Mounting a Jockey wheel

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Mounting a Jockey wheel

Postby Kody » Sat Aug 03, 2013 2:54 am

Hi fellas,
I am at the stage where I can now finally mount the Jockey Wheel to the "A" frame of the trailer. I am mounting it probably completely different to the normal (?) way. I have made four lugs from 1- 1/2" x 1/2" Steel bar 1- 5/8" long. These have been tapped out to suit some decent bolts and I am now about to weld these lugs to the "A" frame. I very much like the idea of bolting the Jockey Wheel to the frame. I can remove it if I need too should it get damaged or if I want less weight on the towbar or if it gets in the way when towing on outback roads/tracks. However, I don't know what would be the best place to position it. I can mount it on the outside of the frame (looks a bit ugly) or I can mount it on the inside of the "A" frame. I intend to use hydraulic brakes so there will be nothing to foul up with mounting it inside the frame. If I mount it on the inside of the frame, it will be less prone to damage and the wheel itself would be almost on the center-line of the frame. What are your thoughts on this? Has anybody made four lugs and bolted the Jockey Wheel to the frame? I can post some photos tomorrow if you would like to see how I have built this.

Kody
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Re: Mounting a Jockey wheel

Postby Mary C » Sat Aug 03, 2013 4:03 pm

Kody, I am interested in "seeing" I may not be making one, but it sure would keep me from being so dumb ( ignorant) about one. You amaze me doing it the unconventional way . I guess that is why I ended up with gluing instead of using screws and wood.

Mary C. :)
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Re: Mounting a Jockey wheel

Postby Kody » Sun Aug 04, 2013 6:05 am

This shows the jockey wheel mounted on the outside of the 3" x 2" x 1/8" steel frame. The lugs can be seen that will be welded onto the frame. There are four lugs to be welded on. These are tapped out to 12mm. The 12mm x 1.75 bolts are grade 8, ie, high tensile steel. The angled handle is pulled out and the unit is rotated 90 degrees and it is then locked into position with the handle when it is released.
Image[/url][/img]

This is a view with the unit mounted on the inside of the frame. With the clamps removed, it is in danger of falling off.
Image[/URL]

The big decision now is to decide whether to fit the unit on the inside or the outside of the frame. It can be located inside on either side of the two "A" frame beams. There is still plenty of room to fit a fridge/freezer or A/C unit and or a spare tire. The brakes will be hydraulic which will eliminate any fouling with the jockey wheel as there would be if cable brakes were installed. What do you fellas think would be the better position to locate the jockey wheel, inside or outside the frame? I'm leaning towards the inside but the decision is not carved in stone yet. Any info and thoughts would be most appreciated.
Image[/URL]

Kody
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Re: Mounting a Jockey wheel

Postby bc toys » Sun Aug 04, 2013 6:11 am

I vote for inside drivers side :thumbsup: like you care what i think :roll: but we all like advice :shock: :shock:
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Re: Mounting a Jockey wheel

Postby bentrotor » Sun Aug 04, 2013 8:14 am

I vote to put it on the inside because----
1. It puts it closer to the centerline of the trailer (easier to guide when moving it around).
2. Less chance of hitting your leg on it (saves bodily injury).
3. The crank handle will be trapped by the A frame (no chance of it dropping down and getting torn off).

I vote to put it on the passenger side due to the fact that when you get out of the tow vehicle and walk to the trailer you will most likely be on the drivers side ( even in England). This means when you reach down to drop the jack, you will be able to pull the release handle towards you using your hand. If the jack is mounted on the drivers side, to release the jack, you will have to push the release handle most likely with your thumb away from you or reach over and try to pull the release handle away from you (awkward).

My suggestions are based on experience with trailers I have owned, borrowed, used, built, or seen with swing down jacks like you are using.

