Sidewall location.....

[suzart24]

Hi there, all you creative minds out there.
I thought that title might get your attention! After all, what other location would you put the sidewalls of your TD.....but the sides?

Well, here's my question......
I'm building my first TD. A generic Benroy, 5x8. But, being an artist, I can't just stay in the box....No pun intended....
I'm using 3/4" sidewalls and most of the builds I see, drop the sidewalls down the sides to cover the frame. As I see it, interior space in these things is at a premium and this will drop my ceiling by 3", as I have a 3" tall frame rail.
I'm thinking about sacrificing an 1 1/2" in bed width by trimming off 3/4" on each side of my floor and allowing the sidewalls to rest on the edge of the frame.
My floor build is 2" thick and I can glue & screw my sidewalls to this and gain 3" in ceiling height.
Then, when my build is complete, I plan to run a 8" or so, band of aluminum diamond plate around the bottom to cover the frame rails and add an accent that I can repeat on my Jeep tow vehicle.

Does this make sense or should I go ahead and drop my walls to the bottom of the frame rails?

Thank you for your time and opinions.......Doug

[jstrubberg]

Ceiling height isn't usually a consideration in a teardrop. Unless you are abnormally tall, you aren't going to miss the 3 inches.

But why not have the best of both worlds? Cut the sidewalls 3 inches taller and forge ahead!

[suzart24]

Ceiling height isn't usually a consideration in a teardrop. Unless you are abnormally tall, you aren't going to miss the 3 inches.

But why not have the best of both worlds? Cut the sidewalls 3 inches taller and forge ahead!

That would mean finding plywood that's at least 51" in width. I'm an old sign painter and I know I could get some, but don't need the expense on my first build.
It's amazing, all the ideas that are flashing through my mind as I work on this project......Not all, having to do with the TD, either......

[RandyG]

Lifting the floor has some advantages, you'll gain the height and the end grain will be tucked away. Just make sure the walls are attached to something solid. What is your floor made of?

[suzart24]

Lifting the floor has some advantages, you'll gain the height and the end grain will be tucked away. Just make sure the walls are attached to something solid. What is your floor made of?

My floor is 1/2" plywood, framed underneath with 2x4s. So, I will have 2" of material to glue and screw my walls to. the floor will be bolted to the frame with 3/8" bolts, around the perimeter.

[jstrubberg]

Hrm,

When you say Putting the walls on top of the floor, wouldn't that put you trying to screw into the end grain of the wall to secure it? Plywood is pretty notorious for not holding a screw put in that way.

Can you bring the wall up level with the bottom of the floor assembly and still gain some height?

[TPMcGinty]

I used a 2x4 frame with 1/2 inch plywood top and bottom for my floor. After I attached the floor to the trailer, I rested the 3/4 inch plywood walls on top of the trailer frame edge and fastened the walls to the 2 inches of floor the stuck up above the trailer frame. It worked very well. It also gave me 60 inches in interior width which allowed me to put a full queen size mattress inside.

[suzart24]

Hrm,

When you say Putting the walls on top of the floor, wouldn't that put you trying to screw into the end grain of the wall to secure it? Plywood is pretty notorious for not holding a screw put in that way.

Can you bring the wall up level with the bottom of the floor assembly and still gain some height?

I'm putting the walls on the top, outside edge, of the trailer frame and agains the side of my floor structure. I would be screwing into the 1 1/2" side of the 2x4s that my 1/2" plywood floor is screwed & glued to.

[suzart24]

I used a 2x4 frame with 1/2 inch plywood top and bottom for my floor. After I attached the floor to the trailer, I rested the 3/4 inch plywood walls on top of the trailer frame edge and fastened the walls to the 2 inches of floor the stuck up above the trailer frame. It worked very well. It also gave me 60 inches in interior width which allowed me to put a full queen size mattress inside.

That's exactly what I'm thinking of doing. ThanX for sharing your experience with me.
Great dog, by the way!

[TPMcGinty]

I used a 2x4 frame with 1/2 inch plywood top and bottom for my floor. After I attached the floor to the trailer, I rested the 3/4 inch plywood walls on top of the trailer frame edge and fastened the walls to the 2 inches of floor the stuck up above the trailer frame. It worked very well. It also gave me 60 inches in interior width which allowed me to put a full queen size mattress inside.

That's exactly what I'm thinking of doing. ThanX for sharing your experience with me.
Great dog, by the way!

The photo is of my old lab, Baron. He is no longer with me. I miss him. I now have another Lab (Tucker) and a German Shepard (Gracie). I love dogs but I REALLY LOVE labs! They are big DORKS like me!

[jstrubberg]

Hrm,

When you say Putting the walls on top of the floor, wouldn't that put you trying to screw into the end grain of the wall to secure it? Plywood is pretty notorious for not holding a screw put in that way.

Can you bring the wall up level with the bottom of the floor assembly and still gain some height?

I'm putting the walls on the top, outside edge, of the trailer frame and agains the side of my floor structure. I would be screwing into the 1 1/2" side of the 2x4s that my 1/2" plywood floor is screwed & glued to.

Gotcha!

[les45]

I bolted my 5/8 ply floor directly to the trailer frame and then bolted my 2X4 side rails to the floor leaving a 3/4" ledge for my sidewall to sit on. I wanted my black trailer frame exposed to provide contrast to the yellow body. I used 1.5" lattice strips painted black to cover the exposed edges of the plywood floor. I think the extra 3" of headroom inside the cabin makes a big difference.

[suzart24]

I bolted my 5/8 ply floor directly to the trailer frame and then bolted my 2X4 side rails to the floor leaving a 3/4" ledge for my sidewall to sit on. I wanted my black trailer frame exposed to provide contrast to the yellow body. I used 1.5" lattice strips painted black to cover the exposed edges of the plywood floor. I think the extra 3" of headroom inside the cabin makes a big difference.

ThanX!!
That's exactly what I want to do, except my floor is on top of the 2x4s. Is that 2x4 frame board inside your cab?
I'm sealing the topside with epoxy resin and the underside with HENRY'S black goo.

[les45]

ThanX!!
That's exactly what I want to do, except my floor is on top of the 2x4s. Is that 2x4 frame board inside your cab?
I'm sealing the topside with epoxy resin and the underside with HENRY'S black goo.

Initially, I was going to leave the 2X4s exposed and not insulate the floor. I figured the foam mattress would settle over the 2X4s. I changed my mind later and insulated the thickness of the 2X4 and added luan on top for my actual floor. I used Henry's on the bottom, but I just used old left over house paint to seal the exposed floor inside the cabin. If your cabin is properly waterproofed on the outside, you shouldn't have to epoxy the interior surfaces. You could easily build your floor frame to leave the 3/4 ledge directly on the top of the trailer frame. You can get a better idea of what I did by checking out my build journal in the link below. It has lots of pics.

[Forrest747]

find some 1/8th inch 5x5 baltic birch, glue to the 3/4 that you cut out for teh insulation and doors and trim the excess at teh roof line.