Alto Winter Warrior now with plans

[rrawlings]

Well tonight I pressed the scroll into service

[laoutdoorsman]

now, that a small camper..

[rrawlings]

well I couldn't start the real thing for another two weeks or so. And you know how anticipation is. I will over the next couple of days hinge the lid build a frame and put it behind a 1:24 scale dies cast. I just couldn't help myself

[mikeschn]

I've created a dxf if anyone else would like to cnc cut the sides. Just email or pm me, and I'll send it to you.

Mike...

P.S. So what's next?
Bass?
Baritone?
Tenor?
Alto (or Contralto)?
Mezzo Soprano?
Soprano?

[Carter]

Mike,
You are a maniac. I'm impressed. Just email me updated drawings. Now just to stir the pot. How are you going to get any ventilation through those round windows? They spin to open? screens? An inquiring mind wants to know. don't see a rectangle or rounded rectangle window in the plan

PS. working on an alternate frame drawing from 4:30 to 5:00 am with my coffee. I'm in way too deep.

Been thinking about a light steel frame for the upper with aluminum skin, foam filler, Formica or other composite inside surface. Many of the Cargo trailers use that construction without the Formica. Lightweight, pretty good R value for the thickness, and weight reduction over plywood. Based it all on a Snowmobile trailer I see on the way home from work. Again, I am in way too deep.

Jim

[mikeschn]

Jim,

Are you going to build an Alto WW for yourself? You could you know!!!

Like I mentioned eariler, I'm counting on you to ask me all the tough questions. I may not know the answers, but it'll certainly give me something to think about.

Ventilation... opps... so far I have a roof vent, (not in the model yet), and a 15x30 window above the kitchen table. You're right, it's not enough. I need a window in the back wall... and... and... and...

Do you know anyone who can cnc cut some wood sides? I have a guy in N.C., but I don't want to drive that far if I don't have to.

I can send you the latest step file... check your email in a little bit.

Mike...

Mike,
You are a maniac. I'm impressed. Just email me updated drawings. Now just to stir the pot. How are you going to get any ventilation through those round windows? They spin to open? screens? An inquiring mind wants to know. don't see a rectangle or rounded rectangle window in the plan

PS. working on an alternate frame drawing from 4:30 to 5:00 am with my coffee. I'm in way too deep.

Been thinking about a light steel frame for the upper with aluminum skin, foam filler, Formica or other composite inside surface. Many of the Cargo trailers use that construction without the Formica. Lightweight, pretty good R value for the thickness, and weight reduction over plywood. Based it all on a Snowmobile trailer I see on the way home from work. Again, I am in way too deep.

Jim

[mikeschn]

Added the window above the table...



Mike...

[RAYVILLIAN]

Mike If you put your outside access door in the back instead of the sides you can leave the traingles ridge They'll slide down the inside of the wall.

Gary

[mikeschn]

Gary,

I saw that in one of your Moby models... I've not tried it out on the Alto WW yet though.

Mike...

[mikeschn]

Been thinking about a light steel frame for the upper with aluminum skin, foam filler, Formica or other composite inside surface. Many of the Cargo trailers use that construction without the Formica. Lightweight, pretty good R value for the thickness, and weight reduction over plywood. Based it all on a Snowmobile trailer I see on the way home from work. Again, I am in way too deep.

Jim

Do you have a tube bender? If so, I can see a lightweight roof in your future!!!



Mike...

[Carter]

No tube bender but I have a mallet and can get some hardwood blocks. Never tried tubing that way but have done lots of brass DLO moldings.

We have a mill at work big enough to do the whole trailer in 3d but of course using it is not appropriate. I know lots of local businesses that could CNC the sides but not sure of the cost. I'll ask around.

Jim

[angib]

For CNC cutting of plywood, you may have success asking companies that normally use their water-jet cutter on granite or marble, like for kitchen work-tops (US: counter-tops?).

I know the idea of water on bare ply will scare some folks, but I've used MDF that's been cut by water-jet with no trouble and you know what a sponge MDF is.

Andrew

[Wig]

mike . I think the your interior has came along way.the last one looks like it would give you the most flexibility.keep those gears a turning.

[rrawlings]

I have a couple of questions for the more experienced builders here. I was planning to do an exterior wall that would be 1/4" ply inside 3/4" 9 ply cabinet plywood for all curves and poplar framing in 3/4"x2.5" pocket screwed together and rigid foam panels filling the space. then 1/8" skin and fiberglass over that. My question is this, is this wall structure going to be rigid enough or do I need to go to 1.5 inch stock instead of 3/4? I will have cabinets on both inner walls that extend 36" from floor line that will give me the strength needed there, I just wonder about the other 36 inches or so above that. And does anyone see a difficulty with putting a steel tube structure of 3/4" tubing buried in both side walls at the front to support bunks? I was envisioning a ladder type structure sandwiched in with nuts inserts to bolt the hardware inside the trailer. Any feedback would be appreciated.

Robert

[Wolfgang92025]

Robert,

Don't know if I qualify as an experienced builder, but what you described is very close to what my build (in process) is. I used 1/4" on the outside and 1/8" on the inside with 3/4 spacer/insulation. I know you will not have any problems with 3 feet of wall without a lot of support. Your wall design is basically a torsion box and will be quite strong.
The thickness of the wall will not make a big difference in strength, only "R" value for insulation.

Just my opinion.........

Wolfgang