Best ways to insulate, waterproof and seal the floor

[ibbuckshot]

Greetings Y'all,
We are in the process of putting together plans for building a canned ham hauler. My idea is to build an aluminum framed and skinned unit about 61/2 wide X13 TO 14 LONG x 6FT HIGH (INTERIOR). The frame will be made on 16 inch centers. I am in hopes of using some type of waterproof sub floor such as 1/2 inch pressure treated plywood or some type of new waterproof super scientific material that, as of this post, I know nothing about. I want to seal it making it totally waterproof. Here in Florida we have rain from time to time Also I want to make the underside covered to insure a smooth surface to insure the least wind resistance possible. I did a search but found nothing on these subjects. I sure would like your feed back rather then trying to re inventing the wheel. Being (almost) as old as dirt their most likely, are products out there that I don't know about yet. Thank you in advance for your help.

Have fun,
buckshot

[canned o minimum]

I treated /coated my TD with Henry's roofing tar as have countless other TD builders. It is very messy,but seals and protects the undercarriage/floor. As fer smoothness and wind resistance...REALLY? It's not smoothe as glass, but it is quite smoothe when applied. Jus my 2 pennies worth...

[Roly Nelson]

Hi Buckshot, I think 1/2 inch is way over-kill. My woody has a layer of 1/4 inch plywood to conceal the trailer frame. I had truck bed liner (LineX) shot on the whole bottom and fenderwells. Strictly for waterproofing, not so it would slip through the disturbed air easilly behind my hauler. Unless you plan to bolt your TD to the nose of a Saturn rocket, I'd forget about any wind drag problems on the interstates. Somewhere on the board, there is a thread about this very subject. Good luck on your build, take pics and post em.
Roly, the li'l ol' So Cal woody guy

[grant whipp]

I've been using the "roofing tar" to seal the bottoms of my teardrops for over 25 years and never have had a problem ... I recommend it all the time, and personally wouldn't use anything else.

Now, on my 8-1/2' x 25' flatbed haul-any-damn-thing-I-want trailer, I have a full belly pan made out of sheets of .040" aluminum ... yes, it's slick as hell ... does it save anything in milage? I can only tell you that I haven't noticed any difference between pulling it and the previous 25' flatbed I had, made out of a re-cycled/discarded travel trailer ... but I pull with a 7.3L Powerstroke, and there's not much it doesn't like pulling ... ...! The belly-pan looks bitchin, though ... ...!

CHEERS!

[backstrap bandit]

Hey buckshot I too was thinking of skinning the bottom side but not for any reason but hold insulation to floor( I just hate cold floors) and to make cleaning under side easier I'm just gonna cut Aluminum coil stock left over from house job into squares and but up with screws that way if I have any problems with anything under it I can remove it easily

[halfdome, Danny]

I skin my 3/4" plywood floor with plastic laminate (plam) on both sides and use Gorilla Glue to glue the floor to the body.
It's waterproof, smooth & looks great.
HDO (high density overlay) or MDO plywood will work too.
Danny

[ibbuckshot]

Hi Y'all,
I want to thank all you folks for your ideas. I am in hopes of skinning and smoothing the bottom to try to save some fuel and keeping underside cleaner. I use to drive tractor trailer over the road years ago.
I think that anytime I can make something smooth, less wind resistant and more efficient it may end up back in my pocket. I am going to be pulling this camper with a 32 Ford street rod pickup and want to make
it as easy to pull as possible. We want to use the camper to attend the National Street Rod Assoc car shows around the country. I guess the best way to insulate is to use the foam boards from Low's and fill in
what ever little seams and holes with the can spray foam. Thanks again for your ideas. By the way, are there any other folks from the central Florida area on the site?
Have fun,
buckshot

[canned o minimum]

A 32 Ford street rod ??? I pull my 1946 homebuilt,aluminum teardrop with my 1965 VW Beetle. The trailer weighs in at 800lbs, camp ready/loaded. Yer Ford oughta pull the trailer with ease !

[ibbuckshot]

1 Grand,
This project is not a TD it is a caned ham style that will be 6 wide, 61/2 high inside and about 14 long plus the hitch. I am going to be using an old aluminum boat trailer frame that has a
3500 lbs axle with brakes.
Have fun,
buckshot

[floridadon]

buckshot , I live in central Florida ( Weeki Wachee )

[canned o minimum]

O I C ....yer building an "standie"....(TTT) I was cornfused..My little VW wouldn't tow one athem.

[ibbuckshot]

floridadon,
Looks like we are almost neighbors. What kind of unit do you have or are you building one?

[Henery Hawk]

I left my floor exposed pressure treated plywood, thinking it would be better for it to breathe.

By the way I am in Brooksville.

[mrsteve]

[quote="Henery Hawk"]I left my floor exposed pressure treated plywood, thinking it would be better for it to breathe.

Don't leave any slivers of that pressure treated wood in you for very long. They used to treat the wood with cyanide to keep the bugs out. I don't remember what they use now but it's still nasty stuff.

[backstrap bandit]

Actually they use arsnic for treated wood that comes in contact with ground and the other stuff is light green or blueish is salt treated for above ground use and also don't cover treated wood with aluminum the chemicals in the wood will eat thru aluminum