I don't want to sound like some sort of know it all (I don't) but I will offer what I have found that works or not, what I did or didn't like, or things I have changed over the years.
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Re: Mounting a Jockey wheel

Postby Kody » Sun Aug 04, 2013 5:53 pm

Guday Bentrotor
These were my thoughts exactly. I do appreciate any extra thoughts about something I am not 100% certain about. I do like the fact that the unit will be protected by mounting it inside the frame. I mounted it for the photo on the passenger side so I can pull the handle so much easier from the driver's side. This will be where I will weld it today. I do like being able to remove it by unscrewing the four bolts if I have to and it's extremely unlikely to be ever stolen off the T/D. Mounting on the inside definitely will make it easier to steer when pushing the T/D around. I have seen Jockey wheels that are bolted on with two big "U" bolts but these look so unsightly and in my opinion, detract badly from an engineering position that shows a well thought out way of doing things. I think the worst thing one can do is make your T/D look cheap and nasty by fitting badly designed parts when it has taken so much time and effort to build. However, it all comes back to how one's eye beholds it. Many thanks for your time to reply.

Kody
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Re: Mounting a Jockey wheel

Postby dvardo » Thu Aug 08, 2013 7:21 pm

I second the idea,
Two newbie questions, which would be stronger the weld or the Ubolts?

Why did you decide on the hard wheel instead of a rubber? I keep getting stuck on gravel.
Trying to figure out a way to use a large (8- 12 inch wheel) that would swing up, as the wheel I have like that.
Found a photo like this online, but haven't found any for sale in the USA
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$T2eC16dHJGIFFoVWjJFTBRfGJLEY3!~~48_20[1].JPG
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Re: Mounting a Jockey wheel

Postby working on it » Thu Aug 08, 2013 8:22 pm

Kody wrote: I have seen Jockey wheels that are bolted on with two big "U" bolts but these look so unsightly and in my opinion, detract badly from an engineering position that shows a well thought out way of doing things. I think the worst thing one can do is make your T/D look cheap and nasty by fitting badly designed parts when it has taken so much time and effort to build. However, it all comes back to how one's eye beholds it.
Kody

I understand the concern about unsightly hardware spoiling the looks of anyone's trailer...I think that is an apt observation about some of the works of art that some have created here. Then again, I also see the merits of functionality over form, where needed or if wanted to be shown. In my build, from the start, I knew that function was first (since I have no artistic inclinations or training), and intended for as much hardware as needed to be visible. I like hardware. I like U-bolts in the case of your Jockey wheel...no welds to weaken (a weak weld may not even be visible) and the U-bolts may be checked periodically for firmness and even position-adjusted as needed, without having to cut-away and re-weld if the adjustment is needed. My build may be unsightly or ungainly to some, but to me, it's what I wanted to try in my first stab at TTT building. In your case, whichever way you want to mount it, then it is correct for your application.
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Re: Mounting a Jockey wheel

Postby Kody » Fri Aug 09, 2013 8:08 am

I chose the hard tire because it was not as cumbersome as an inflated tire. It also would never go flat and it was much lighter than an inflated type.
As for the strength of welds verses U bolts, the welded style of fitting is on for keeps. To remove it, it can damage the unit severely and also damage the frame. The strength of an efficient weld is indisputable but a U bolt can provide all the strength and more for what is needed. The choice is an individual one. I chose to use the four small lugs because I can now remove the jockey wheel in one piece and in an undamaged state. The lugs could then be cut off with a 4" angle grinder fitted with a 1mm cutting wheel and the frame ground back to its original form and shape without any harm to the frame. If the U bolts are placed so that the end of the thread protrudes out past the attachment plate, your shins and legs can be very painfully damaged. I do like the way I have now set up the jockey wheel on my trailer. To an observer, it looks very neat and well engineered.

Kody
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Re: Mounting a Jockey wheel

Postby pchast » Fri Aug 09, 2013 3:05 pm

I like the welded tab idea and will copy it. Thanks.
I just need to look for the same grade bolts for
the support.
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Re: Mounting a Jockey wheel

Postby Treeview » Fri Aug 09, 2013 8:44 pm

Kody,

If you haven't struck the arc yet...or thought of this already...if you mount the jack far enough forward the A-tongue will cradle the crank handle. This will keep it from hanging down and snagging on something. That happened on a trailer of mine in the past so I find a way to protect the handle when I mount jacks.

Nicely done!

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