Building the Generic ET

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Postby Mstro » Mon Aug 11, 2008 9:34 am

Looks like your getting thing ready for a final exterior finish, any idea as to what color the finish will be? :thumbsup:
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Postby mikeschn » Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:46 am

The plan is to use a white Uniflex 255. Could that plan change? Possible, if I can talk my buddy into shooting some Pearl white auto paint on it...

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Postby cuyeda » Mon Aug 11, 2008 4:52 pm

mikeschn wrote:The plan is to use a white Uniflex 255. Could that plan change? Possible, if I can talk my buddy into shooting some Pearl white auto paint on it... Mike...


I like this part of the discussion... What additional preparation would it take to lay on auto paint? So Mike has 1 coat of CPES on the exterior, filled the screw holes or voids with epoxy filler. What would be the next steps to paint the outside using auto paint. My "guess" is compatible primer, base coat paint, top coat paint, then clear. Where is Doug Hodder when we need him. :lol:

It would be great if one of our resident experts could put together a finishing manual someday.
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Postby swissarmygirl » Mon Aug 11, 2008 4:55 pm

cuyeda wrote:It would be great if one of our resident experts could put together a finishing manual someday.


That would be great!
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Postby cuyeda » Mon Aug 11, 2008 4:59 pm

swissarmygirl wrote:That would be great!


You see we have one vote already for the finishing manual. :-)
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Postby mikeschn » Mon Aug 11, 2008 6:18 pm

It looks like my buddy is available to shoot it with auto paint. So I need the finishing manual too!!! :D

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Postby Mstro » Mon Aug 11, 2008 7:47 pm

mikeschn wrote:The plan is to use a white Uniflex 255. Could that plan change? Possible, if I can talk my buddy into shooting some Pearl white auto paint on it...

Mike...


I'll bet a couple of coats of pearl white and a few coats of clear would give some fantastic depth to your finish. :thumbsup:
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Postby Lucky489 » Mon Aug 11, 2008 7:49 pm

Isn't that what Frank did on the Weekender?

mikeschn wrote:It looks like my buddy is available to shoot it with auto paint. So I need the finishing manual too!!! :D

Mike...
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Postby doug hodder » Mon Aug 11, 2008 8:26 pm

I don't use CPES but the epoxy will do the same thing. You want to first seal the wood. The subsequent layers of epoxy will help build up the thickness and smooth out any small divots or deviations in the material. I don't know how well CPES builds up thickness. I usually put on 5-6 coats and sand it out. How much you do depends on just how smooth you want your finish to be. At this point, you can apply bondo if needed or use thickened epoxy with fairing microballoons to do any final body work. If you are doing a woody, you can't do any thickened epoxy, it all has to be built up with clear to really give it that thick deep appearance.

Shoot it with primer, especially if you used any bondo. On top of the primer, you can do any spot putty work to touch up any small dimples or spots that may show. Spot putty is like really thick primer, it goes on with a thin spatula. Sand, then prime or seal those spots so you can shoot paint on it. If you are going to shoot a light color coat, you can do a light colored seal coat over the primer to help with the color coat coverage. Try to get a primer that is going to be as close to your color as possible. Don't try to shoot a white paint over a red oxide primer as it will take plenty of paint. Then you can shoot clear over the color coat. Depending on whose paint system you use and your temperatures, you typically have like 24 hours to get the clear on. Longer than that and you are going to have to prep the new paint before you shoot clear.

If you want, and don't have a bunch of bondo or putty, you can shoot automotive acrylic urethane directly over scuffed epoxy with no problem, no primer is required. Any putties are going to require primer.

Thing is....like I've mentioned in previous threads, how smooth your final finish comes out just depends on how much time and effort you put into your pre-paint work. You can certainly do it with only like 1 or 2 coats of epoxy, it won't be nice and flat however. Automotive paint won't hide poor prep work and it can be an expensive lesson. Not the time to cut a corner. Also pearls can be added to the clear and there are a lot of them available, it can be purchased by the gram and you can add as much or as little as you want to doctor up your own tint.

Hope this makes sense, I'm still at the store and had a load of people interrupt me. Sort of the short version. Doug
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Postby mikeschn » Tue Aug 12, 2008 3:55 am

Lucky489 wrote:Isn't that what Frank did on the Weekender?

mikeschn wrote:It looks like my buddy is available to shoot it with auto paint. So I need the finishing manual too!!! :D

Mike...


Frank didn't use pearl white. He used White white. It was real pretty though, and super smooth too!

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Postby mikeschn » Tue Aug 12, 2008 3:58 am

Thanks for the mini manual Doug. I'm going to forward that to my buddy.

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Postby ARKPAT » Tue Aug 12, 2008 4:14 am

Depending on the paint used and what the manufacture said. I have used a color ( metal-flake ) and clear ( 50% / 50 % ) mix for a color to clear transision to clear coat. Make sure everything is perfect during that coat because there is no going back after that. You mess it up and you will have to sand until you are back to color coat to recover or shoot a coat of color on top and do the mix again. It really makes for a DEEP metal-flake color after you shoot a couple of coats of clear. 8)

I have done it several times in the past and was amazed to the depth of metal-flake and clear gives DEPTH to a finish. ;)

:thumbsup:

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Postby mikeschn » Tue Aug 12, 2008 4:32 am

Doug,

Where do I get the epoxy, and what kind is it? Do local stores carry it?

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Postby angib » Tue Aug 12, 2008 6:00 am

doug hodder wrote:Automotive paint won't hide poor prep work and it can be an expensive lesson.

So true. The guy that built this tear didn't usually work with wood and he tried painting ply as though it were metal:

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I seem to remember that he reckoned the paint had cost more than the all the rest of the tear put together.

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Postby doug hodder » Tue Aug 12, 2008 8:24 am

Mike, I use West System epoxy a quick google shows plenty of places to get it from. The manufacturer is Gougeon Bros in Bay City MI. I've also found it rarely on sale at West Marine. When it is, I buy a couple of gallons of it cause it may be up to 40% off. I don't know about any of the other epoxy systems out there, I'd imagine that they are pretty much alike. Doug
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