm pleased that an air conditioner isn't needed in the Rockies.



Tony

That was our original plan! Then my family in Upstate New York suggested that, as long as we were camping over the Summers anyway, we should go and see them. A quick look at the map revealed we would have to travel through hot and humid places in the late Spring to get there, which led to the AC. That led to a need for a connection to shore power, and also added weight to the teardrop. The latter led to us buying a Tacoma to use as a TV instead of the Wrangler. Classic mission creep!

Tom

[tony.latham]

Classic mission creep!

T

[Modstock]

Before I built our cabinets, we had the a.c. through the wall and just cracked the hatch .
Worked awesome, but after going through 3 a.c. units. In a few years.
I took em apart and all 3 had broken a.c. lines because of the bouncy trailer ride. Tried different ways of mounting (hard and boxing in with foam)
Fed up, im now using a fan.
I have a few ideas im brewing up in the future.

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